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Discussion Starter #1
Instead of clogging up the forum with little threads for each small project I do, I thought I'd just make in big thread and post up my progress here.

So today I started in on my throttle linkage project. My original one was really loose and had a lot of slop in it, so I decided to upgrade to a heim joint linkage. I've seen them online for about $40, but making my own sounded much more fun. Plus this way I can make it fit my application perfectly. Here is what I was originally working with:
ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1397693418.939601.jpg
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Looking on summit, I found a set of joints and tube ends. I went with the economy ones because it's only a throttle linkage after all.
ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1397693342.267206.jpg
Total coat from Summit: $17.47.

The shoulder bolts I found only at Ace hardware, not surprised that the big box store didn't have them. I also grabbed some various hardware: $5.20.

I found the right sized tube at Home Depot for $8.20 out the door. Of course it's a 4ft piece and I only need 7". I was debating between aluminum and steel, and went with steel. Why engineer it when you can over-engineer it?

So total parts bill: $30.87. Not too bad. Here is my mock up:
ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1397693822.703933.jpg
ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1397693839.922136.jpg

Everything actuates without issue. I'm JB Welding the ends into the tubes - should be more than adequate, but that means I can't work in it until tomorrow...bummer. I'll post up more as I progress.
 

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Looks good. I made one similar for mine the little clips that held the rod on would always pop off and leave me stranded so i said f it and made one for my self!
 

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very nice I like it when a plan comes together(-;
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I went for a spin today to test out my throttle linkage and vacuum advance. Also pretty much had to to celebrate Mustang's 50th. Only a few pine needles came flying out of the vents this time.

Linkage worked great - ill post up pictures once I get the finishing touches on it.

The advance seems to really help the general feel and power (so it's working), but there still seems to be something not quite right. It seems like it doesn't have the power it should.

I think the next steps are checking spark and compression, and seeing about having the carb jetted. I know I'm at a higher altitude than the PO, and I don't know if it was rejetted when it came from sea level, so it might be running fairly rich.
 

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You might check that the advance isn't sticking. Since it hasn't been hooked up for a while. In the bottom of the distributor, the advance linkage can get corroded and stick, try lubing there. But also check the other stuff.
You're making great progress.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys! As for the engine, I think testing the compression, spark, etc is a good next step, but I will definitely look into the advance. The dizzy is a relatively new pertronix deal though, so I'm guessing the issues most like lay lie elsewhere.

But as for the less important project, here is how the throttle linkage turned out:
ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1397936382.869872.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1397936403.197778.jpg

I probably could have made it for less, but it ties into a longer-term design plan for under the hood.

I'm guessing next weekend I'll have some time to look deeper into the engine. Shorter term, I need to replace the temp sending unit - already have the replacement in hand. It'd be nice to see how things are heating up.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I had a few minutes to look into my vacuum and brake booster today. With all the hoses properly replaced, I'm now holding 16" of vac at the booster port at idle, and the new check valve is working properly. Using my hand pump, I was only able to get about 5-6" vac in the booster itself, but it held it. Not sure if that's reasonable.

Looking at the routing through the proportioning valve:
ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1398221593.827253.jpg
The larger rear reservoir is hooked up to the upper rear of the proportioning valve. The smaller front reservoir is hooked up the the upper front of the proportioning valve. The lower rear goes to the rear brakes and lower front and front go to their respective front brakes.

Starting the car, the pedal does drop a little as it should, but the pedal still feels very firm. Any thoughts? I found conflicting info on the line routing, any input there?

Thanks!
 

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The lines are right. The vacuum reading is right. But as far as the vacuum at the booster i have no idea. You could call wilwood or summit and I'm sure they will be able to help you with that part
 

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I have the CSRP 67 style power disc swap in my car and the pedal is still relatively firm. My dad also had a 1978 911 sc and the power brakes felt the same.
 

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Does your pedal seem like it doesn't come all the way back up? The brakes will lock up and the pedal is also firm ( seems a little too firm). But the pedal doesn't come all the way up and there aren't any leaks. The kit was already in the car when I got it. I was looking at some other kits and one of the them required relocating the brake pedal mounting location when going from manual to power. Is that a requirement for all of the upgrades to from manual to power? I guess it's possible mine was power drum first.
 

