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I think it's an easy deal. I've heard people putting very floors when doing a full floor replacement. I know the sill plates are different.


Chevy runs deep, don't step in Chevy.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
I think it's an easy deal. I've heard people putting very floors when doing a full floor replacement. I know the sill plates are different.


Chevy runs deep, don't step in Chevy.

True, I remember verts have an inner rocker as well, but I'm thinking that shouldn't matter for the TB. I'll certainly spend some time with the shop manual before I hack away! Thanks'
 

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Discussion Starter #103
Quick update: I snuck in a couple hours in the garage before visiting with the in laws. Got the fender off and scraped away some of the undercoating. There seems less rusty areas than initially though, but the cowl for sure will need addressing. I need some time wire wheeling to tell the whole story, but first impressions aren't bad...

ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1419115491.312010.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1419115512.197980.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #104
Okay, I have realized that once I start down the torque box path, might as well to the firewall and cowl at the same time. So while I gather parts for that, I started in on the rear seat brace.

I braced the car just in case and got the old one cut out, and got a really good look in there:
ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1420861609.764149.jpg
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The rusty parts are the upper insides of the quarters. Not looking too good. Funny that's it's just the upper parts though. My guess is that the rear window leaked, causing the rust in the seat brace that spread to the quarters.

So my question, how do I tell if they're too far gone? Things looked and felt good from the outside when I stripped the paint. And I can wire wheel from the inside, but is there a good way to tell if the metal has gotten too thin once all the rust is cleaned off?

I might be needing new quarters :(

Thanks, and let me know your thoughts!
 

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I forget who makes it but there is a rust converting chemical that turns rust into a rust resistant film, those don't look too bad at all. It's from condensation gathering on the unpainted metal surfaces for 45+ years
 

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^+1 i think as long as its a little surface rust that comes off with a wire wheel then you'll be fine with do pro 15 on it. Or even some sound deadener


Killing time isnt murder, it's suicide
 

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Discussion Starter #107
I think you guys are right, I got up under there with the wire wheel, and it cleaned up nicely. I can't get to all the books and crannies, so if I don't decide to do anything drastic, I'll probably reach what I can, then hit everything with some rust encapsulator/POR15 and go from there.

When I have more time, I'll get more progress pictures up.

Sorry, I'm learning that I tend to overreact when it comes to rust...but it scares me a little bit! Thanks for the reassurance!
 

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Discussion Starter #109
Got some time, finished removing the rest of the rear seat support. I made a patch from where they made the "repair". Pretty happy with the patch - worked out well. Also test fitted the seat brace and upper panel. They fit well - a little massaging to get them to line up just right, but not too bad. Test fitting, all my measurements were spot on.

This is what I cut out:
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I made a patch using a good spot from some of the metal I cut out:
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Test fitting went well - still need to do a little working to get it to fit perfect, then I'll drill holes and burn it all in.
ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1421538504.079865.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1421538521.124545.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #111
Quick update, got some free time to melt some metal...I'm crazy so I painted the not-easy-to-reach parts before they went on, even though everything is primed. 68 welds later (and about a dozen to go on the seat brace):

ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1422202644.940219.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1422202664.396202.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1422202697.021609.jpg

This 2-3 hours each week is killing me! At this rate I'll be too old to drive by the time I'm done with this car!
 

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Looking good, body/metalwork took forever on my car but I'm glad I spent the time to do it right. That thing is gonna be beautiful when it's all done
 

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Your Mustang is lookin great! Awesome progress! I can't wait to see this whole thing come together.:popcorn: Seeing other guys peace together their mustangs makes me want to work on mine waaaay more! Iowa is a little cold for any garage work right now though :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #114
Thanks guys! I've been so busy I haven't touched the mustang in a couple weeks. It's killing me!
 

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Discussion Starter #115
Finally got some time...on valentines day none the less! I finished off the welding of the rear seat brace, I'll do the grinding of welds sometime when I'm bored :). Anyway, I cut out the bulk of the roof, and got started on cleaning up the welding points. I'm taking a tip I learned on YouTube and I'm grinding away the welds than cleaning the welding surface to leave as much parent metal as possible.

Anyway, here are pictures of what was underneath the roof (surface rust, but solid - TBD if I'll replace the braces), and the damage from the jackhole that put a sunroof in her back in the day. Then one of the new roof - looks like everything should fit okay when all the old metal is gone.

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I don't want to mess up the original GT hood, but I have an extra hood. I think I'm going to look into making a hood scoop using the old roof. We will see how much I screw it up :/

ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1423975697.697501.jpg
 

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It looks like it's coming along nicely. My 70 challenger T/A is in this stage of its restoration also. Getting all the rust off, replacing body panels, lining up the body, and what not. It's a lot of work but when it's done, can't wait...


Adventure till you drop
 

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Keep up the great work buddy! I wish I had the space and equipment to do what you're doing. Good job!


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Discussion Starter #119
Thanks!

So it turns out my wife is into a new show, so poor me, I've gotten a lot of garage time! Anyway, I managed to clean up most of the welding surfaces for the roof. The tough part was getting the remainder of the roof metal out of the drip rail area without damaging the drip rail itself. It required some precision angle grinding, and I still have to do the passenger side.

There were a couple spots where the cutting wheel slipped as I was removing the roof and cut a little into the brace, so I welded them up. I also test fit the roof again, and I'm thinking it should work out well.

ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1424136666.636280.jpg ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1424136707.476477.jpg

So the safety tip of the week is to hang on to your angle grinder. I was wire wheeling, and it caught an edge and got yanked right out of my hand. Kinda scary watching it dance around on the ground - glad it missed anything important!
 
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