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Discussion Starter #1
My car won't go into gear with the engine on. Shifts fine with engine off. Has a new clutch, fly wheel. I'm using a ford racing quadrant with an adjustable cable. Is my clutch cable stretched?
 

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Are you shifting with the clutch in or out when the car is off?
Does it grind and bounce against you or just stop when you try to shift?
Could be anything from a poorly installed clutch to a bent shift fork.
 

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WICKED STANG 83 said:
My car won't go into gear with the engine on. Shifts fine with engine off. Has a new clutch, fly wheel. I'm using a ford racing quadrant with an adjustable cable. Is my clutch cable stretched?
Does the clutch pedal feel extremely stiff?
 

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Did u adjust the clutch cable?

---------- Post added at 01:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:54 PM ----------

I would also make sure to check the cable on the side of the tranny where it goes to to see if it came undone from there......had it happen to me before -_-
 

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How much free play does the pedal have?

Press on the pedal with the ball of your hand, it should move 1 to 1-3/8" before you feel the TOB contacts the clutch spring fingers. If more than that the cable is too loose and the clutch will not fully disengage, if less than that the cable is too tight cause the TOB to compress the clutch spring too far and bind up the disc...
 

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cliffyk said:
How much free play does the pedal have?

Press on the pedal with the ball of your hand, it should move 1 to 1-3/8" before you feel the TOB contacts the clutch spring fingers. If more than that the cable is too loose and the clutch will not fully disengage, if less than that the cable is too tight cause the TOB to compress the clutch spring too far and bind up the disc...
Should the clutch pedal always have free play? I had a bit of free play and slight tob squeak, so I adjusted the clutch on the stock quadrant and tightened it 2 clicks (1 click makes tob squeak even more) am I doing more damage driving it adjusted like this?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I have tried to adjust the cable both ways. Tighter and looser. I'm afraid if I tighten it too much I'll break my throw out bearing. The car shifts while off. But with the engine off I don't need to use the clutch. The car ran well for about 2-3 weeks before it got harder to shift and then to finally to the point of not shifting at all. Every now and then I can get it to grab 1st and then attempt it again and it won't catch gear. Any idea'?
 

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WICKED STANG 83 said:
The pedal doesn't have much play. I'm using a spec stage 3 clutch and is pretty stiff.
You probably stretched your clutch cable.
 

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WICKED STANG 83 said:
Do you mean by adjusting the cable too much it caused it to go bad or become damaged?
I would like to know this too, I tend to adjust my clutch often
 

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Should the clutch pedal always have free play? I had a bit of free play and slight tob squeak, so I adjusted the clutch on the stock quadrant and tightened it 2 clicks (1 click makes tob squeak even more) am I doing more damage driving it adjusted like this?
Yes, it should have 1" to 1-3/8" free play.

The overall mechanical advantage of the clutch control system (from the pedal to the TOB) is very close to 10:1--I.e. 1" of pedal movement produces 0.1" of TOB movement. Therefore 1" to 1-3/8" pedal free play creates the recommended TOB to clutch spring clearance of 0.100" to 0.125".

The TOB will make noises when their is insufficient clearance and it is lightly/moderately loaded against the clutch spring fingers. When the cable is tightened the TOB will make heavier contact with the spring fingers and often quiet down--however it will also then be spinning, under fairly heavy load at engine speed, and wear out prematurely.

The best solution to clutch control issues is to trash the stock plastic monkey-motion quadrant and pawl, and get an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster...
 

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The pedal doesn't have much play. I'm using a spec stage 3 clutch and is pretty stiff.
Spec clutches are well known for developing all sorts of problems, including catastrophic failures (see below). It seems their quality control is lacking.

If shifting problems persist when the cable is adjusted to provide 1" to 1-3/8" free play in the pedal (see my previous post) then I would seriously consider pulling the transmission and having a good look. At least peek in through the release lever opening and see what can be seen--just to be sure...


Spec clutch failures:
 

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im having the same probrem on my cobra, its realy hard to shift, im replacing the clutch cable and quadrant this weekend, hopefully thats it
 

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WICKED STANG 83 said:
I replaced my clutch cable and now I'm grabbing gears again. Thanks for the helpful posts.
How much you pay for a new clutch cable and install?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The cable was about $45 through a local ford motorsports dealer. I put it in myself. I still need to get a firewall adjuster. Does anyone recommend a certain brand over the other? Is there really a difference?
 

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WICKED STANG 83 said:
The cable was about $45 through a local ford motorsports dealer. I put it in myself. I still need to get a firewall adjuster. Does anyone recommend a certain brand over the other? Is there really a difference?
Is it simple to put in a new cable yourself? Not much mechanic knowledge here but is it something I can achieve?
 

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NJstanger said:
Is it simple to put in a new cable yourself? Not much mechanic knowledge here but is it something I can achieve?
It's not too difficult.. Just need to jack up the driver side and have a basic set of tools. I replaced mine myself in a parking lot when mine broke haha.
 
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