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Does your pedal seem like it doesn't come all the way back up? The brakes will lock up and the pedal is also firm ( seems a little too firm). But the pedal doesn't come all the way up and there aren't any leaks. The kit was already in the car when I got it. I was looking at some other kits and one of the them required relocating the brake pedal mounting location when going from manual to power. Is that a requirement for all of the upgrades to from manual to power? I guess it's possible mine was power drum first.

When i converted my manual to power mine came with a bracket that changed the position of the pedal
 

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Does your pedal seem like it doesn't come all the way back up? The brakes will lock up and the pedal is also firm ( seems a little too firm). But the pedal doesn't come all the way up and there aren't any leaks. The kit was already in the car when I got it. I was looking at some other kits and one of the them required relocating the brake pedal mounting location when going from manual to power. Is that a requirement for all of the upgrades to from manual to power? I guess it's possible mine was power drum first.

When i converted my manual to power mine came with a bracket that changed the position of the pedal
 

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When i converted my manual to power mine came with a bracket that changed the position of the pedal
I wonder if mine is correct, I'll have to check it. Whoever did it, used the old proportioning valve and added an adjustable one for the rear. I've installed the correct one and some new lines along with the new master cylinder and booster. I installed new caliper piston seals, maybe I should have put in new calipers.
 

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I wonder if mine is correct, I'll have to check it. Whoever did it, used the old proportioning valve and added an adjustable one for the rear. I've installed the correct one and some new lines along with the new master cylinder and booster. I installed new caliper piston seals, maybe I should have put in new calipers.

Hmmm i think the sell the little bracket that changes the angle but i cant remember where. Maybe NPD
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks guys, so I double checked everything yesterday and after doing a lot of research, I decided to try testing the vac in the booster again. So I went to town on the booster with the hand pump. A long time later, I was able to build up about 12" of vac, and it held, so it's looking like the booster isn't actually my issue. I've been way too busy to actually take it out and see if my vac changes actually made a difference in braking, so hopefully this weekend I'll have time to take her out. I'll keep you posted!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I had a chance to get her out in the road today before it rained. The engine feels decent - I still need to get the carb jetted though. So doing some brake tests, the pedal is still very firm, but I was able to lock the wheels braking from about 50 mpg, but I really had to use some leg muscles to make it happen. As long as I'm aware of it, I feel safe enough - I'll revisit the brakes another time. So I think for the moment, I'm going to leave the brakes and focus on a couple other things.

Next up, I have a new turn signal switch on the way. I'm hoping that will fix my nonexistent left turn signal. Then I need to replace my temp sensor so I can see how hot things are getting. And while I'm at that, I'll replace hoses and flush the rad.
 

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I had a chance to get her out in the road today before it rained. The engine feels decent - I still need to get the carb jetted though. So doing some brake tests, the pedal is still very firm, but I was able to lock the wheels braking from about 50 mpg, but I really had to use some leg muscles to make it happen. As long as I'm aware of it, I feel safe enough - I'll revisit the brakes another time. So I think for the moment, I'm going to leave the brakes and focus on a couple other things.

Next up, I have a new turn signal switch on the way. I'm hoping that will fix my nonexistent left turn signal. Then I need to replace my temp sensor so I can see how hot things are getting. And while I'm at that, I'll replace hoses and flush the rad.

I had to flush my rad 3 times before it was semi clean haha
 

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Discussion Starter #20
I had some time - I love Fridays - so I replaced my turn signal switch in hopes of sorting out my left brake light/turn signal issue. It definitely needed replacing, but it didn't actually make a difference. I'm guessing next step is testing the brake switch, or keep looking around for a brake in the wire. But looking under the dash, I'm really considering replacing all the wiring sooner rather than later.

Anyway, I also got halogen H4 housings to replace the dim sealed beams, and while I was in there replaced the hardware and cleaned up the nasty headlight bowls and got some rust encapsulator on them. Tomorrow I'll get everything back together and get some pictures. I have yet to do night driving but it will be nice to feel like I can see when I do.
 
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