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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Compared side by side, you'd pick the Boss 302 Intake all day long based on looks alone! You can also see the locations of the retaining bolts in these pics. Admittedly, we got in a hurry & forgot to check the inlet opening sizes, but we'll get that info for you soon.





Okay, stop staring at the intake & get ready to put it on. Set the fuel rails in to place on the Boss intake & engage the injectors in to their respective ports. As you can see, the stock fuel rails clear just fine. This also illustrates the vast difference in the intakes, as the front crossover tube used to be above the throttle body!



The new intake comes with gaskets already installed, so all you have to do is set the Boss Intake on the heads & finger tighten the 6 retaining bolts. At the back of the intake, only the outer 2 of the 4 wiring harness retainers have a spot to attach, go ahead & affix them to the intake.




Slide in the 4 fuel rail retaining bolts & finger tighten those as well. Torque the 6 Intake bolts to 89in-lb using the following sequence.




Torque the 4 fuel rail retaining bolts to 89in-lb using the following sequence.




Plug in all the injector electrical connectors, connect the fuel supply line, & reinstall the foam sound deadeners. Set the booster vacuum tube in to place & reinstall both plastic heater hose brackets.




Re-attach the throttle body. Doesn't that Nitrous Plate just look baller? Nitro Dave & the crew & Nitrous Outlet take their nitrous seriously.




In its stock orientation, the brake booster hose won't want to cooperate when trying to attach it to the Boss Intake.




Twist it around like so & it will go on kink free. Remember to have you 2 pair of pliers & a friend ready for this step.




Re-attach the breather tube. See that loose connector hanging there in the breeze? That is for your purge valve, which we'll cover next.




The purge valve. Its purpose is to vent fuel tank vapor in to the intake manifold during certain operating conditions. All we've seen on the 'net so far is that one company left it dangling. Well, that is an option. You car does not need it to run. However, in my experience, this will cause the check engine light to illuminate. On the stock intake, the purge valve attached directly to the intake behind the throttle body. On the 2012 Boss 302, the purge valve is located on the driver side rear of the intake & it is plumbed a little differently. You can get the correct Boss hoses, purge valve & bracket for just under $200 when they are available, but they are not currently available. Plus, you'll still have to lengthen your wiring harness to reach the new purge valve on the other side of the motor. While this is the most correct way to complete the install, it didn't help us at all right now. So good old southern ingenuity kicked in & we determined that if we made a run to the parts store to acquire an M8x1.25 bolt with some washers, 2 feet of fuel/emissions hose, & some hose clamps, we'd be in business & functioning as intended. So here is our fix. Is it ideal, no, but there is nothing wrong with it either. It gets the job done for now until something new comes about.

Squeeze on the 3/8" fuel/emisson hose. It is a tight fit, but apply a little lube & it will go on. Put on a clamp & tighten it down.




Remove the rubber insulators as they won't be needed. Using a bolt, a flat washer, & a lock washer (the lock washer goes between the head of the bolt & the flat washer) attach the purge valve to the engine block. It was kind of hard to get a good pic of this, but hopefully you get the gist. Plug the electrical connector back in & re-connect the purge line.



Run the fuel/emission hose under the neck of the intake & connect it to the remaining open port on the driver side of the intake, clamping the connection.



It has been widely reported that the Steeda cold air intake will not fit with the Boss 302 manifold, but I'm happy to report that it darn sure will. Now don't get me wrong, it's not a slide it on & done type of deal, but you can make it fit. We didn't even cut anything. Yes, there is a .75" nitrous plate installed on this car, but I can't help but think that only made the fitment a bit more difficult, if anything. Take your time & have an extra set of hands around to help tighten clamps or hold the intake in place. Supposedly the JLT CAI fits a little better, we'll be finding out for sure soon.






Oh, & don't even bother trying to re-use your stock strut tower brace. We'll be trying several different varieties & listing which ones fit in the description of the Boss Manifold.




Because of the difference in airflow this intake provides, a custom tune will be necessary. We do have the required tune available as we speak, so no worries there! Load you new custom tune in your Mustang & start it up. It will sound a little angry at first as she re-learns everything, but it'll smooth right out & you'll be on the road enjoying your newfound power! Speaking of power, we we're unable to get to the dyno, but we'll be posting #s as soon as we have the ability to do so.

We offer the intake by itself:
2011-2012 Mustang 5.0L Ford Racing Boss 302 Intake Manifold, M-9424-M50BR

or with the required custom tune:
2011-12 Mustang 5.0L Ford Racing Boss 302 Intake Manifold M-9424-M50BR With BBR Custom Tune




Don't forget to paint your coil covers, or replace them with the Blue FRPP Coil Covers to complete the Boss 302 appearance!
 

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Wow-I'm salivating..! :eek: And thank you-and do post those dyno numbers-please! :good:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Dyno numbers have been all over the place with this. Still do not have any numbers with the N20 yet, but without it we were able to lay down 420/379. I have seen it as high as 441/400.
 

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I just followed this guide for my Boss 302 Intake Manifold install, and there are a couple of concerns/issue that I would like to bring up.

1. You should not install the fuel rails until the intake manifold has been seated and the bolts torqued. There is no way to get a straight socket onto the front bolts with the the fuel rails in place. This prevents you from accurately torquing the bolts to spec. It is very easy to put the fuel rails on with the manifold on the heads.

2. Ensure that you depressurize the fuel system. No matter what anyone tells you, it WILL shoot all over the place and wrapping a towel around it is not sufficient.

3. The stock airbox and tube DO NOT WORK with the Boss intake manifold. I was not able to find this information anywhere prior to my install, so perhaps I am the first person to try it, but it just isn't possible. After screwing with if for about an hour and a half I was able to get my hood shut, but it's not pretty and putting a lot of stress on the hood and intake, as well as a part of the intake is being shoved into a metal part of the cooling system and was already starting to melt after a 10 min drive.

I will post pictures tomorrow illustrating why the stock intake does not fit, and what I had to do as a temporary fix (my Mustang is grounded until I get a CAI, I'm not comfortable squishing the intake and putting undue stress on the hood/latch).
 

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I was chatting with a guy from Lethal Performance (Lethal Tim I believe) and he actually advised AGAINST the Boss 302 Manifold, said it was more or less a waste of money UNLESS you changed the heads and cams as well, apparently the Boss 302 has different heads and cams than our 5.0's. Dont shoot me, but I have to listen to a guy who makes commission off of his sales when he says its a waste of money.
 

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M3to5.0 said:
Sorry, I just joined the site today.... if nothing else it LOOKS cool...lol
You speak the truth! In my circles their is a kid who spent about $2k getting that Boss intake installed on his '11 5.0 and I still ran him down from a rolling 30mph. Maybe his tune was wack or maybe he can't shift for **** but I would've expected him to at least have the edge.
 

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The boss shows gains from 5000 to 7800 and if u have a good tune it's definetly worth it. My boss is only going to cost me 400$ as I am going for full bolt on and need all the other mods anyway. And custom dyno tune is the way to go to maximize your gains!
 
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