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Discussion starter · #21 ·
Also, not sure on your Mustang, but when I deleted the air pump on my truck, there was a vacuum hose that needed to be plugged. I assume that there are no open vacuum lines causing a leak on your machine?
Thanks ...had performed smoke test for vacuum leaks, found bladder in EGR had slight leak, replaced. yes line from pump plugged..
 
Discussion starter · #22 ·
Case of the Missing diaphragm

Good morning gents, so I decided to order a new adjustable fuel pressure regulator from LMR arrives today, in the meantime I proceeded to remove and disassemble my 1994, 24 year old adj. regulator and VUALA!!
where the diaphragm is supposed to be are only slight remnants of what looks like residue from a white medical glove..I will be sitting in my driveway all day bird dogging the mail man arriving with my new regulator.more to follow!!
:dance:
 

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Discussion starter · #24 ·
BOYCOTT USPS THEY SUCK!! So USPS lost my fuel pressure regulator, after traveling to 4 counties in Florida and arguing with idiot so called site managers, I located it this morning in Miramar FL, I went ahead and installed it, adjusted the baseline to 42 PSI, still have same bogging issue. I ordered a OBD1 scanner, I know some guys use jumpers whatever to pull 3 digit codes, I don't get that. I have a brand new OEM Ford TPS in the box, I know should be .97 or less, waiting for friend to come by weekend with good Volt Meter and OBD scanner to arrive from Amazon, did I mention USPS sucks, BOYCOTT!!!!
 
Okay fellow 5.0 lovers I have just about reached end of my rope. Car starts right up, dash mounted in line fuel pressure gauge reads 40 PSI at idle.
Still bogs when idling above 2,000 rpm or in drive when I hit the gas, Thus far replaced.

OEM Motorcraft plugs and Wires
Motorcraft 02 Sensors
Performed smoke test vacuum leaks, slight bleed EGR bladder replaced EGR Valve
IAC
Motorcraft Mass Air Meter and sensor complete
TFI Module
Ignition Coil
Cap Rotor
Distributor
Harmonic Balancer
PCV Valve
Motorcraft Canisister Purge Valve
Anyone have any thoughts?, with time and parts cost I have:blink: spent about 1/3 the cost of Coyote crate factory motor
It's either your fuel pump or injectors have gone bad! Either that it check your MAF to see if its been damaged some how!
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Throwing ib the towel, today I got OBD1 scanner and ran it, got only one code 563 Fan circuit fault, which does not make sense because the 1st thing scanner does is run electric fan, works fine. Going to try and limp car to an old school mechanic 15 miles from home, I did find another post guy with similar problem was the sock on OEM fuel pump in tank disintegrated and was causing this issue, I will post final resolution.
 
The fan code might be because the fan didn't complete a full cycle, or something like that. Probably doesn't mean anything.
I was hoping that there would be a code to point the diagnosis in the right direction. I still suspect a fuel delivery problem. Have the mechanic test the vacuum signal to the fuel pressure regulator, if he can't find anything obvious that is wrong.

Good luck!
 
Is the manifold sealing? Is there a crack you have yet to notice.

I agree with Stray that it sounds like a fuel issue, but too much air that isn't monitored will lean the A/F mixture out and the car will not idle correctly.

Check the PVC hoses, and everything that vents into the intake.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
OK Gents the final verdict, some very patient guys at Kovac Automotive in Davie FL, found the following, bad TPS, replaced , after market Dynamod TFI I replaced was defective, replaced with Motorcraft OEM, main fuel line slight leak losing volume although baseline pressure looked good at 50 psi, the VSS went bad along with speedo gear which had basically deteriorated, speed sensor was bad, #DY1205, car back to normal.
 
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