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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I was considering changing out the stock diff with the Ford Racing limited slip T Lok with 3.55 gears. I was under the impression that the stock was not LSD. However I did some burnouts the other day and I see two tire marks. My question is, is it worth changing the diff, or is the stock one good? Either way I'm adding 3.55 gears.
 

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I was considering changing out the stock diff with the Ford Racing limited slip T Lok with 3.55 gears. I was under the impression that the stock was not LSD. However I did some burnouts the other day and I see two tire marks. My question is, is it worth changing the diff, or is the stock one good? Either way I'm adding 3.55 gears.
keep the diff you have now! Wouldn't want to void the warranty just in case you still have it! I'm not sure if switching out the rear diff gears voids the warranty though. I don't know if it even matters to you.
 

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When you change gears, you have to completely disassemble and remove the carrier and change bearings, then respec the backlash and end play. You're modifying too many thing to not void the warranty on the differential.
 

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When you change gears, you have to completely disassemble and remove the carrier and change bearings, then respec the backlash and end play. You're modifying too many thing to not void the warranty on the differential.
Haha well when you put it that way...it seems pretty obvious that you would be lol
 

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I was considering changing out the stock diff with the Ford Racing limited slip T Lok with 3.55 gears. I was under the impression that the stock was not LSD. However I did some burnouts the other day and I see two tire marks. My question is, is it worth changing the diff, or is the stock one good? Either way I'm adding 3.55 gears.
Starting in 2011 all Mustangs have the 8.8" rear end and limited slip (Tlok). Up through the 2010 model year, the V6 Mustang had the 7.5" rear end with an open differential. If you have the 2010 then it would be an upgrade, but far cheaper and stronger to just swap for the 8.8 from a 2005-10 GT or any 2011+ Mustang. On my 2006 I broke the rear end with nothing more than a tune, drag radials, 3.73's, tlok, and rear end girdle. In the end it was cheaper to swap for the 8.8 than it cost me to build the 7.5 in the first place.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks everyone for the advice, I'm just gonna go with the gears. I figured the warranty on the drivetrain would be gone with a diff mod, but it probably already is, I changed out the driveshaft.
 

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I was considering changing out the stock diff with the Ford Racing limited slip T Lok with 3.55 gears. I was under the impression that the stock was not LSD. However I did some burnouts the other day and I see two tire marks. My question is, is it worth changing the diff, or is the stock one good? Either way I'm adding 3.55 gears.
I had this same question. The F ing shop I found that I finally thought was the one I would go to claimed that ford told them I had an open diff. Now I don't know what to do because they are either wrong or liars.
 

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Ricbjj said:
I was considering changing out the stock diff with the Ford Racing limited slip T Lok with 3.55 gears
He should have no warranty problem at all if his Ford dealer is selling and installing the gears.

Ronnie
 

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A gear change is usually $500 if they include the gears. So around 200, 300 on the high end for labor.
 

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Ricbjj said:

He should have no warranty problem at all if his Ford dealer is selling and installing the gears.

Ronnie
Doesn't matter really where the work is done. Ford gives you a warranty for the car that Ford built, not the car the dealer 'built'.

Once you modify a part it is no longer what Ford built.

Ford Racing does a separate warranty for their specific parts installed by an authorized Ford Racing shop, but that is not the Ford powertrain warranty. Not every dealer is an authorized shop.
 

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I was quoted close to $1000. Here in California labor is high. Who knows what the price would be in Europe where it looks like you are from.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I was quoted close to $1000. Here in California labor is high. Who knows what the price would be in Europe where it looks like you are from.
yeah I'm in Germany, the price for labor here is usually $100 or $200 higher, so I'm just trying to estimate whether I should diy with my mechanic buddy or take it in. I'm def gonna go get a quote based on what is being posted here.
 

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Before you DIY, research it and get the proper tools. You'll need at least a hydraulic press, magnetic dial gauge for measuring play/backlash, plus the coating for reading the ring/pinion pattern. If I had a lift, I'd try it myself. I don't think I'd want to with just jackstands though. It's tedious work and laying on the ground I get frustrated at times. lol
 
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