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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well I finally bought an aluminum driveshaft.
Next will be the Clutch and Flywheel to get rid of the Dual Mass Flywheel, my biggest complaint on mine has always been the deceleration vibration :banghead:
 

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Great! I have an Axle Exchange driveshaft too. The first things I noticed was it was quieter and smoother than the factory one :)
 

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+1 on the Axle Exchange Driveshaft.

My stock driveshaft would start vibrating at a certain speed, with the vibration increasing from annoying to very concerning as the speed increased to the limiter. No more vibration problems with the AE unit, plus no more concern about having the stock driveshaft fail.

I don't like the DM flywheel either; but I'm going to wait until either the flywheel or clutch fails before I replace it...
 

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What made you buy the "Axel Exchange" driveshaft over the "Driveshaft Shop" driveshaft? I've been looking into getting a one piece driveshaft myself but could never decide between the two. Is there any major differences between them or are they basically the same?

FYI Lethal will have the DSS 1-piece on sale for 15% off on Wednesday. I think I'll pull the trigger.


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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The DSS has the adapter that goes between the the shaft and the rear axle flange, that is the only reason. 1 more place for a possible vibration to come up.
 

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The Axle Exchange driveshaft is 4 inches in diameter. There was an "internet myth" that said, if you lower your Mustang a 4 inch driveshaft would rub and you should buy a 3 1/2 inch diameter driveshaft. I'm lowered (1 inch front, 1.5 inches in the rear) and run the Axle Exchange driveshaft and also have a driveshaft safety loop, nothing rubs :)
 

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I have a 13' with a 4 inch DSS Aluminum shafts and I'm lowered 1.2 inches all around with no rubbing. Much smoother running car. No issues at 145.
 

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How much clearance do yall have between the trans tunnel and DS with that 4" shaft and lowered? Assuming your car bottomed out and was on the bump stops (rear) would the shaft touch? Just curious now that its been brought up.
 

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How would you measure that?
 

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A ruler? Tape measure? Calipers? Just check the distance between the top of the shaft and the transmission tunnel.
As far as checking the clearance when on the bump stops, just get under the car with the axle loaded (to simulate ride height) and measure the clearance just like above, and compare that to how much room you have before the body of the car contacts the rear bump stops.
 

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I am looking at thw axle exchange as well. is there a difference between it and the driveshaft shop?
 

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How much clearance do yall have between the trans tunnel and DS with that 4" shaft and lowered? Assuming your car bottomed out and was on the bump stops (rear) would the shaft touch? Just curious now that its been brought up.
On mine there is so much clearance I didn't worry about it hitting anything on the body. I did go over some speed humps at a good speed and nothing hit. My fear was if there was enough clearance for the driveshaft safety loop when the suspension was fully lifted by the body and hanging down freely. It clears the bottom of the Loop by 1/2 inch :)
 

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Kinda makes me curious about Air Lift... I lay mine out at times so that's a bit lower than your average lowered car lol. Granted I wouldn't have to worry about rotation cause it's not moving then but being aluminum I'd hate to dent it.

My drive height is very low too... ground to center of wheel well is 26 1/2"

So would the 3 1/2" be a better option if I ever go that route or would the 4" work?
 

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...my biggest complaint on mine has always been the deceleration vibration...
That was also my biggest gripe. It had gotten to having vibrations at any speed above 70mph, accelerating or decelerating.

I bought the Axle Exchange unit and installed it. Much to my chagrin, the vibration remained. My tires were the original now-6-year-old Pirellis. I replaced them thinking that may be the problem. Nope, still there. I guess it could be the pinion bearing.

Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
That was also my biggest gripe. It had gotten to having vibrations at any speed above 70mph, accelerating or decelerating.

I bought the Axle Exchange unit and installed it. Much to my chagrin, the vibration remained. My tires were the original now-6-year-old Pirellis. I replaced them thinking that may be the problem. Nope, still there. I guess it could be the pinion bearing.

Any suggestions?
Did you have the tires road force balanced, my F 150 had a Vibration that the Road Force got rid of.
 

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Did you have the tires road force balanced, my F 150 had a Vibration that the Road Force got rid of.
Honestly, it doesn't feel like tires. It still feels like driveline/power train vibes. I have a new differential rebuild kit that I never needed when I first installed my gears. I'm about to install that.
 
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