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Discussion Starter #81
Thanks! The cart was the perfect project to get familiar with the welder, plus it's useful. I've tried the self-shielding wire, an it works, but I'm not a fan of the extra spatter and smoke. If you do switch over, don't forget your polarity and drive wheels will need to change. Took me a while to figure out why the wire feed was all crappy.

I'm glad to share anything i know. I'm new to mig welding, so what I know isn't that much. I'd check out two YouTube channels:
ChuckE2009
WeldingTipsAndTricks

Both have some pretty good videos for beginners on mig that helped me out a lot!
 

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Discussion Starter #82
Got a little time tonight, so I got going on the fender. My goal was to finish the panel, but my wire wheel was too worn down, so I cleaned it and gave it a dusting of primer. I'll wrap up the rest hopefully this weekend. Only a couple questionable spots so far - keep your fingers crossed as I get farther along! ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1416018650.460540.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1416018667.392880.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1416018679.042289.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1416018697.594397.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1416018790.968292.jpg
 

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I remember those days notttt the funnest work but def one of the most rewarding!! Are you going to do the body work?


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide
 

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Discussion Starter #84
Undecided on exactly how far I'll take it and what I leave to professionals. I'll tackle the metal, but I've heard shops have issue painting over somebody else's body work. I'm thinking I might get it essentially down to a shell in primer and send it out for paint and body, then do all the reassembly.

Timeline and budget could change a little (a lot) once I figure out my engine situation too. But that's at the front I the car, I'm still all the way at the back : )
 

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Yeah I actually had that card pulled on me. They were suppose to strip it and and repaint it but never did and had to re do all there work


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Not much to show, but I learned a valuable lesson. The car is on 4 jack stands - two under the front floor supports, two under the rear framerails. I've stripped out the interior, removed the gas tank, deck lid, front and rear glass, carpet, seats, etc. It turns out all that stuff was heavy....and the engine is also heavy. I went to drop the rear suspension, supporting the diff with a floor jack and removing the rear shackles first (BTW this is the same setup as when I dropped the diff in the past). When I got the second one off, the ass end of the car started rising up - the car was essentially teetering on the front jack stands! I nearly crapped my pants, grabbed the tail end to keep the car from tipping too far forwards, and threw a toolbox and cv axle from my dd in the trunk to hold it down while I reattached the suspension.

If it had kept tipping, it probably would have knocked over or slid off the front stands, and the forward momentum surely would have sent it into/through the shut garage door. Lesson learned.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
So yesterday I decided to start in on the driver floor, just to see how far I'd have to take it. Best case, I'd burn in the new floor and move on. Worst case...well you know.

So the good news is that the floor support seems solid. A little interior surface rust - still undecided on if it stays or not. The concern right now is how far up the firewall my issues go. It's looking like the torque box could use some love (not to mention there isn't one on the passenger side - ha!). I'm just hoping I don't need a new firewall, because of course that would mean removing the whole front end.

So in my explorations, where should I go next? If I do need new framerails or firewall, it obviously doesn't make sense to hold off on them. I'm about 95% sure the cowl has to go, so should I bite the bullet and pull the engine now and start from the front? Not sure the most efficient way to proceed from here.

Forgive my mess, I had to move all my cords back inside the car - and I know it looks close, but the fuel line was well out of the way and protected before I started hacking away : ) ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1418614806.615635.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1418614844.332954.jpg
 

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The sell the lower part of the fire wall like parts thats bent so as long as the rust doesn't go past the bend you should be fine to just put floors and not have to take everything out. Im actually planing on redoing my floors with a whole one pice floor. Replacing the floor was one of my first experiences with cutting out rust and patch panels.... Iv gotten a lot better sense then haha


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide
 

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Looking good man. Love these types of projects. It's amazing what you can learn by tearing into these old beauties.

Am I reading that tape measure right though?!?! That's a lot of bondo!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Mustang Evolution
 

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Discussion Starter #91
The sell the lower part of the fire wall like parts thats bent so as long as the rust doesn't go past the bend you should be fine to just put floors and not have to take everything out. Im actually planing on redoing my floors with a whole one pice floor. Replacing the floor was one of my first experiences with cutting out rust and patch panels.... Iv gotten a lot better sense then haha


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide

Thanks, I definitely need to tear into it more to see just how bad it is before I know about the firewall. I think the next step is to remove the fender and torque box, that should give me a good view at what's there. Keep your fingers crossed for minimal firewall rust!

Hey, when the cowl comes out, do you know how much firewall access that gives you?
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Looking good man. Love these types of projects. It's amazing what you can learn by tearing into these old beauties.

Am I reading that tape measure right though?!?! That's a lot of bondo!!!


Sent from my iPhone using Mustang Evolution

Yeah at some point someone slapped a ton of bondo and some cheap paint on it - probably for a quick sale. So far that's the thickest I've found - just about 3/8 inch. She deserves better than that!
 

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Thanks, I definitely need to tear into it more to see just how bad it is before I know about the firewall. I think the next step is to remove the fender and torque box, that should give me a good view at what's there. Keep your fingers crossed for minimal firewall rust!

Hey, when the cowl comes out, do you know how much firewall access that gives you?

Complete ha well depends theres and upper and lower cowl. The upper doesn't give you any but the lower will give you full access depending on the amount you cut out


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide
 

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Discussion Starter #94
Complete ha well depends theres and upper and lower cowl. The upper doesn't give you any but the lower will give you full access depending on the amount you cut out


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide

Since I'm fairly certain the whole cowl needs replacing, maybe the right play is to remove the torque box and then if the firewall needs more attention, do the cowl and firewall together. I'll hopefully have some time after the holiday...bummer, I'd love to have time sooner!
 

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Yeah if you are replacing the whole cowl the. It be ideal to replace the fire wall then too. Just make sure you put all body panels back on before welding everything back on. Also might want to put some bracing on if you take all of that stuff out at once


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide
 

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Discussion Starter #96
Yeah if you are replacing the whole cowl the. It be ideal to replace the fire wall then too. Just make sure you put all body panels back on before welding everything back on. Also might want to put some bracing on if you take all of that stuff out at once


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide

Ha, bracing for sure. It all depends on how things look when I get in there. And the engine has to come out before too much metal is removed. It's coming out anyway, and I don't want all that weight in there if I'm cutting out structural metal.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
Yeah if you are replacing the whole cowl the. It be ideal to replace the fire wall then too. Just make sure you put all body panels back on before welding everything back on. Also might want to put some bracing on if you take all of that stuff out at once


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide

Ha, bracing for sure. It all depends on how things look when I get in there. And the engine has to come out before too much metal is removed. It's coming out anyway, and I don't want all that weight in there if I'm cutting out structural metal.
 

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If I'm not mistaken, if you go with convertible floors, they have a torque box on the passenger side also.


Chevy runs deep, don't step in Chevy.
 

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Yeah if you are replacing the whole cowl the. It be ideal to replace the fire wall then too. Just make sure you put all body panels back on before welding everything back on. Also might want to put some bracing on if you take all of that stuff out at once


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide
 

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Discussion Starter #100
If I'm not mistaken, if you go with convertible floors, they have a torque box on the passenger side also.


Chevy runs deep, don't step in Chevy.

Yeah verts have a pass side one. Do you know if the floor is different, or if I can just add a passenger side torque box? I haven't looked into it that much yet.

Thanks!
 
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