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Discussion Starter #1
So I noticed a funny sound from my exhaust, and while I was fixing that (turns out my one cat delete pipe wasn't really as tight as I thought it was) and so while checking the entire exhaust for tightness, I noticed that my axle back delete hangers are pushed so far back, that they touch the metal surround of the isolation hangers.

So, I seem to have three possible routes, would like opinions on what is best, and I have pictures!

So first idea is to bend the hangers backwards, so that they do not touch the metal. It seems they only touch on one side, but both sides seem like they should come back a little to keep clearance. Seems like a lot of trial and error guesswork to get them to sit right, but I usually am Pretty good at things like this.


Second idea, is can the isolation brackets be moved forward? I took a picture to show what I mean. There seems to be matching holes almost an inch and a half forward for all the screws, just not sure if this is easily doable or not. Googled this, and didn't see anything about moving them.


Third idea, is to either go to a muffler shop, or buy a stainless steel saw blade, (seems like they sell for around 130 plus, unless abrasive blades would work?) and cut the x pipe about a 1/4" shorter so that I can move the resonator pipes forward and then obviously the mufflers too.

Thoughts anyone? I would prefer option 1 or 2 first, but I am willing to do what needs to be done to make it perfect.
 

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I don't know brother. I bought a complete SLP exhaust system and had my local muffler shop install the whole setup for $80 with a $20 tip. It's perfect to this day. I would say bring it to a shop and have them do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I don't know brother. I bought a complete SLP exhaust system and had my local muffler shop install the whole setup for $80 with a $20 tip. It's perfect to this day. I would say bring it to a shop and have them do it.
I prefer to do things myself, and I dk where ya'll be livin that prices are that cheap, but around here cheapest I have found for a lot of this kind of work is around 150-200$.

Plus this seems like such a simple thing. I think I am just going to bend the exhuast hangers honestly. That seems like the easiest thing to do. Just wasn't expecting to pull my axle backs off again lol.
 

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nosympathy said:
So I noticed a funny sound from my exhaust, and while I was fixing that (turns out my one cat delete pipe wasn't really as tight as I thought it was) and so while checking the entire exhaust for tightness, I noticed that my axle back delete hangers are pushed so far back, that they touch the metal surround of the isolation hangers.

So, I seem to have three possible routes, would like opinions on what is best, and I have pictures!

So first idea is to bend the hangers backwards, so that they do not touch the metal. It seems they only touch on one side, but both sides seem like they should come back a little to keep clearance. Seems like a lot of trial and error guesswork to get them to sit right, but I usually am Pretty good at things like this.

Second idea, is can the isolation brackets be moved forward? I took a picture to show what I mean. There seems to be matching holes almost an inch and a half forward for all the screws, just not sure if this is easily doable or not. Googled this, and didn't see anything about moving them.

Third idea, is to either go to a muffler shop, or buy a stainless steel saw blade, (seems like they sell for around 130 plus, unless abrasive blades would work?) and cut the x pipe about a 1/4" shorter so that I can move the resonator pipes forward and then obviously the mufflers too.

Thoughts anyone? I would prefer option 1 or 2 first, but I am willing to do what needs to be done to make it perfect.
I had the same problem with my replacement AB.

option 1.- loosen mid pipe clamps and try to slide entire exhaust forward. Also try rotating the over axle pipes... Some manipulation there will give you some clearance.

Option 2 - manipulate hangers (bend) to gain clearance.

Option 3 - either grind the hanger bracket bottom to gain clearance, or physically move hanger bracket back (involves grinding off a location pin and elongating the bracket holes to allow it to slide using same mount points.
 

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I agree with all of nhcowboy's options. Bending the hangers will change the angle of the tips. Another option for you is to get some fuel line hose and cut a section a few inches long then cut it long ways so you can open it up. Wrap this around the section that is hitting and secure it with zip ties. This will act as a rubber insulator. I used to do this all the time when running intercooler pipes through sheet metal openings.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys. I started bending one side tonight. Worked great. Will have to bend it more tomorrow by just a tad along with the other side, ran out of daylight and I gotta go meet some friends soon.

Also my mid pipes are so close to my o/r x pipe that I had trouble getting them in position to clamp the two together.
 

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nosympathy said:
Thanks guys. I started bending one side tonight. Worked great. Will have to bend it more tomorrow by just a tad along with the other side, ran out of daylight and I gotta go meet some friends soon.

Also my mid pipes are so close to my o/r x pipe that I had trouble getting them in position to clamp the two together.
Awesome! You always figure it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Awesome! You always figure it out.
Generally I just get frustrated. So usually after I get a chance to calm down, rethink things through, bounce some ideas off people, see they agree with me, I can approach it level headed again.
 
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