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Discussion Starter #7
Well cool. Hopefully after I inspect it it'll still be in good shape and I'll just have to replace the throw out bearing.
 

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I guess when I take it apart I'll find out if it's a matching clutch disk. How can I tell if it's still a good clutch? I'd like to just replace the TOB and the clutch fork but I'll replace the clutch if I need to.
 

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I guess when I take it apart I'll find out if it's a matching clutch disk. How can I tell if it's still a good clutch? I'd like to just replace the TOB and the clutch fork but I'll replace the clutch if I need to.
Check the surface and make sure it isn't worn down to the rivets that hold the disk material on and that none of the material has cracked or broken off.
Also check your flywheel for evidence of heat discoloration or chatter marks.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
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The flywheel is smooth to the touch but looks to have blue spots. Will resurfacing correct this? The only chips I could find on the disc is the ones in the pics. The pressure plate has blue spots as well. If it needs to be replaced so be it. Looking for opinions.
 

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The flywheel is smooth to the touch but looks to have blue spots. Will resurfacing correct this? The only chips I could find on the disc is the ones in the pics. The pressure plate has blue spots as well. If it needs to be replaced so be it. Looking for opinions.
Yes, resurfacing will remove the marks and give you a flat fresh surface to start with.
The flywheel looks like it needs to be resurfaced.
It looks grooved around the circumference?

The clutch disk itself looks ok. The small chips around the edges are normal and will not hurt anything.

The pressure plate looks pretty good.
If you have a D/A Sander and some 60-80 grit paper for it, it wouldn't hurt to sand it down a bit to remove any minute chatter marks or waves in the surface of the pressure plate contact disk.
Just get the D/A started and keep it moving around the disk, don't stay in one place.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
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Is there anyway to tell if that's the rear main seal or the oil pan? I'm gonna change the RMS anyway but if it's the pan I'm gonna tackle that as well seeing how I have the tranny out.
 

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Is there anyway to tell if that's the rear main seal or the oil pan? I'm gonna change the RMS anyway but if it's the pan I'm gonna tackle that as well seeing how I have the tranny out.
It's kind of hard to tell, but I would suspect the main seal first.
If you do the pan gasket, you will have to unbolt the motor mounts, lift and support the engine to get the pan off. Be sure you replace the pan gasket with a one-piece gasket if you do it.
 

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Upgrade to a light weight fly wheel of you have the cash. My aswell if you have very thing apart
I wouldn't do a lightweight or aluminum flywheel unless you are into road racing. There are no good benefits to be had using them on a drag or street car.
 
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