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I recently had my 13 auto on the dyno. With Bama race tune, x pipe and Shelby GT 500 exhaust. It only put down 346 RWHP and 362 RWTQ. The tuner then installed C & l cold air (tune required version) and put in a new dyno tune. After result were 371 RWHP and 391 RWTQ. Good gains, but not where they should be. Most other 5.0s this guy has tuned are well over 400 RWHP. Interestingly, we pulled the run files for 3 other similar cars side by side with mine. One was a buddy's car who was with me. My car was putting down a better torque number of 391 then all the others. However, all the other we're 400 plus on RWHP and mine only 371. Also, at 5000 RPM on my dyno sheet, on both the Bama tune and custom tune, power and torque nose dive. He seems to think I have a weak tune file from Ford and/ or a throttle issue. He recommends putting by stock box and tune back in and taking it to Ford to have them update the firmware, then bring it back to him. Any thoughts opinions would be greatly appreciated.
 

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I have a good relationship with the dealership. They are a customer of mine. Hoping that helps. I wish I had done a baseline dyno. But if I'm only putting down 347 on the Bama tune, it's probably in the 330s on the stock tune. That's far off the advertised 420 flywheel HP. If you 15% as driveline loss should be in the 360+ range stock. And that's what most autos are putting down stock.
 

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CPERR2013 said:
I have a good relationship with the dealership. They are a customer of mine. Hoping that helps. I wish I had done a baseline dyno. But if I'm only putting down 347 on the Bama tune, it's probably in the 330s on the stock tune. That's far off the advertised 420 flywheel HP. If you 15% as driveline loss should be in the 360+ range stock. And that's what most autos are putting down stock.
Yeah. Something sounds wrong. 2011 auto with x pipe, AB, air raid CAI and bama 93, I put down what I considered a bit low 380.
 

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CPERR2013 said:
I have a good relationship with the dealership. They are a customer of mine. Hoping that helps. I wish I had done a baseline dyno. But if I'm only putting down 347 on the Bama tune, it's probably in the 330s on the stock tune. That's far off the advertised 420 flywheel HP. If you 15% as driveline loss should be in the 360+ range stock. And that's what most autos are putting down stock.
Yup... 2011 auto - baseline 360WHP, 383 WHP with C&L CAI and 91 tune.
 

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Something definitely sounds weird here. I'm not so sure an update in PCM firmware will do you much good for hp/tq goals, but it's worth a try. I want to say it sounds more like a mechanical problem to me... but that's just because you've had two different experienced tuners write two different calibrations that both showed below par on the dyno.

Try the firmware update theory and go from there. I'm interested to hear the results!

Shane
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'm wondering what the best way to phrase my concerns to the dealer? I'm not too concerned about voiding warranty. More concerned about getting the power that is advertised.
 

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I'm wondering what the best way to phrase my concerns to the dealer? I'm not too concerned about voiding warranty. More concerned about getting the power that is advertised.
what kind of fuel are you using , ran the trank dry and refuel it with high octane , do not forget that nj area (where i live) just had a hurricane and a lot of states have being sending gas this way.. i wouldnt be surprised if they sold u cat for rabbit
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I only run 93 and occasionally put in some 100 octane just to boost octane level a little. I'm in NC so I don't think it's an issue.
 

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I'm wondering what the best way to phrase my concerns to the dealer? I'm not too concerned about voiding warranty. More concerned about getting the power that is advertised.
You could change everything back to stock and get one more run on the dyno. Once you get the dyno sheet, take it back to your dealer to show proof about your Mustangs power levels. It may help them put it perspective better, oppose to just going off of a customs opinion. Other than that, you could also take a ride in another friends Mustang who as similar specs, that is still stock and justify to your dealer that something doesn't feel right in the power.

These are just some suggestions of the top of my head. I'm sure you could do things a better way. Plus, you mentioned you had a good relationship with your dealer. Hopefully, that will help!

Shane
 

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CPERR, automatics will ALWAYS make 15-25RWHP less than sticks as a average in mustang V8's, camaro V8's, vetts, etc... Another important thing is weather, density altitude, heat, humidity, actual elevation, these will all be different. Plus, to me and the experts in Europe that have been racing and dynoing cars much longer then here in the U.S. say a proper dyno is done with the hood closed. Open is overly false giving higher numbers than actual due to excessive heat dissipation. In real world, the hood is closed. That's how proper dynos are done, hood closed with powerful small turbine fans in front for airflow. Most new 5.0 MT82's are in the 355-375 RWHP range depending on the weather and stock gears. The A6 trans should be in the 320-345rwhp range. American Muscles Auto did 327rwhp. That's the reality of autos. Figure 19-20% drivetrain loss. Sticks are typically 14.5-16% on NA cars.

Also, most manufactures use a dyno-jet type dyno. Mustang and chassis dynos tend to read lower.

---------- Post added at 08:31 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:26 PM ----------

I would not mention any modds to your dealer to save your warranty. You also must compare to friends with automatics and factory oem 3.15 gears. Plus, mufflers add no power and a CAI might add 8-10hp at most.
 

