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Discussion Starter #1
I was looking around and I was wondering about a few things. I know there's alot of problems with the clutches on these cars and the throw out bearing. So the big question yes its expensive but would the hydraulic clutch kit be better in regards to longer tob life?
 

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Not sure if this helps at all... I have a 96 F150 that has a hydronic clutch. I have put 2 TOB in. However.... it was a common problem for trucks of that era. I finally figured out that my pilot bearing was bad, and kept tearing out the TOB. Bought a whole clutch kit. PB, TOB, clutch, PP and slave cylinder. Haven't had a problem in over 3 years.
 

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IDK about the transmissions on the trucks but i absolutely hated the hydraulic clutch on my contour svt! You dont want a hydraulic clutch if your into drag racing or any other hard driving cause slave cylinders are very fragile. At least they were in my svt. plus everything is pressurized and ran with fluid instead of being mechanical. The hydraulics are run utilized your break system. This means theres a lot more that can go wrong and its a lot more expensive to fix it when it does go wrong.
 

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I was looking around and I was wondering about a few things. I know there's alot of problems with the clutches on these cars and the throw out bearing. So the big question yes its expensive but would the hydraulic clutch kit be better in regards to longer tob life?
I was not aware there were "...alot of problems with the the clutches..." on our cars. Unless seriously abused they run 90k to over 100k miles.

Their is nothing magic about hydraulic clutch control, it's just a different and more complex way of transferring work from the clutch pedal to the TOB--read more about that here...
 

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Let me re-phrase that the tob mine is shot and i heard a lot of people having the same problem. I can do the clutch freeplay mod but i want something long term fix.I hate having noise from under my car make me sound like a loser in my opinion whats the point of having a nice car if it going to sound like crap while running?
 

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buickregal79 said:
Let me re-phrase that the tob mine is shot and i heard a lot of people having the same problem. I can do the clutch freeplay mod but i want something long term fix.I hate having noise from under my car make me sound like a loser in my opinion whats the point of having a nice car if it going to sound like crap while running?
True, but I don't think being classified as a "loser" for having a squeak under your car is necessary
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I am not saying people with any noise under there car is a loser, i meant that's how i feel, almost like i don't take care of my car or something. You never hear a car with a odd grinding noise or squeal and say why don't they just get it fixed?
 

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Let me re-phrase that the tob mine is shot and i heard a lot of people having the same problem. I can do the clutch freeplay mod but i want something long term fix.I hate having noise from under my car make me sound like a loser in my opinion whats the point of having a nice car if it going to sound like crap while running?
What year is your car, how many miles on it?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
2001 with 54,000 miles with factory clutch
 

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2001 with 54,000 miles with factory clutch
The factory clutch and TOB have held up for nearly 12 years, what sort of service life are you looking for? :)

Greases all harden up over time (actually the oil weeps out of the base/binder, and drys, leaving the grease base behind) and when that happens whatever the grease was intended to lubricate gets noisy and in a while wears out. The TOB in my '03 made it a bit over 7 years and 110k miles before becoming noisy (and I agree embarrassing). The grease dried out because it got old--this is most likely the case in your situation.

In my case and probably yours the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel all had useful life remaining however I used it as an excuse to install a lightweight flywheel and upgrade the clutch, and installed a new FRPP TOB quite confident that it would have a good run of at least another 7 years/100k miles

In the immediate, how much free play is in the pedal? It should be 1" to 1-3/8", as the mechanical advantage of the pedal, quadrant and release lever is very close to 10:1; leaving the specified 0.100" to 0.125" clearance between the TOB and clutch spring fingers.

Have you used the semi-automatic adjuster to set the cable tension--here's a write-up on how to do that and how to manually override the automatic adjustment.

To really make it better get an aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. I have UPR's 3-hook quadrant and their Quick-Click adjuster, and would not go back to the OEM plastic monkey-motion rig if someone paid me to do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thats true i just want to make sure what i put back in the call will last just as long again! And i will most definitely be replace stock cable set up with an adjustable one.
 

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Thats true i just want to make sure what i put back in the call will last just as long again! And i will most definitely be replace stock cable set up with an adjustable one.
You will get mixed reviews of adjustable cables, though in my experience the reported failures have been due to improper installation of the cone and jam nuts on the adjustment stud. People (including many "mechanics") have incorrectly installed them with one nut on each side of the release lever as shown below:



This does not allow the adjustable stud to pivot in the release lever and concentrates stress in the cable at the point it is crimped to the stud--this makes the cable break in short order:



The proper mounting is as shown below, with both nuts on the rear of the release lever:



Installed properly the adjustment stud is free to pivot in the release lever keeping a clean axial load on the cable.

If you have a firewall adjuster you do not need an adjustable cable. I have found the ATP cable sold by Autozone and many FLAPS to be a fine replacement; identical to the Ford cable in quality and construction, reasonably priced and readily available...
 

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In addition, I'd like to add that you should shim up your aftermarket quadrant so that the cable lines up right in the valley of your quadrant. Having the cable misaligned with the quadrant is another cause of early failure in the cables.

View attachment 74178
 

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^ Good advice!

I would also suggest that any sharp edges on the quadrant, with which the cable might make contact, be slightly radiused to prevent stress concentration. The stock cable on my '03 broke after 78k miles of using UPR's triple-hook quadrant because I failed to do this.

Here is a photo of the break:



And of the fix:



I also deepened the groove to ensure that the cable was not making abrupt contact with the unused hook. 30k miles on the new cable now (an ATP from Advance Auto Parts) and it looks good as new...
 

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I think I'm gonna pop mine off this weekend and take a look. I didn't even think about the second hook digging into the cable. Good info!
 
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