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Discussion Starter #1
Hi,
I found a set of GT40 Heads on Ebay for $200 + S&H. Stamped E3ZE 3-Bar
The ad says the Heads are not Drilled for EGR. I'm using the GT40 Intake with the Hole for the EGR. So would I have to have the Heads drilled for the EGR ???
Not sure what to do as I'm suppose to pay for them Friday & if they have to be drilled I'm not sure I want them. Will I have the same issue no matter what GT40 or GT40P Heads I get??? All info is appreciated!!! Thx, Dale
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Anyone ???? I can't find anything on a hole for the EGR in the Heads. I know there's a Hole in the Center of the GT40 Intake for the EGR & a hole needs to be drilled in the #5 Runner for the ACT Sensor. But I'm lost on the Heads. Anybody install GT40 Heads that had a hole for the EGR in the Heads???
 

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i did find this

There are some differences between the GT40 and GT40P cylinder heads. First off, GT40 heads are equipped with thermactor holes to connect to the EGR/smog equipment. GT40P heads are not. GT40P cylinder heads use an external EGR connective system (I believe in combination with the intake manifold). However, the latter can be drilled and tapped to accomodate the EGR ports, if that is your preference. Secondly, the GT40P has a somewhat revised combustion chamber, and different spark plug placement. Because of this, not all headers clear GT40P heads. Make sure to use a known GT40P-specific header. Regular headers can be used, but then require different spark plug wires to be used, usually ones capped with 90° boots. Furthermore, there is said to be slightly different chamber volumes. GT40 combustion chambers are slightly larger, with volumes ranging from 63-66 cc. The Explorer/Mountaineer heads (GT40P) are somewhat smaller, measured between 58-61cc chamber volume. Thus, GT40P's may give a small bump in compression. Finally, the last difference between the two are valves. Both have 1.84" intake valves, but the GT40 has a 1.54" exhaust valve whilst the GT40P cylinder heads have a slightly smaller one, at 1.46".

on here

http://www.fiveohinfo.com/performance/gt40-gt40p.html
 

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Discussion Starter #9
So are you saying the GT40 Heads can be Drilled for the EGR??? Sure hope my OEM parts are all set up with the hole for the EGR. Everyone kept telling me to make sure I got the intake with the EGR Hole or I'd have to drill it. Is there a way to tell what OEM Set up I have without removing the Intake?
 

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There is no need to drill the heads for the egr. The hole you are thinking of is for the smog pump on the back of the heads. Now would be a good time to delete the smog pump. You can use the internal egr but you would have to switch to a fox body egr spacer and throttle body set up, or just run the sn95 elbow and egr setup since its external any way.
 

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dreamstang said:
I'm sure someone else will chime in with your answer. But check the useful mustang info thread in the stickies in this section. There is some good gt40 info in there.
I do need to do some updating to the information, going to have to find the missing parts.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Remove Smog Tube

If I remove the Smog Tube Completely am I going to have lights lit up on my dash? Emissions wont even look at a car if any light is on.

---------- Post added at 04:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:18 PM ----------

I'd like to remove all the pollution crap!!!
 

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Hellish Horse said:
If I remove the Smog Tube Completely am I going to have lights lit up on my dash? Emissions wont even look at a car if any light is on.
I put the gt40p heads on my 90 and the check engine light came on because I removed all my emissions. Might be able to have a shop burn your computer to remove the check engine light.
 

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Hellish Horse said:
If I remove the Smog Tube Completely am I going to have lights lit up on my dash? Emissions wont even look at a car if any light is on.

---------- Post added at 04:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 04:18 PM ----------

I'd like to remove all the pollution crap!!!
There is a some info on the check engine light eliminator for taking out the egr in the mustang useful info in the stickies. Just taking off the smog pump shouldn't cause it to come on but it's possible.
 

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So I basically have the same question. When I looked up my set of gt40s apparently the cast ones from explorers and lightnings don't have the thermactor/smog port on them already. I have a 85 carbed I just pulled my E5s off and noticed the difference. So i see through the forum they can possibly be drilled does anybody have more info on that? Or is there a way i can reroute the system without getting codes i live in California and the smog rules are a ***** out here.
 

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Wow thread necro from hell.

An 85 is carb'd and doesn't even have a computer so why are you asking about codes? Also EGR didn't start till 1986 IIRC so if you don't have EGR then you don't have to worry about it. I'd also check to see if a car that old is exempt...

To answer the question of the orignal poster 7 years ago and this one... no you don't get non EGR heads drilled out. And for 94/95 cars those use an external EGR anyway so that person 7 years ago hopefully figured that out although GT40 heads aren't exactly economical by the time you get the heads $200, then get machine work and valvejob done $300 and then any new valve guides/seals, better spirings/keepers etc... another $200-$300. You might as well buy a new set of Trick Flow 170s at that point. I'm speaking from experience.

If you are gonna do a HCI, get TFS 170s, a cam from FTI and then either a ported lower Cobra/Explorer/GT40 intake or a good aftermarket intake.
 

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It's only 6 1/2 years....:shrug:

Maybe this is the reason for the decline in posts on automotive websites... Everything has already been discussed ad nauseam, so there are plenty of old threads that have useful information, and most people don't need to join a website to get a particular question answered anymore.

Anyway, in California any vehicle newer than 1975 is still subject to biennial emissions testing.
It's been a pet peeve of mine that they are still using 1975 as the cutoff date. In reality, a very small percentage of the population drive a vehicle that is more than 30 years old... Especially on a daily basis.
I live in a rural county in California that does not require any emissions testing. While there are quite a few of us that take full advantage of that, still, most of the vehicles that folks drive are your typical 10 year old, or newer, cars and trucks, just like everywhere else.
It's just not practical for most people to keep an old car on the road for 30+ years, and those that do generally keep them running at a state of tune which has a minimal impact on the environment.
In my opinion, all vehicles 30 years old, or older, should become exempt from emissions testing.
 
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