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Discussion Starter #63
I actually learned to skate and started hockey as an adult, about 25. All of my bad injuries were from middle school/HS/college football. Things that are never going to be the same like my back and knees.

I play goal in an adult rec league, and I was in the butterfly and stretched out to make a pad save off a rebound. That was just enough twisting/straining on my lower back to jack things up. And stupid me, I didn't pull myself - kept thinking it was just tight muscles.
 

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I actually learned to skate and started hockey as an adult, about 25. All of my bad injuries were from middle school/HS/college football. Things that are never going to be the same like my back and knees.

I play goal in an adult rec league, and I was in the butterfly and stretched out to make a pad save off a rebound. That was just enough twisting/straining on my lower back to jack things up. And stupid me, I didn't pull myself - kept thinking it was just tight muscles.

I still play, actually with my uncle and dad for an "adult league" I love the game its a very good stress reliever
 

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Discussion Starter #65
I had some free time this afternoon, so I got started on trunk/fuel tank.

And of course I found some interesting things. The good news is underneath all the seam sealer and undercoating and dirt, things are pretty decent, no big rust issues.

So there are some obvious additions to the wiring harness - there was a large bundle going from the driver side harness and to a connector on the passenger side by the tank. Mounted next to it there was also what looks like a tire air valve for a tire. My first thought was air ride?

Anyway, it looks like whatever it was, all the wiring has been cut away. I've got some wire-wheeling in my future. ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1412037660.096240.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1412037685.400698.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1412037700.346223.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1412037725.227202.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1412037741.263628.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1412037755.024899.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #67
My car had that same valve! Haha it was for air shocks

Good to know! Any thoughts on that bundle of 6 wires?

It also looks like someone put the tank in on top of the fuel level sending wire, pinching it - I'm amazed it didn't short out or break. People really annoy me sometimes.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
You can see it in the first picture. They originate from the harness before the driver side tail light, and in one big bundle run along the trunk floor at the back and exit through what looks like a conduit connector to the right of the gas tank. Underneath the car, the whole bundle was cut at the connector.

It's not a big deal, and I'm inclined to remove it or just properly terminate the wires. I'll put in a new harness eventually, for now I'm considering replacing just the rear harness.

Anyway, someone clearly added something which was later removed, I'm really just curious what it could be.
 

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Could have been a sound system or maybe even an air ride? Could have been a million things! Iv you do get a new harness, I got an updated version from American Autowire and it was pretty easy to do and has a lot of extras like for fog lights, electric fans and halogen lights. Only down falls were trying to wire the alternator and the heater control seems a little confusing but i haven gotten around to fixing that yet
 

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Looks like it may have had a trailer hitch at one time. Lights for a trailer are usually sliced into the tail lights. You could use a test light and turn on a blinker and see if one flashes.
 

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Discussion Starter #73
I think for the moment I'm holding off on the taillight harness. Doesn't make sense to me to replace just the rear now, and the rest later, so I'll just be careful with it while I'm doing the trunk area.

One other question, it looks like ford used seam sealer and undercoating in the trunk. I've used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator undercoat on the underside and it was more like textured paint. Any suggestions on what to use?
 

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I think for the moment I'm holding off on the taillight harness. Doesn't make sense to me to replace just the rear now, and the rest later, so I'll just be careful with it while I'm doing the trunk area.

One other question, it looks like ford used seam sealer and undercoating in the trunk. I've used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator undercoat on the underside and it was more like textured paint. Any suggestions on what to use?

I used truck bed liner on mine you can put on thick too and it'll help absorb some noise although it has that textured paint look too, if you a rust proofer and want a smooth finish then id get pro15 that stuff dries like glass just a warning do not get it on anything that you don't want it including hands and use a cheap non foam paint brush to apply it. That stuff is like supper glue haha
 

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Discussion Starter #75
Okay, I've been holding out on you guys. I have been busy the past few weeks, and made the decision to really dig into my car - not things that can be undone in a couple evenings. So I have obtained a small mig welder, and got up to snuff on my mig by making a cart for it (I've TIG welded in the past).
ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415072612.518662.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415072625.326830.jpg

I stripped the interior and trunk and have started to go to town on the 67 with a wire wheel to figure out just how much needs to be worked. I've begun gathering some I the parts I already know will need work.

ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415072815.555938.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415072840.624916.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415072877.482851.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415072898.526309.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415072915.180914.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415072953.128052.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415072973.061487.jpg

Interesting what you can find.
ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415073039.363612.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415073053.872425.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415073072.712485.jpg

The trunk area is in surprisingly good shape.
ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415073093.371922.jpg

Roof...not so much
ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415073192.039734.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415073215.704714.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415073235.793630.jpg

Most of the metal on the floors is okay, but the installation is crap. This shows light coming through a 1/2" gap...
ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415073347.089017.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415073371.660572.jpg

And the new metal hanging out in the trunk.
ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415073402.066275.jpg

So next is a lot of love with the wire wheel, adding braces an figuring out what to cut (eek!). If you have gotten this far in the post and have any tips for bracing her, I'm all ears! It looks like the roof, back seat support, taillight panel (maybe), rear framerails, front framerails, torque boxes and floors will all need to be addressed - obviously not at the same time. But any advice you can provide on keeping her together while I perform surgery and order of operations is very welcome! Thanks!
 

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Ha well tbh iv replaced floor pans battery tray rear aprons quarter panel the panel behind the re glass and the upper and lower cowl and haven't braced anything and haven't had a problem with it flexing on me.

On a side note if you don't mind me asking how much was that bottle of gas? And what kind of gas is it? I bought a welder about a year ago and i still need to get a bottle for it


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide
 

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It's looking awesome. Fixing the bones will pay off huge later on. Modern rust proofing and protectors make these repairs last forever. What model Lincoln is that?


Chevy runs deep, don't step in Chevy.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
So the welder is a Lincoln K2185 Handy Mig. Just a simple 120v unit, but it tackled the 1/8" with good penetration, and I was running it pretty regularly. It only really has 4 voltage settings, which is a bummer, but for my purposes is just fine. I did learn the hard way that my 15 A circuit can't take more than a few seconds on high. I tripped the breaker leaving me in pitch black in the middle of my garage with welding gear on : ) But that was me testing it out, at the highest it would burn right through sheet metal. If I ever want to do anything heavier than 1/8" I'd consider seeing if a 20 A breaker is safe.

For the gas, I did a little shopping around and all out the door I was a little over 200, but I did get some wire, so I'm not sure how it all broke down. If I felt like driving there was a slightly cheaper place, but I settled for convenience. I had to purchase the bottle, and fill ups are $55 I think. The next size down was half as big and fill ups were $50, and the next size up didn't make sense since I won't be doing that much welding.

I went with 75% argon/25% CO2 ( often called just C-25). I read that it's very common and good for all around mig work. I probably could have saved some cash if I found a craigslist bottle, but I was impatient. If you go that route, you have to look at the date stamp, I've heard places won't fill or exchange the bottle if it's expired (10 yrs I think) or damaged. ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1415329487.588768.jpg
 

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I use innersheild wire, no gas needed but my welder is a 135 lincoln, little more powerful. That's a nice setup though, good job on the cart!
 

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So the welder is a Lincoln K2185 Handy Mig. Just a simple 120v unit, but it tackled the 1/8" with good penetration, and I was running it pretty regularly. It only really has 4 voltage settings, which is a bummer, but for my purposes is just fine. I did learn the hard way that my 15 A circuit can't take more than a few seconds on high. I tripped the breaker leaving me in pitch black in the middle of my garage with welding gear on : ) But that was me testing it out, at the highest it would burn right through sheet metal. If I ever want to do anything heavier than 1/8" I'd consider seeing if a 20 A breaker is safe.

For the gas, I did a little shopping around and all out the door I was a little over 200, but I did get some wire, so I'm not sure how it all broke down. If I felt like driving there was a slightly cheaper place, but I settled for convenience. I had to purchase the bottle, and fill ups are $55 I think. The next size down was half as big and fill ups were $50, and the next size up didn't make sense since I won't be doing that much welding.

I went with 75% argon/25% CO2 ( often called just C-25). I read that it's very common and good for all around mig work. I probably could have saved some cash if I found a craigslist bottle, but I was impatient. If you go that route, you have to look at the date stamp, I've heard places won't fill or exchange the bottle if it's expired (10 yrs I think) or damaged. View attachment 169328
Thanks for the details. It's helpful, I really only need it for car stuff.


Chevy runs deep, don't step in Chevy.
 
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