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I am excited to get my 1966 Convertible back on the road. This is my first car that I bought in 1974 as a high school graduation gift. The car has been garaged for several years and in the past year I have been fixing it up to get it back on the road!
Now that I almost have it ready to drive, I am running into a problem with the car stalling out and not starting again. Asking if anyone might have answers for me.

I have a 289 V8, Automatic. Holley 2 barrel carb. Everything is pretty much stock on the car. Most recently replaced the alternator, gas tank, fuel pump and lines, new battery.

The car starts fine when cold. Battery shows a full charge and cranks well. Starts up easily and testing shows the charging system is working at 14.6v.

After driving for 10-15 minutes, if the engine stalls or is turned off, the starter won't crank well, as if the battery is low. The battery still reads 13+ volts. The headlights are bright and dim somewhat when cranking, but not a whole lot.
Jumping from a second car does not improve cranking much.
And after it sits an hour, cranking improves.

Has anyone else heard or seen a condition that, when the starter is hot, it binds and will not crank well? Is this a possibility on the Mustang, or any other ideas?
 

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Could be the starter relay solenoid. I think they're like 30 bucks.
 

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Everything seems to point to the starter. Could be a bad bearing or brushes, at any rate new starters are not all that expensive.

I am also confused as to why when the car is warmed up you have problems starting. I'm wondering if you start your car cold. Let it run for a short time only, not long enough to get the motor warm. Turn it off and try and restart? Starters get pretty warm right off so wondering if its that the starter is bad or if it has something to do with the motor being at temp.

Later tonight I will see my brother. He is a mechanic I will run it by him.
 

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I would start with the solenoid and make sure it is on a good ground and it sit tight to the fender well. Next check the ground from the engine to the firewall. These are easy to check and make sure they are really grounded and that there is no paint behind them. Next the solenoid then the starter. Is it a new battery? Did you replace the solenoid or starter before?
 

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Those starter relays on the fender well go out and will still allow the lights to function. You might unscrew it from the fender and make sure that it's not rusted and not allowing a good ground as suggested by Mlarv5. I bet it's not the starter. Double check good contact with the smaller wires that friction fit onto the starter relay.
 

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My66Pony said:
I am excited to get my 1966 Convertible back on the road. This is my first car that I bought in 1974 as a high school graduation gift. The car has been garaged for several years and in the past year I have been fixing it up to get it back on the road!
Now that I almost have it ready to drive, I am running into a problem with the car stalling out and not starting again. Asking if anyone might have answers for me.

I have a 289 V8, Automatic. Holley 2 barrel carb. Everything is pretty much stock on the car. Most recently replaced the alternator, gas tank, fuel pump and lines, new battery.

The car starts fine when cold. Battery shows a full charge and cranks well. Starts up easily and testing shows the charging system is working at 14.6v.

After driving for 10-15 minutes, if the engine stalls or is turned off, the starter won't crank well, as if the battery is low. The battery still reads 13+ volts. The headlights are bright and dim somewhat when cranking, but not a whole lot.
Jumping from a second car does not improve cranking much.
And after it sits an hour, cranking improves.

Has anyone else heard or seen a condition that, when the starter is hot, it binds and will not crank well? Is this a possibility on the Mustang, or any other ideas?
You say new fuel pump. I had similar problems because if your new fuel pump is rated with a higher psi than the stock 6 psi the car will start fine but will not start again. This do to the fact that the greater fuel pressure pushes the needle off the seat in the carb and creates a flooding condition. What carb do you have and what's it rated for psi compared to your new fuel pump.
 

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Port139 said:
You say new fuel pump. I had similar problems because if your new fuel pump is rated with a higher psi than the stock 6 psi the car will start fine but will not start again. This do to the fact that the greater fuel pressure pushes the needle off the seat in the carb and creates a flooding condition. What carb do you have and what's it rated for psi compared to your new fuel pump.
This makes sense.

+100
 

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Hey, I had the same prob first season out with my 67. My carb would flood the front float every time. It would cold start every time but wouldn't start up again if I stopped somewhere for a coffee or something. After a while of adjusting and adjusting and some more adjusting that bloody carb, I just took if off and got a new 650double pump. Prob solved. I bet like you said if you wait another 10-15 min more your car would start again right? That's just the extra fuel evaporating but you would have the same prob again down the road. Try playing around with adjustment screw in front of your carb float, if you look up Holley carb adj on YouTube you'll see how easy it is to do. If the rest of your parts are new I can bet its your carb. Good luck !!
 

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I think his original comment was a slow crank when hot, fuel would not affect that. I have heard of this where starters don't work after a hot soak. Previous reply was correct, old bearings can bind when they get hot. Do you have headers that could be making it worse? If not, I would get a new starter.
 

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Hey mat, I understand what you are saying. The reason why I mentioned my prob is cause I thought I had the same issue. As soon as the car would stall I would have to start trying to restart it and get that same reaction off the car. Felt like a weak crank, low type voltage. As soon as I let the car sit for a while it would start up again. He can just take off his air cleaner and check the carb real quick next time it happens.
 

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I guess if the fuel problem contributed to the engine not turning over we'll I could see it. Or if it caused a long crank situation. I still think most likely culprit is the starter based on the description of the symptom.
 
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