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Discussion Starter #1
Let the wife drive my car for a week or so got back in and it seems to shift rough when going in to the next gear . Is that the clutch going out? It didn't shift that bAd prior. I have to really try to work the clutch to make it shift as smooth as it did. If it is the clutch how much $ to replace one
 

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Does she know how to properly drive a stick? Your clutch should last a long time so I highly doubt your clutch is going out.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
No , not well at all .

When she got home the other night there was a burnt smell . I didn't see anything under the hood melted or any of the above . When I got in in to drive it next I only felt it in first on slow take offs but it feels like the clutch it skipping or not grabbing . Not sure if that is a good way to explain it.
if I take off quicker it's not really that noticeable.
Not sure what it is just bothers me bc something is not rite .
 

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Sounds like she glazed it pretty good. How many miles on it? Price depends on if you are going to go with the Dual Mass Flywheel style clutch that is in it now ($$$) or convert it to a conventional clutch which IMO is better. Also depends on how much performance you want out of the clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don't really need a performance clutch just somthing to fix it lol.
I wonder how much labor will be ...
It's got 20,000 miles on it also
 

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The factory DMF clutch is probably close to $600 just in parts from Ford.. Just a guess.. The aftermarket is probably gonna run a little more than half of that. Figure 3 to 4 hours labor at $70 to $90 an hour. Aftermarket will eliminate the dual mass flywheel style clutch in it and it will perform better. If you want something high performance for High HP than the aftermarket will cost closer to the OEM pricing.

---------- Post added at 02:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:08 PM ----------

You will have to replace the flywheel too with the aftermarket set up which will add to the cost however.

---------- Post added at 02:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:10 PM ----------

You are probably looking at close to a grand either way unless you are doing it yourself which will probably save you 3 to 4 hundred...

---------- Post added at 02:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:13 PM ----------

I would bring it to Ford and let them diagnose it. Maybe something failed under warranty...
 

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Discussion Starter #9
It would be nice if it was somthing under warranty just don't think I'll be that lucky .
Also how long can I drive it with hot spots or glazed . Don't exactly have a grand . Lol
Thanks for the help
 

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You might even be able to drive it easy and get it feeling good again... Depends on how you drive. Dont beat on it. It might start grabbing again. Might not be glazed at all. Might be the DMF or something wrong. Bring it in anyway. Take a mechanic for a drive.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
pwrby4d said:
You might even be able to drive it easy and get it feeling good again... Depends on how you drive. Dont beat on it. It might start grabbing again. Might not be glazed at all. Might be the DMF or something wrong. Bring it in anyway. Take a mechanic for a drive.
I'll give that a try . Thanks for all the help man
 

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It also wouldn't be the first vehicle to have a slave cylinder go out. Anyone else having problems in the future should always have the dealer take a look if it's under warranty.
 

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pwrby4d said:
The factory DMF clutch is probably close to $600 just in parts from Ford.. Just a guess.. The aftermarket is probably gonna run a little more than half of that. Figure 3 to 4 hours labor at $70 to $90 an hour. Aftermarket will eliminate the dual mass flywheel style clutch in it and it will perform better. If you want something high performance for High HP than the aftermarket will cost closer to the OEM pricing.

---------- Post added at 02:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:08 PM ----------

You will have to replace the flywheel too with the aftermarket set up which will add to the cost however.

---------- Post added at 02:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:10 PM ----------

You are probably looking at close to a grand either way unless you are doing it yourself which will probably save you 3 to 4 hundred...

---------- Post added at 02:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:13 PM ----------

I would bring it to Ford and let them diagnose it. Maybe something failed under warranty...
70 to 90 an hour? You talking about the 80s or now!? Lol
 

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I havent brought a car to a mechanic other than warranty work or a collision in a looooong time. lol. I do my own work. lol

---------- Post added at 06:25 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:21 PM ----------

It also wouldn't be the first vehicle to have a slave cylinder go out. Anyone else having problems in the future should always have the dealer take a look if it's under warranty.
I have been having some issues with my car popping out of gear. very random. 2 times in 2100 miles. It happened with the stock shifter so I put in a SVE/JHR shifter that was in a friends car that he traded his car in and took out. I gotta say the SVE shifter... NO Bueno. At first I loved it but after a while I realized how notchy it was. That was the reason he got rid of it and also because he said when he had it in it grinded in reverse every once in a while. Anyway, It also popped out with the SVE in there within 100 miles so I pulled it out and went back to the stock shifter. I dug how the SVE/JHR/UPR shifter put the shifter up and back a little but it is so notchy, it isn't for me. Already have built cars that drove hard and I dont want this one to be that way.

I have the barton shift bracket in there still. I would not waste money the JHR shifter.
 

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I feel like i can't really get it going from nuetral to first to second..takes me forever. if i do it too fast, it's all jerky. suggestions? I know it comes with feel, but I feel for me to make it smoothe it takes forever!! anyone else have this problem, or am i just a newb man tranny driver. haha tranny.
 

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I've also found this car is slow to drop revs when disengaging the clutch. I can be smoother if I shift slower because it gives the engine a chance to drop revs to match the next gear. Annoys the heck out of me because I prefer to shift a bit faster, but the car likes "slow and lazy." I don't know if it's the factory tune or DMF causing rpms to hold for so long.
 

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is that because of that duel mass fly wheel? idk. i'm getting beat by people that aren't even trying to race me off the line. lol. maybe the tune will help, but i'm gonna first put on the CAI and exhaust and see how i feel before the tune.
 
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