Mustang Evolution Forum banner

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
10 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
As all times I am here again for another problem...:banghead: yeah i know it's a mustang at the end but I see people having more fun with their mustangs than i am
Anyways,
I have been fighting my gear for a while and trying to convince myself that i dont know how to shift my car. ( I drive two 5.0s mine and my friend's, and I race both)
my car locks out just around 6100 rpm while my friend's lock out around 6800rpm.

I think 6800 rpm is good time to shift into next gear (that's why it does not bother friend). However, shifting around 6000 or 5900 bothers me. My car is more powerful and have 4.10 gears. Maybe, this is a reason why car locks out earlier.

I tried many times, different techniques including speed shifting power shifting but my car still locks out 1-2 at 5800 and 2-3 in around 6100 the more i grip the earlier the lock out.

car has stage 4 clutch, Ford racing short shifter and just installed Blowfish shifter support bracket. Problem is the same and nothing changes

I am installing Whiteline Transmission Mount Bushing this week I hope it fixes the problem.

if anyone has an idea let me know
:flowers:

Note: Gear-lockout is not miss shifting. I can do it as slow as I want but It will not go in next gear until rpm goes down
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,036 Posts
That's definitely low (usually lockouts occur over 7K) but the answer is the same: centrifugal force is still likely causing the clutch to hang, even though it is "stage 4". Until you replace the clutch with something that can hack this kind of rpm and power, you'll likely continue to butt heads with this. Could also be the factory throw out bearing is at its limit for you and it can't push the fingers down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,710 Posts
the clutch line and weak slave cylinder are the problem. There just isn't enough "oomph" to disengage the clutch at high (usually higher...) rpms with the stock pieces.

Also, what "stage 4" did you get, what brand, what's the torque rating... typically just buying a clutch doesn't guarantee its going to shift any better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
I'm pretty much stock and I experience gear lock out when driving aggressive. Gets irritating but, I'm sure that stainless line will fix it. Gonna order it pretty soon, will let you know how it goes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
52 Posts
Mobd3, the problems you are having seems to be inherent to a more or less degree in all our Mustangs. My '13 Boss has exactly the same issues with occasional lockout at 5500 RPM, even with slow deliberate shifts, primarily 2-3. I have the Blowfish installed which gave much better feel, but the problem persisted. I have a pile of parts to go in including an MGW Race Spec, new JC Racing fluid line and OE TOB, Mcleod RST dual disc and lightened steel flywheel, a Shelby remote fluid reservoir and a BG SynchroShift fluid change. The problem is more complex than just one part, though each thing you replace will help. I've spent a lot of time with this one on Track Mustangs and there are those that really race their cars who have voiced that they wish that they would have replaced all these things sooner rather than later because ultimately the synchronizers in the MT-82 seem to take the brunt of the punishment and many have had to replace or have their transmissions rebuilt before 30k miles. The Getrag is an excellent design with a ratio spread nearly ideal for our Mustangs, but it unfortunately got farmed out to China to be manufactured and the clutch is made in Turkey. Nothing good can come of that! I hope to finally get my Boss to my mechanic and the parts installed in the next couple weeks with any luck. I'll give a review as soon as that happens.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,757 Posts
I installed the Iso-Clutch remote reservoir kit from Shelby. Although you have to take off the cabin sound device...thought it was a joke anyway...it does separate the clutch from the brake reservoir...I never had any issue shifting above redline.
Having the brake and clutch share a hydraulic reservoir is a poor design in my book...I do understand room for the cabin sound tube prevented the use of two reservoirs...IMHO

Shelby Mustang Iso-Clutch Remote Reservoir Kit SHEL031 (10-14 All) - Free Shipping

