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Discussion Starter #1
I have plans to rebuild my 2012 GT motor. I’m new to the mechanics of vehicles. I would like to know what ideas you guys have on what you would rebuild and upgrade if you were in my shoes. I Plan on having a mechanic do all the work. I just want to be confident that I’m paying for top quality.
 

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Find a low mileage pullout from a 2015-2017. Direct replacement for your engine and you'll get a power bump from the Gen2 heads. Replace the intake with a 2018 GT intake. Have the mechanic just drop it in. Don't overthink it and that will also be super cost effective vs a "build".

Get a solid tune from Lund or AED sent to you for startup and then dial it in from there. Or if there is a local reputable dyno tuner, have the car towed there for tuning and optimizing the power from your new engine.
 

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Find a low mileage pullout from a 2015-2017. Direct replacement for your engine and you'll get a power bump from the Gen2 heads. Replace the intake with a 2018 GT intake. Have the mechanic just drop it in. Don't overthink it and that will also be super cost effective vs a "build".

Get a solid tune from Lund or AED sent to you for startup and then dial it in from there. Or if there is a local reputable dyno tuner, have the car towed there for tuning and optimizing the power from your new engine.
I didn't realize those engines were direct replacements. That's great information. Don't they also have better rods and pistons(stronger, possibly forged)?
 

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Although that is a great idea I would like to rebuild my motor so I know what I have. I do not want someone else’s and take the chance of a dogged out motor. What should I have rebuilt into my motor when I have it rebuilt?
 

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I didn't realize those engines were direct replacements. That's great information. Don't they also have better rods and pistons(stronger, possibly forged)?
Rods are better, they are BOSS rods, sinter "forged", not actual drop forged but plenty strong. Heads and intake are better, cams I think are better but not 100%.

Although that is a great idea I would like to rebuild my motor so I know what I have. I do not want someone else’s and take the chance of a dogged out motor. What should I have rebuilt into my motor when I have it rebuilt?
Then buy a new 2015-2017 spec crate motor from Ford. If you aren't planning for 1000hp, this is more than enough. But you can get a low mileage 2015-2017 with a warranty from multipe national part places or even a local yard will probably have warranties. Hell a lot of the time you can see the engine running in the car before they pull it.

Up to you. If you are doing a "build" and aren't looking at 1000hp you are wasting money but you can do a block, stock crank, forged rods and pistons, stock Gen2 heads, stock cams and a 2018 intake. Why I say just get a crate engine.
 
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Why are you needing to rebuild your motor?
 

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Okay cool I have been looking at just getting a low mile motor. Makes sense what y’all are saying. I just like the “new” and “knowing what I have” feeling. I am rebuilding because the current one has about 140k miles and was ran hard by a buddy. He did not take care of the car at all. Let’s say I decided to rebuild. If I just bought a header, cams, and forged pistons and rods would that be decent? The motor shop ball parked 2500 to rebuild plus parts. That would be about what a bee crate motor would be.
 

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The 2015 engine would still have the better heads.

And if that 140k engine has good compression and passes a leakdown check just run it.
 

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Don't rebuild that motor. If anything get a 2015+ long or short block from Ford. If the guy you want to build you a motor has no experience with modulars you're screwed.
 

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Okay cool I have been looking at just getting a low mile motor. Makes sense what y’all are saying. I just like the “new” and “knowing what I have” feeling. I am rebuilding because the current one has about 140k miles and was ran hard by a buddy. He did not take care of the car at all. Let’s say I decided to rebuild. If I just bought a header, cams, and forged pistons and rods would that be decent? The motor shop ball parked 2500 to rebuild plus parts. That would be about what a bee crate motor would be.
I get what you are saying about rebuilding. The Coyote engine is pretty good right from the factory though. There really aren't many worthwhile modifications that you can do internally that will gain any significant power.
Most people "build" an engine to make it capable of withstanding high power levels when adding forced induction.
The engine in your car is the same engine that they use in pickup trucks. It is fairly stout. As long as it runs good, and doesn't make any horrible noises, I wouldn't worry too much about it... A brand new engine can have problems just like a higher mileage engine can.
Either a low mileage replacement, or a factory crate engine, is really the way to go, unless you need an engine that will be subjected to copious amounts of boost, and very high power levels.... Basically, a purpose-built race engine.
 

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A 15-17 gen 2 would not be a direct swap. Would have to open up & swap over all of the timing components to make it work with yours. You can always rebuild yours, which down time would suck, buy a built short block & send in your heads to get looked at, then reassemble. You can always go with the one Ford sells as a long block. Its a gen 2 with everything ready to be dropped into an 11-14 5.0. Another option would be to swap out your short block for a boss one which runs 3k ish

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G928A using Mustang Evolution mobile app
 

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Its a direct swap as in you put the new engine on a stand and swap all your Gen1 stuff from the blown engine to it and then drop it in... You're pulling the old engine out anyway, its not very much work.
 

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Oh, I see what you mean now. Too bad them gen 2's ran out from ford. That was gonna be my plan for a budget build, but now I dont know.

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Cylinder liners are very thin and probably won't be able to be honed, if you need to correct something such as any scoring or damage to the bores.
About the best you could do is break the cylinder glaze off with a ball hone and return the cross hatch/surface finish.
2018 long block with the 18 manifold is the way to go!
if it aint broke, don't fix it.

---------- Post added at 06:31 AM ---------- Previous post was at 06:31 AM ----------

Cylinder liners are very thin and probably won't be able to be honed, if you need to correct something such as any scoring or damage to the bores.
About the best you could do is break the cylinder glaze off with a ball hone and return the cross hatch/surface finish.
2018 long block with the 18 manifold is the way to go!
if it aint broke, don't fix it.
 

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Are the Gen3 longblocks a drop in with the Gen1 if you swap all the Gen1 timing stuff over? Wonder if it would be possible to add the direct injection to the Gen1 system...

If not then I'd just roll with the Gen2 longblock for the Gen1 and then add the 2018 intake.
 
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