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There are better parts out there sir
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I'd love any suggestions you might have. As for what I want, I'd like to retrofit some of the Track Pack features that weren't present on the GT Premium. I want to eliminate body roll and nose dive, and from what I'd been told this was the ticket. I asked the good people at AM about this and they said this kit was the one to go with if I wanted to do the Track Pack thing.
 

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Does it work? Sure it does it's job which is "improve" from stock however there are way better stuff out there which will cost more but will definitely be better.

Look at BMR products which is what I run, every single part of my suspension is BMR ( except shocks and struts) with no problems.

Now this may or may not break your budget but if you want to do all at once then it'll be worth the wait. I'll copy and paste what i wrote on another thread. I waited a year to be able to afford it all and I would do it again 5x over.


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Everything BMR Except strut mounts and shock/strut.

1. Lowering springs (obvs)

2. Koni yellow Shock and strut (stock ones aren't meant for the drop)

3. Gt500 strut mounts or cc plates ( stock ones are not reusable trust me!! )

4. LCA relocation brackets (fixes the geometry of the control arm to be parallel with ground)

5. UCA adjustable (fixes pinion angle after drop)

6. Adjustable Panhand bar (fixes geometry of the rear end since it will move to one side)

7. Non adjustable LCA


8. A 6 pack of your favorite beer



The above I feel is a must for every drop for it to be properly and safely.



Now that being said I do understand everyone has different budgets it took me a year to be able to buy all that but it was worth it.




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As Joaquin said, there are better parts out there. BMR and UPR have good stuff. Not trying to open a can of worms by recommending UPR. But I personally would go with either one of them before FRPP. Not that FRPP is bad, just not as good.
 

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First, the TrakPak package is not different from normal suspension wise...I changed out all of my 14 TrakPak suspension to suite my driving...I have used FPP in the past and have not been very happy with the "P" in performance.
Other people have given you suggestions and my only word of caution here is to put one part at a time on the car...sort it out and feel how different it is...then go on to the other part. Too many people just change everything and then it becomes almost like a dog chasing its tail...you run around in circles and achieve very little.
One other word of caution before you start changing any suspension parts is to check the carrier bushing on top of the rearend housing...my guess is that if you have very many miles on your Mustang this bushing will show cracking and separation and is a weak point when you upgrade to better LCA/UCA and panhard poly bushings. So when you change the UCA you need to take the old OEM bushing out and replace it with this...BMR Suspension EN001, Differential Bushing Kit, 2005 - 2014 Mustang | eBay
You can buy this from Summit or JEGS.
 

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my only word of caution here is to put one part at a time on the car...sort it out and feel how different it is...then go on to the other part. .

Agreed to an extent. Some parts should not be done by themselves, if you do the springs and not the shocks/ struts then they will put a lot of strain on the stock shocks/struts. I did all at once and it came out fine but if you want to follow this mindset OP then do it UCA w/ mount, shocks and strut with mount, LCA, panhand bar, lca relo, and then springs


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Agreed to an extent. Some parts should not be done by themselves, if you do the springs and not the shocks/ struts then they will put a lot of strain on the stock shocks/struts. I did all at once and it came out fine but if you want to follow this mindset OP then do it UCA w/ mount, shocks and strut with mount, LCA, panhand bar, lca relo, and then springs


