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Discussion Starter #1
Well, i installed my amp/subs today. i used a line output converter and my factory stereo. everything moved smooth, and i was done very quickly. i wired the power, ground and remote first, and tested the amp, and it powered on fine. but i think my remote wasnt wired correctly because it didnt turn off with the car(i was lazy and used the fusebox).

But i installed the rest of the stuff, and i happened to look at the amp, and it had turned off. and i havent been able to get it back on yet. it was dark already, so i didnt have much time to check it out, but i checked all the fuses, and the ground/power connections and they were good. anyone have any suggestions or advice?? the power supply is pretty loose, because it was getting dark so i kinda ghetto rigged onto the terminal, but it is definetly connected, because it was getting power earlier. please help because i leave town tomorrow afternoon!
 

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Check your remote wire, does anything else in the car not work corerectly? Lights anything?

Make sure the fuses on the amp arent blown.

Make sure you didnt tocuh ground and power wires togethe...


just double check everything and anything and do some trouble shooting
 

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Did you use a wire tester on your installation? Hope so.. Also, if you can pull the deck out its not much harder than jerry riggin' it to the fuse box. I would do everything that Brent said first and if that doesn't work try another remote wire spot. Also make sure you have a decent ground. What I did is ground it to the frame of the car inside, but first I sanded down the area to get the paint off. Good luck.
 

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Yeh, like they said just double check all your connections. It could be a loose ground, or a loose aux power line. Just check it all and make sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
i double checked everything last night, it all looks good. my first thought was a bad ground, but the power worked earlier, and i didnt change anything with the ground. i used a bolt already on the frame and i sanded the paint off. i need to get a multimeter and test the voltages to be sure i guess.

would the remote keep the amp from turning on? i put the wire in the fuse holder for the cd player, and pushed the fuse back in. and i did get power when i turned the cd player on, until it stopped working. but i feel its so ghetto rigged that it could be the problem...
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok, here is an update.

now im really frustrated. now the amp will work, sometimes. if i unplugged the fuse that the remote wire is plugged into, then put it back in, that will usually turn the amp back on(regardless if the car is on or not). and then it will seemingly turn off at random. if i pull and tug on the power, remote, or ground wire, it wont turn off. but if i try to adjust the gain on the amp, or the level of the input on my converter, then it will turn on, and not come back on until i remove and plug back in the fuse. wtf!!!

and my subs are not hitting hard at all, they sound rrrreally weak. i figured they would, since im using a stock deck that has less power than an aftermarket unit, but i didnt think it would be that bad.
 

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Sounds like either your amp is bad or your amp is now getting enough power that it needs.


Your headunit power has nothing to do with the amps power.

What kind of amp is it.

I highly recommend getting a aftermarket headunit, even a cheap one as long as it has RCA out and a remote wire so that your amp turns on when you turn the cd player on.
 

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just running it to the fuse box wont work... they are all hot all the time if i remember correctly. you may have poped a fuse.... you can trace a key hot wire pretty easy though if you want you can run it off the rear defroster... just pull the wire stright up to it from behidn the dash... not easy but if you run a peice of metal wire down though a hole and then tie the wire to it you can pull it though like that (you may have to remove the gauge pod to get the wire up there... but its not hard)

use a tester to find the key hot wire.
 

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if the amp turns on but turns off in a few seconds, you need a better grounding spot. the amp itself turning on means that the remote is hooked up fine, and its getting power. how long is youre grounding cable? it should be as short as possible, 3 feet at max. what gauge wire are you running from your battery to the amp? cause you should be running at least 8guage wire, i use 2ga.

also make sure the remote wire youre using is NOT the wire that comes bundled to the RCA wires. that is NOT for the remote leads, that is for a rca ground if you have one, which most amps dont yet. your RCA's should be at least 2 inches apart from youre remote and battery cable at all times, or else you could hear a hum or whine with engine speeds.
 

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How did you wire this sub up?

It almost sounds like you may have been running the amp at a lower ohm than it can handle and you fried the amp.

What are the sub specs and what is the amp you have?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
thats what i was thinking. it seems like my amp is shutting itself in defense, the only time it shuts off now is when i either adjust the gain on the amp, or the input level on the converter.

im not sure of the specs on the amp, i know that they are 125 watt rms. my amp is 400watt x2. im not sure of the ohms on either. i have the subs wired in series.
 

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Have you checked your ground real well? I had to basically create my own ground in my car to make it work correctly because of the wattage I was pulling. Also, 2 gauge wiring makes a difference.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
also, on one of the speaker inputs, the allen screw is missing, so i had to tape the wire to the input, and it kinda bounces around in there. someone told me that could be triggering the amp to turn off as well??
 

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I would almost put money on it being a bad ground... My s10 used to have that problem every so often... Make sure the connection at the end up the ground is touching only metal. (not paint, rust, etc) You may have to grind down that spot to remove any paint, oxidation, rust and so on. You can put a little wire brush on to a cordless drill to clean the metal off, make the area a bit bigger than the connector at the end of the negative... Let me know if it worked...
 

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BuddyLee said:
also, on one of the speaker inputs, the allen screw is missing, so i had to tape the wire to the input, and it kinda bounces around in there. someone told me that could be triggering the amp to turn off as well??
What kind of subs are these??? Amp??? If you can tell me the model number I can get specs... I cant believe your wiring these up without knowing the specs or if the subs are dual or single voice coil and what ohm they are
 

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Discussion Starter #18
the subs are mtx road thunder, and the amp is a profile california 400watt x2. i ran the exact same setup on my integra a few years ago, and i had it setup the same way. i just forgot the numbers but i remembered how i had it set up. but i used an aftermarket head unit with that, and spliced my remote wire into the back of the harness.
 

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BuddyLee said:
the subs are mtx road thunder, and the amp is a profile california 400watt x2. i ran the exact same setup on my integra a few years ago, and i had it setup the same way. i just forgot the numbers but i remembered how i had it set up. but i used an aftermarket head unit with that, and spliced my remote wire into the back of the harness.
Like they say check the ground... I still think it may be the amp going bad.

Road Thunders can be single or dual voice coil. Which are yours?

Can you show me the diagram you used to wire it or show me how you wired it up
 

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You know what I think it is after reading all these post is, I think you have speaker wires grounding themselves out somewhere. Meaning the positive and negetives are touching somewhere causing your amp to shut down. This was happening to one of my friends car and he didn't know what was going on. Check and see if somewhere the wires are touching, it usually happens on the amp due to the connections being so close together. On some amps this will shut the amp of until you turn the key off and back on again and on others it will cut the sound out for about 10 secs and then reset and kick the sound back on.
 
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