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Discussion Starter #1
I just got my new rims put on, and i must admit, they look nice :) Anyways,
im looking into dropping the front of my car. Maybe about, an inch. So,
Should i just buy springs, or should i just cut em?
 

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Springs are not made to be cut. H&R is the way to go. Along with maximum motorsports suspension. They are made for a specific weight. The lower you drop it like my sportlines the stiffer the spring.
 

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never cut unless you like to bounce around, and make sure you get a camber kit to save your wheel bearings the grief
 

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Js281GT said:
Springs are not made to be cut. H&R is the way to go. Along with maximum motorsports suspension. They are made for a specific weight. The lower you drop it like my sportlines the stiffer the spring.
C-Springs are made to be cut
 

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Springs are not made to be cut my dyin @ss.

C springs were never "made" to be cut.

They were made for a different application and Ford says you can cut them to fit a Stang.

Cut your stock springs. 1/2 coil in the front and 3/4 of a coil in hte back will get you about a 1" drop. If you don't like that then you can always p!ss away your money on the "names" mentioned above.


As for the bouncy comment made by some clueless one above, come drive my Stang and tell me if it bounces.

Steve
 

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Ponycarman said:
Springs are not made to be cut my dyin @ss.

C springs were never "made" to be cut.

They were made for a different application and Ford says you can cut them to fit a Stang.

Cut your stock springs. 1/2 coil in the front and 3/4 of a coil in hte back will get you about a 1" drop. If you don't like that then you can always p!ss away your money on the "names" mentioned above.


As for the bouncy comment made by some clueless one above, come drive my Stang and tell me if it bounces.

Steve
im not questioning you, because i know u know much more about this that i do but, i alwasys heard that utting your springs changed the spring rate. what does it actually do if not?
 

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it does change the spring rate. the spring can not hold near the weight it used too especially on ruff serfices which will make it BOUNCE unless you bought a heavy duty shock which would be as much as springs and then some.alot of people have problems with a popping noise too when they cut there springs from it never setting right. you can pick some used springs for a little over a bill if you look around. i got my pro kit for 110.
 

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cjd10 said:
it does change the spring rate. the spring can not hold near the weight it used too especially on ruff serfices which will make it BOUNCE unless you bought a heavy duty shock which would be as much as springs and then some.alot of people have problems with a popping noise too when they cut there springs from it never setting right. you can pick some used springs for a little over a bill if you look around. i got my pro kit for 110.
i have the prokit, im not worried. but ponycar man has cut prings lowered like 2 inches, with stock c/c plates and dampeners
 

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I have the stock "c/c plates" on my car still and I have no problems what so ever. I think I have about a 2" drop too. Brent and everybody at the Oct 2nd meet saw my car.
 

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i cut my 5.0 when i had it only an inch drop i didnt notice a difference except in the back big time. i lived in chattanooga at the time roads are a little rougher but around turns i could feel my car hopping. if you sat in the back youd notice it too. it feelt like lowering springs with too much sag. looked good though ;)
 

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Yeah, cutting the spring increases the rate. How much? I dunno offhand. I am sure there is a formula out there. If I had a set of stock springs I could measure thier spring rate , cut them and remeasure.

I dunno how accurate comparing the rate of my current 110K + miles cut springs would be to the advertised rate of new uncut springs. Springs can "loosen" up on thier spring rates as they get used, so stock 100K mile springs are probably softer than new springs to begin with.

Now for some info, ANY spring, be it a leaf, coil or torsion bar, needs to have a shock that is rated to control that spring's wheel rate. So any spring that is not the same rate as stock will be mismatched with a stock shock. Not just cut ones. Mismatched shock and spring rates is what causes the hopping mentioned. Especially when the spring rate is considerably higher than the shock rate. If the shock rate is higher then you get a rough ride.

Also, something to consider. I can buy new springs (stock) for about $67/pr. Which is what? $140 for all 4? It doesn't cost any more, or any less, to make a spring for our application in just about any rate or length. So all those aftermarket companies selling spring kits for $200+ are bending us over.

Steve
 
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