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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
My stock clutch slipped hard and flywheel was glazed so I swapped it out with a spec billet steel flywheel and exedy Mach 500 stage 3 clutch kit. Only thing I kept was the TOB as I had no noise and engagement/disengagement with stock clutch was great. Anyways after installed I'm having to play with it to get it into first at times. Always have to put the clutch pedal to the floor to disengage the clutch. It just doesn't feel like its fully disengaging. I even tried bleeding it per ford manual with a vacuum pump and it didn't help. Anyone else run into issues like this with a clutch replacement? I'd hate to have to drop the transmission again to shim the tob. Talked to American Muscle who I got the parts from and all they did was direct me to call exedy. Exedy said to bleed it with a pump and that 1.5inch from the floor is normal en/disengagement for their clutches...
 

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AmericanMuscle.com
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My stock clutch slipped hard and flywheel was glazed so I swapped it out with a spec billet steel flywheel and exedy Mach 500 stage 3 clutch kit. Only thing I kept was the TOB as I had no noise and engagement/disengagement with stock clutch was great. Anyways after installed I'm having to play with it to get it into first at times. Always have to put the clutch pedal to the floor to disengage the clutch. It just doesn't feel like its fully disengaging. I even tried bleeding it per ford manual with a vacuum pump and it didn't help. Anyone else run into issues like this with a clutch replacement? I'd hate to have to drop the transmission again to shim the tob. Talked to American Muscle who I got the parts from and all they did was direct me to call exedy. Exedy said to bleed it with a pump and that 1.5inch from the floor is normal en/disengagement for their clutches...
Jukens,

It sounds like Exedy definitely pointed you in the right direction. I would just check a few more things. Make sure there's no Air in the lines and then unfortunately your last option would be to replace the Slave Cylinder.

I hope this helps, let me know if we can be of any assistance!

-Dan
 

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Clutch issue, post-new pre-reqs: How was the pilot bearing in the crank when you did the clutch and did you use locating pins and not just the bolts to install the PP? Also, what condition was the input shaft retainer and did you give it a very light coat of grease?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Redid the entire installation and rechecked over everything and its the same. Disengagement is maybe an inch from the floor and getting into first is still stiff when I'm not moving. If I'm moving shifting is completely smooth even downshifting.

---------- Post added at 07:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:09 PM ----------

Clutch issue, post-new pre-reqs: How was the pilot bearing in the crank when you did the clutch and did you use locating pins and not just the bolts to install the PP? Also, what condition was the input shaft retainer and did you give it a very light coat of grease?
Pilot bearing is new. The pins are installed. Everything looked good and was lubricated.
 

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Ok, weird shyt:

How were the witness marks on the diaphragm fingers, even or tweaked to one side or another? Sure the trans is not hanging on something on the face of the bellhousing that's holding it proud of the flange slightly?

Next, change the clutch line for a higher volume one from JHR or similar. maybe you're just outside the parameters of the stocker because yours is extra restrictive, or whatever.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, weird shyt:

How were the witness marks on the diaphragm fingers, even or tweaked to one side or another? Sure the trans is not hanging on something on the face of the bellhousing that's holding it proud of the flange slightly?

Next, change the clutch line for a higher volume one from JHR or similar. maybe you're just outside the parameters of the stocker because yours is extra restrictive, or whatever.
Fingers looks good and even. Transmission is flush mounted. Might try a different clutch line. Just a little frustrating. Anyone else running a exedy clutch?
 

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I would call the company that makes the clutch. I know that some high performance clutches for these things require the hydraulic linkage to be removed and replaced with a cable style for adjustment reasons. Also if you didn't use a torque wrench and lock tight for the pressure plate install than you better start punning it back apart.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Azure said:
Is your engine built? I'm just wondering why you went with such a high torque clutch? Stage 3 is good for ~734lbs of torque. Maybe that is too much for the stock hydraulic setup. Maybe you need to upgrade to something like the Exedy hydraulic TOB.

http://www.americanmuscle.com/exedy-tob-slavecylinder-0513.html
Stage 2 wasn't enough. That's flywheel torque numbers. Also exedy told me their TOB that they sell is the factory ford part.
 

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Yep, I really think you need to look at the clutch line...it's marginal in stock applications.

If that doesn't get 'er going, it's new TOB. They do tend to settle over time and you might not be getting full extension. I know they are kind of pricey but, I'm betting the frustration is worse.
 

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Yep, I really think you need to look at the clutch line...it's marginal in stock applications.

If that doesn't get 'er going, it's new TOB. They do tend to settle over time and you might not be getting full extension. I know they are kind of pricey but, I'm betting the frustration is worse.
Are the stock hydraulic lines stainless? If not, that might help keep pressure up by switching to stainless. They do that to brake lines often as an upgrade to performance.
 

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Stock lines are plastic.
 
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