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It's 1 of 2 things. It's either the tune or the adaptive learning. These ecu's learn your driving habits. It's more noticeable in the auto cars. Unhook the battery for about 30 min the go threw the procedure for idle/fuel trim re learn via the owners manual. Then go drive/beat the tires off of it.
I'm leaning towards the tune. Have you do any data logging? Did you log the car on the dyno? An experienced tuner will be able to tell if something funky is going on in the log. I've been having issues with my car/tunes for weeks now. I've had over 13 tune revisions and sent in over 7 data logs now. All being for the same set up. Cold air and cat deletes. I'm only putting down 400hp and 383 tq. My car is a manual. My best 1/4 ET is 13.1 @ 109 with a 2.08 60ft.
I'm trying to rule out a hurt motor. A few of the tune revisions I have gotten run great for a few days. Then the cars seems to back off slightly and develop a rattle noise @ 4600rpm and up. I've asked bama several times if the car is pulling timing when the noise is occurring but they have yet to give me a straight answer.
I would seriously consider a dyno tune or a tune from someone like AED if your looking for more power
 

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check your oil level.. car could be in safe mode..

Um... I wouldn't rely on any safe mode to save you if the oil is low...first, there isn't a "safe mode" and the motor will smoke a bearing before telling you you're out of oil.
 

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There's a RE RE light that tells you if your oil is low. If your oil is low enough to cause issues with performance then the motor is all ready FUNAR!
 

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There's a RE RE light that tells you if your oil is low. If your oil is low enough to cause issues with performance then the motor is all ready FUNAR!
Whatever a RE RE means? There is NO oil level light, period. There is a pressure warning and that's it. It's on about page 13 or 14 of your owners' manual.

This is why there's a dipstick on this engine; it is still assumed the dipstick that owns it can check this thing every once in a while. This trust is rare these days as assumptions about owner incompetence with the simplest tasks are well-borne out in evidence, particularly in North America.
 

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This going to turn into a Canada is better than America thread?lol I know the indicator is based on pressure and not level. Still if there's no oil there's no pressure! RE RE means ******! If your one of the ppl thinking that just because ford says the oil only needs changed every 10k miles and do not check the level via the good ol dip stick at regular intervals them my friend you are a RE RE!
I check my oil every 500 miles and change both the filter and oil every 5k miles
 

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:lol: You are a colossal *******...I could tell right away when you showed up here what you'd eventually get up to and here we are. :thumb:

You said there was a light to tell you if the oil is low. That suggests to, I'd venture, almost anyone that you think it's a level light.

You can get oil pressure with a couple litres in there, and still smoke the bearings. By the time a pressure warning goes off, the engine could very well be done.

Modern engines with modern oil on an 8 litre sump could potentially go to 10K on an oil change, as long as the level is monitored, bar a racing environment. You might want to update your thinking in the area, as it isn't 1980 any more. People test and find that there's plenty of acid resistance and lubricity left in a modern synthetic oil at or near the 10K range, across many platforms and from many manufacturers. Personally, I change it ~ every 5000 miles but, I do drag race the car.

I simply don't understand the Canada v. America comment, based upon the fact I said, "North America" which, last I checked, included both nations.
 

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:lol: You are a colossal *******...I could tell right away when you showed up here what you'd eventually get up to and here we are. :thumb:

You said there was a light to tell you if the oil is low. That suggests to, I'd venture, almost anyone that you think it's a level light.

You can get oil pressure with a couple litres in there, and still smoke the bearings. By the time a pressure warning goes off, the engine could very well be done.

Modern engines with modern oil on an 8 litre sump could potentially go to 10K on an oil change, as long as the level is monitored, bar a racing environment. You might want to update your thinking in the area, as it isn't 1980 any more. People test and find that there's plenty of acid resistance and lubricity left in a modern synthetic oil at or near the 10K range, across many platforms and from many manufacturers. Personally, I change it ~ every 5000 miles but, I do drag race the car.

I simply don't understand the Canada v. America comment, based upon the fact I said, "North America" which, last I checked, included both nations.
I just asked a simple question? As ive seen comments like that turn into some pretty ignorant sh!t that has zero benefit to anyone!
This indicator light has many "terms". Dummy light, oil light, and for me RE RE light.
I guess I'm an A-Hole that changes his oil every 5k miles and checks it every 500. I'm ok with that
 

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This going to turn into a Canada is better than America thread?lol I know the indicator is based on pressure and not level. Still if there's no oil there's no pressure! RE RE means ******! If your one of the ppl thinking that just because ford says the oil only needs changed every 10k miles and do not check the level via the good ol dip stick at regular intervals them my friend you are a RE RE!
I check my oil every 500 miles and change both the filter and oil every 5k miles
I just asked a simple question? As ive seen comments like that turn into some pretty ignorant sh!t that has zero benefit to anyone!
This indicator light has many "terms". Dummy light, oil light, and for me RE RE light.
I guess I'm an A-Hole that changes his oil every 5k miles and checks it every 500. I'm ok with that
You clearly are very misinformed on some things. What I will say to you is if you continue to give out bogus answers on questions you will be called out.:nonono:
 
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