Mustang Evolution Forum banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
My manual has a vibration at 2500rpm when between gears or coasting in gear (no load). Ford said this was normal, after test driving the car and calling Ford N/a. I think its a harmonic vibration felt through the shifter, since it's mounted directly on the transmission. I usually don't feel it since I've changed my driving habits to avoid it. Anyone else experience this? Should I find another dealer? What could it be? I'm conserned since the MT82 has a reputation.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
744 Posts
Yes it is normal.

---------- Post added at 08:55 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:54 AM ----------

It is the cheap dual mass flywheel causing the vibration. Google "dual mass flywheel mt82" and dozens of threads will pop up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,623 Posts
Normal operation. I feel it when I let the car decel from 3k rpms. It's the weights shifting and causing a muck. Nothing to be worried about, just bad engineering decisions on Ford's part.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
I'll upgrade after the clutch gives out. Thanks for the comments! Feels like ford dropped the ball on this one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,019 Posts
Dual Mass flywheel (UGH!!!)

They put these stupid Dual Mass flywheels on most every manual
transmission car made from almost all manufactures because most of the people that buy them can't drive a stick. They are supposed to help with not burning clutches out as fast and also taking up a lot of slack saving wear and tear on the engine crank and transmission parts.

Kind of like the same principal as Ford putting that stupid 43 pound driveshaft on the V6 cars.

The only thing I hated about my John Cooper works Mini was that idiot duel mass flywheel.

Change the Clutch, Flywheel and driveshaft and I'm willing to bet that you will think you are actually driving an old time 70's muscle car. It will make that great of a difference. (That is if you know how to drive a stick properly)
Ronnie
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
326 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
I learned on a 93 civic vx. Straight clutch and small solid flywheel. Car had about 90hp at 4k rpm. If you can drive that, I bet you can drive most manuals. Engagement was about a half inch travel and would stall if you thought about dropping the clutch.

I'm excited to upgrade the drive train. Seems as though SPEC stage 1 clutch, SPEC solid aluminum flywheel and driveshaft from AM are the popular upgrade. Anyone do this themselves? I heard theres a stupid position sensor on the shaft that might need a shop computer to reset.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,019 Posts
I have not heard anything about a sensor

From what I have read on this forum. On a V6 you just undo the four bolts on the front--The four bolts on the rear of the 43 poound stock shaft and pull it out the back. Slide the Aluminum one in and replace the bolts and your done. One hour or less on a lift.

On a GT V8 you need to do a little more.

Read the Aluminum Drivshaft post right here on this V6 Forum.
http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/f356/t312401/

Ronnie:good:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
476 Posts
I just want to throw in my two cents, for what it's worth. When I installed the whiteline transmission rear mount bushing insert, the vibration at 2,500 rpm went away. That said, it was replaced by a much worse vibration that causes the mirrors to be useless when the powertrain control module sends the engine into an engine braking strategy between 2,100 and 1,800 rpm. I solved this by changing my motor mounts. No vibration now, I am guessing that the flywheel was being blamed in part for the awful bushings that ford installed on every part of this car. I still have the factory flywheel and driveshaft (rulebook reasons).
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top