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I guess I should have been more detailed...I used Eibach Sportlines and have helped 4 other 2011-2014 Mustang friends install Eibach Sportlines and in each car we never changed the struts/mounts/shocks. Mine was a TrakPak and my friends late build 2011 was also a TrakPak. I did this when the car had 3000 miles and the car is still going strong at 11000 miles. I never had an issue with alignment or clunking of strut mounts...the same with the other 4 cars. Personally if I was going to lower the car and change struts and shocks I'd go with coilovers, but that's just me. I'm not saying that changing struts/shocks/mounts is not the way to go, I'm just saying it can be done and has worked on 5 Mustangs with no issues.
So...if you are going to change the springs/struts/strut mounts/shocks, you should also change to an adjustable panhard and recenter the axle as it will change when you lower it. I'd drive it this way until the springs settle...at least 200 miles or so, then measure the pinion angle with the suspension loaded...a four poster lift is the best because it keeps the whole car and suspension level and loaded equally. If the pinion is off then I'd change to an adjustable UCA, I used Whiteline although everyone and their brother makes one. I've heard the Roush UCA is really good. At the same time you change the UCA it is a must IMHO that you get rid of the junk OE carrier bushing and use the BMR...which I think is the best you can buy. So, after you have reset the pinion angle then you can change the LCA's...a lot of people swear by the relocation brackets for the LCA mounting...I didn't use them on mine because I used adjustable LCA's and along with the adjustable UCA I set the pinion angle where I wanted it...no wheel hop, just bite...like I have done on dozens of drag cars with 3 and 4 link suspension...I don't recommend doing this unless you have done it before and know what you are doing. So, after putting another 200/300 miles on the car with all of these mods then you can start fooling around with sway bars. Unless you are going to track the car or carve corners at 2 or 3 times the posted $*##d l#@*t I would personally just leave the stock bars on. If you are going to test the cars limits then I'd go with adjustable front and rear. Whatever suspension parts you use I would suggest going with one manufacture unless you really understand the difference in everyone's components...just makes it easier.
I would also suggest following the above steps in this order, 1. Springs/struts/mounts/shocks and panhard bar. 2. Alignment 3. Measuring pinion angle. 4. UCA replace along with carrier bushing. 5. LCA 6. Sway bars
One other thing to mention here is that with all 5 cars I helped lower none of the Mustangs needed an alignment...all were within Ford Spec's. If you are going to track the car or really push it hard then caster/camber plates could be used although you really need to set them up properly to make them work. I would certainly have the alignment checked after installing the springs/struts/shocks/mounts and panhard just to make sure that it's within specs.
This is what I meant by not going whole hog and doing everything in the same weekend...and using this formula in this order to change suspension parts is what I've done for years on all my SCCA track cars...it works for me although everyone has their own opinion I do what works for me...not someone else.
 

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Yes you do need an alignment, you should not lower your vehicle and drive around without doing setting pinion angle and your stock shocks are not made for that drop and they should be upgraded. You want to do it right do what I told you, if you want to cut corners do as sir has stated above.


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I am agreeing with what young Joaquin_ii said about replacing the struts, shocks, and strut mounts...my remark was that it can be done, not that it should be done.
With the pinion angle, having the stock two piece driveshaft is much more forgiving that a single piece and with the 5 Mustangs that I've had the pleasure of helping lower only one of the cars was out of Ford Sec regarding U-joint angle. Again I'm not saying all cars don't need to be adjusted...and when you drive it to the line-up shop if the angle is far enough out you will feel the vibration. 200 miles to let the car settle should not cause any issues with the U-joint angle unless you feel a vibration. Again, this is MHO.
 

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I think the FRPP suspension is getting a bad rap. The springs and sway bars are made by Eibach. They would not tell me the exact specs, but did say it was stiffer springs/bars then Boss. I can't remember wrt eibach sports, but close, albiet different. The FRPP is a little stiff for the road and the non adjustable shocks are probably not the way to go. The nice thing about the kit is it comes with all new factory bolts. Been on the track a couple times and not unhappy with , but then i never was at the limits of the car. I also swapped out shocks for yellow konis. As they day it all depends on what ur going to do with the car. The FRPP suspension doesn't include some of the parts mentionef above, so if you go that route the FRPP sudpension may not be right for you, oe cc plates versus gt500 strut mounts.

Having said all of that, i probably wouldn't do it again for me because of the shocks and i want to run cc plates to add a little nore camber when i do go to the track. At 1in drop, cc plates are usually not required and ford includes their own camber (and caster) bolts. Much stronger than eibachs. OBYW i only paid $1100 and change because I bought suspension from dealer when I bought car.
 

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I started with the FRPAA kit - with the Steeda UCA, camber plates, and FR LCAs. It was decent on the track but I found the adjustable tokico struts in the kit unacceptable for the street and switched to Koni yellows. Much happier now. Still contemplating a Watts link but I don't get to the track enough to really warrant another thousand $.
 

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Suspension

Hi, If you can go drive a 2011-2014 gt 500! If you like the way it handles l have 11- 14 track pack suspension all 4 corners. Struts and springs shocks take offs less then 1k! Not much money 300. Just thought l'd throw this out to you. Lowers the vehicle 1" thanks Ed.
 

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I'm with most of the others, you can get a much better improvement piecing together your own "kit"
I personally would go with BMR rear components (LCA, UCA, panhard, relocation brackets)
Bilstien shocks and struts
Springs that fit your needs and wants (amount of lowering, spring rates, etc)
Either camber plates or Gt500 strut mounts (you'll have to get 05-10 style struts). Do not use camber bolts.

If after that you still feel you need sway bars you can add them later, though they should ideally only be used to fine tune understeer vs oversteer.
 
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