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Discussion Starter #1
Okay fellow 5.0 lovers I have just about reached end of my rope. Car starts right up, dash mounted in line fuel pressure gauge reads 40 PSI at idle.
Still bogs when idling above 2,000 rpm or in drive when I hit the gas, Thus far replaced.

OEM Motorcraft plugs and Wires
Motorcraft 02 Sensors
Performed smoke test vacuum leaks, slight bleed EGR bladder replaced EGR Valve
IAC
Motorcraft Mass Air Meter and sensor complete
TFI Module
Ignition Coil
Cap Rotor
Distributor
Harmonic Balancer
PCV Valve
Motorcraft Canisister Purge Valve
Anyone have any thoughts?, with time and parts cost I have:blink: spent about 1/3 the cost of Coyote crate factory motor
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Fuel Filter

I have OEM one in the box came with tune up kit, did not go that way because car has 40,000 orig miles last changed fuel filter at 28K, I use strictly 100 octane unleaded since new....but yeah cant hurt will lift get under there tomorrow and swap it our, keep you posted, thanks

Fuel filter
 

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Sometimes it is the simple and stupid stuff that causes the biggest problems.

Hopefully that little part will work a miracle. If not, I will brainstorm with you.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for taking an interest rather than try and describe here's a video I took this morning I appreciate your time and knowledge base
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Video Will not load it basically stays flat right at 40 then when I gun the gas above 3000 RPM psi rises 50-52
 

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Replace the fuel filter as Revvv suggested.
With the engine idling, remove the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator located on the fuel rail. The fuel pressure should jump up to around 50 psi immediately once the vacuum line is removed.
 

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Have you run your codes?
What is your timing set at?
How does it drive without going WOT?
So you spent $2,000 in what you listed...........?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No time to detail by item but 13 items at average price of $125 gets me to an easy $1,750. since I did harmonic balancer, O noticed Fords proud plastic 23 year old radiator was ever so slightly starting to leak a shaft base of cap, so I pit in aluminum mishimoto 3 core unit, Since all that was apart a decided to add SVT Tranny cooler. You must be a bean counter by day, thought this was TMI for the purposes of getting knowledge base on root cause, EOD spent more like $2800, keep ya all posted taking off weds to get some gas on me
 

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No time to detail by item but 13 items at average price of $125 gets me to an easy $1,750. since I did harmonic balancer, O noticed Fords proud plastic 23 year old radiator was ever so slightly starting to leak a shaft base of cap, so I pit in aluminum mishimoto 3 core unit, Since all that was apart a decided to add SVT Tranny cooler. You must be a bean counter by day, thought this was TMI for the purposes of getting knowledge base on root cause, EOD spent more like $2800, keep ya all posted taking off weds to get some gas on me
Hmmmm nothing like the smell of gas. It's a gear head cologne.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
forgot air pump delete puley

No time to detail by item but 13 items at average price of $125 gets me to an easy $1,750. since I did harmonic balancer, O noticed Fords proud plastic 23 year old radiator was ever so slightly starting to leak a shaft base of cap, so I pit in aluminum mishimoto 3 core unit, Since all that was apart a decided to add SVT Tranny cooler. You must be a bean counter by day, thought this was TMI for the purposes of getting knowledge base on root cause, EOD spent more like $2800, keep ya all posted taking off weds to get some gas on me

just remembered cats long gone, tube welded off from air pump so I through the paper weight away and replaced with LMR billet air pump delete pulley :angel:
 

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No time to detail by item but 13 items at average price of $125 gets me to an easy $1,750. since I did harmonic balancer, O noticed Fords proud plastic 23 year old radiator was ever so slightly starting to leak a shaft base of cap, so I pit in aluminum mishimoto 3 core unit, Since all that was apart a decided to add SVT Tranny cooler. You must be a bean counter by day, thought this was TMI for the purposes of getting knowledge base on root cause, EOD spent more like $2800, keep ya all posted taking off weds to get some gas on me
Not a bean counter but I do wrench and that is why I asked since none of that should add up to what you said unless you paid someone to do it. Sorry you were offended so easily.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
New Fule Filter In, no change

Not a bean counter but I do wrench and that is why I asked since none of that should add up to what you said unless you paid someone to do it. Sorry you were offended so easily.

gents, fuel filter did not make a difference, if anyone is interested in looking at video, It will not up load here.. shoot me an email

[email protected] thanks
 

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Well, on the bright side, I think that the only other items that you haven't replaced is the Throttle Position Sensor and the fuel pressure regulator... Your fuel pressure seems to be within specifications, except for possibly the regulator is not increasing the pressure fast enough to prevent a bog from idle? It can be tested using a vacuum pump and a guage... And a Google search for the proper procedure, of course.
Same goes for the TPS. It can be easily tested using a multimeter.

Other than that, you've pretty much covered the engine management diagnosis. I suppose that next would be a compression/leakdown test to determine the internal health of the engine.
 

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just remembered cats long gone, tube welded off from air pump so I through the paper weight away and replaced with LMR billet air pump delete pulley :angel:
Also, not sure on your Mustang, but when I deleted the air pump on my truck, there was a vacuum hose that needed to be plugged. I assume that there are no open vacuum lines causing a leak on your machine?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Well, on the bright side, I think that the only other items that you haven't replaced is the Throttle Position Sensor and the fuel pressure regulator... Your fuel pressure seems to be within specifications, except for possibly the regulator is not increasing the pressure fast enough to prevent a bog from idle? It can be tested using a vacuum pump and a guage... And a Google search for the proper procedure, of course.
Same goes for the TPS. It can be easily tested using a multimeter.

Other than that, you've pretty much covered the engine management diagnosis. I suppose that next would be a compression/leakdown test to determine the internal health of the engine.
I know the TPS voltage should be below 1 volt, need to test, I had done compression test on all cylinders like a month before illness started, all good almost identical. Thanks for the pressure regulator tip, I did add a baseline regulator when ATI was installed back in 95 maybe its bad,or OEM is bad... keep you all posted. thanks again
 
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