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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Recently im doing brake pad replacement, along the way i noticed my piston boot is ripped so i had to get new calipers and some newI banjo bolt washers. One of the pack came in all black, not sure if its still okay to use or should i get new ones? also whats up with ford putting 7 in a pack when they know we need 8 to get the job done.....
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks, i used vinegar and salt to clean it up oxidation. Is it okay to use permatex copper anti seize lubricant on back of the brake pad? im seeing some mix thoughts on these. I watched chrisfix video on how to change your brake pad/caliper and he recommended permatex copper anti seize lube on back of the pad. Is this stuff safe with piston boot? When i apply it on back of the pad i cant help seeing it getting smeared on the piston boot. Should i wipe it off?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
When I buy pads, they usually come with lube, and I use that. If they don’t come with lube, I use PTFE lube. However, I doubt there’s any great concern to worry about with the copper compound, but I haven’t ever used it or researched it myself.

Knowing how thoroughly you research this type of thing, I expect you will be the one to school ME :ROFLMAO:
Yea not sure why chrisfix or ericthecarguy would suggest this, it was bugging the hell out of me i end up jacking my car taking out the pad and caliper cleaned it all down after work. I get out pretty late after 10 and end up spending 3 hours working on it lol.
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
So this is my first brake job and so far everything went well. While i was working on it i noticed the brake pad back plate had 3 small protruding metal nipple that would rub against the piston boot when you slide it on and probably pushing against it while operating. Whats the point of the 3 nipples? Wont that damage the rubber boot in the long run? I had to replace both of my front caliper due to ripped boot not sure if its related this is.

Another question is recently i got some wheel lock nut. The manual says to just take one lug nut out and replace it with the lock nut but my question is wouldnt cause wrap rotor? Normally you have to torque each lug hut using star pattern to create even pressure on the rotor to prevent warpping.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I circled it in the pic, they are about 2-3mm tall, the rubber boots definitely sits on top of it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Unless there is some direct evidence that it’s actually causing accelerated wear at the points of contact, I wouldn’t stress over it much. Just drive it a while, and pull them for inspection if needed. You might call PowerStop and discuss your concerns with them. They may offer some sort of solution to mitigate unwanted friction.

Also, there nothing wrong with coating the contact area on/around those bumps with PTFE grease to eliminate any friction at that point.
Yea i applied the lube that came with the pad to the back plate. Did oem pad had these i dont remember, might check it tomorrow.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
The oem pad are the same and the nipples are even abit taller. I have a question about front dual piston caliper. noticed i had a slight brake fluid leak at driver wheel, turned out to be my speed bleeder screw not all the way tight. At the same time i also took the pad out, noticed one of the dual piston was slightly taller( less compressed) than the other one. Since the brake caliper replacement, rotor and brake fluid change the car has not been driven. I did manage to slide the caliper back on without compressing the one slight rise piston. Will this be okay? Will piston make contact with pad evenly once i pump my brake to bleed the brakes or break in my pad?
 
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