The second picture of my old TrakPak in "view my pictures" shows the reservoir installed...looks like a factory installation.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
17,946 Posts
When the 11s dropped so many ppl laughed at longtime owners who got the automatics... hindsight is a fickle *****...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
The problem is the shifter, well known problem with this tranny. You have to get the MGW Race Spec, solid mount to tranny. I tried different brackets, bushings etc., nothing ever cured problem. MGW 1,000% better, no more missed shifts and overly thinking shifts, MGW way more intuitive.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Yup the problem is in the shifter, the clutch line is not the problem believe me ive been thru this, I finally fixed it by putting in 1st gen mgw shifter with blowfish bracket, solid motor mounts from bmr, and semi solid tranny mount, and I can shift at any rpm's like butter, the clutch line is a must upgrade and also removing the helper spring.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,757 Posts
It's not just the shifter, I used the stock shifter with a Whiteline transmission mount and never had an issue shifting above 6500rpm...although the only time I would spin my TrakPak past 6500 was for tuning because the motor doesn't make any HP/TQ above that unless you modified the motor...I did however separate the clutch reservoir from the the brake reservoir which gives the clutch its own source of hydraulic fluid and that is part of the issue, along with the clutch/pressure plate and the plastic hydraulic line...if you had plastic brakes lines do you think you'd be able to stop...doubt it.
If you had mechanical linkage to the throw out bearing and the trans won't shift or locks you out as you call it...the diaphragm fingers on the pressure plate are not strong enough to return to meet the throw out bearing...inertia and centrifugal force are keeping the clutch from working.
The reason I had automatic drag cars for over 40 years...they just work better than a manual...IMHO
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
14 Posts
Auto's are better and faster if all you do is go straight line 1/4 mile, But...I wouldnt own an auto in a 5.0, Manuals put you in control and on road courses or back road twisties the auto does not give you anything, if I am a few tenths slower by having a manual I can live with that..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9,586 Posts
Auto's are better and faster if all you do is go straight line 1/4 mile, But...I wouldnt own an auto in a 5.0, Manuals put you in control and on road courses or back road twisties the auto does not give you anything, if I am a few tenths slower by having a manual I can live with that..

Never drove a properly setup auto with a stall obviously.


Sent from my iPhone using Mustang Evolution
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,757 Posts
Auto's are better and faster if all you do is go straight line 1/4 mile, But...I wouldnt own an auto in a 5.0, Manuals put you in control and on road courses or back road twisties the auto does not give you anything, if I am a few tenths slower by having a manual I can live with that..
Don't get me wrong, I really liked my 14 TrakPak but obviously you haven't done much if any drag racing nor driven a well setup automatic. One of the guys on this forum had a mildly mod'd Coyote with the exception of a good converter and turned 11.2 in the quarter...what can you manual do????
Although I have raced SCCA with a manual transmission my Mini in sport mode can probably give you a run for you money on twisty roads...with the six speed automatic.
Oh, buy the way...a couple of tenths in the quarter would mean you'd be watching someones tail lights...from three to four car lengths behind them most of the way down the 1320.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4,516 Posts
One of the guys on this forum had a mildly mod'd Coyote with the exception of a good converter and turned 11.2 in the quarter...what can you manual do????
.
The problem is more than half of the dd manual people can't shift for **** on a track, or on the street, Youtube is a perfect example.
Get someone that can actually drive a stick vs an auto.


LG G4
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
34 Posts
Its much more about the entire driving experience vs. absolute numbers for me. I feel much more involved in driving my cars with manuals vs. autos. But then my Mustang is purely for pleasure driving and 80% on rural roads. My DD's are autos, don't like manuals for city driving.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,757 Posts
Its much more about the entire driving experience vs. absolute numbers for me. I feel much more involved in driving my cars with manuals vs. autos. But then my Mustang is purely for pleasure driving and 80% on rural roads. My DD's are autos, don't like manuals for city driving.
A properly geared Mustang is a joy to drive in the city...unless you are talking a city like L.A./Chicago/New York. My old 14 TrakPak with 3:73's was easy to drive in the city.
Anyone who has not drag raced or road raced has no idea about the entire driving experience...IMHO
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,240 Posts
I am interested in trying out a modern automatic where you can shift them for yourself. From what I've read they are what I would like. A decent amount of control on two lane blacktop yet the ability to let the car do it for you when you are just commuting.
 
1 - 20 of 27 Posts
Top