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Discussion Starter #1
What's up guys! I just purchased a 1997 Mustang GT. This is the 5th mustang I have owned however it's the first I have had with an S/C setup. I just wanted to get a few outside opinions on it. Sorry for the long post in advance:

More about the car:
4.6L - Dash reads 60k miles
-Wynjammer Supercharger (I have done my research, I know it no vortech)
-MSD Ignition
-SVO Red top Injectors
-Aluminum Fuel Rails
-Aeromotive fuel pump
-Aeromotive Regulator
-BBK Ceramic Coated Long Tube Headers
-K&N Cold Air Intake
-Fuel Pressure, Temp, A/F, and Boost Gauges
-Line Lock
-Ram HDX Clutch Kit
-Tremec 3650 Transmission
-Tubular K Member
-Caster Camber Plates
-Frame Connectors
-Driveline Hoop
-Rear Sway Bar
-X Pipe

I’ll try to list everything I know:

Purchased the car on 02/20/2016
Drove it approx. 120 miles home (back to the valley) with no noticeable problems.

Took it in for emissions: Failed because they couldn't get a read from the OBD. Took it to a shop to have the harness rewired (disconnected red wire). Shop solved the problem and scanned the OBD and said no errors came up. Went back to emissions and they still couldn't get a read. "Something about them having a mechanical emissions reader and the shop not?" I was able to get it registered for 5 years so I got that problem solved.

The guy I bought it off of owned to for a year. He owns a performance shop in Prescott Valley. He said it had been sitting for 5 years after the owner before him passed away. So when he bought it he did -8 braided fuel lines and rebuilt the injectors. Bought the car "as is (with all mods already installed)" from the person that passed away. Has a stock rear end (which I was kind of uneasy about). Has a low slump fuel tank with an analog boost gauge. Looks like it’s pushing about 8-10 lbs. of boost. He assumed there was a tune on it because of the aftermarket o2 sensors (whatever that means?).

A few questions I have:

I've put about 350 miles on it since I purchased it on 02/20/16. One thing I have noticed was the center console tend to generate more heat than my previous mustangs. Is the excess heat coming from the long tube headers?

Also, ONLY when I fill the tank all the way it will start to leak. The leaking stops once the tank gets to about 3/4 of a tank so i tend to run it just above 1/4 then put about 15.00$ in to keep it under full. Is this a common problem in mustangs? Or do I have a puncture and have to get a new tank.

When idling my A/F gauge shows that the car is running lean. Also when driving there isn't much of a change. What do I want my A/F to be reading and what are problems that could be causing it to run lean?

What type of general maintenance needs to be done on cars with forced induction? Aside from general fluid flush, brakes, etc. How often should I be getting the car serviced?

Finally, does anyone know of any reputable performance shops in the Phoenix, Arizona area? I've seen a few online but nothing has jumped out at me.

Thanks to those who take the time to read and reply in advance. I look forward to hearing you're thoughts and opinions!!!

Thanks
 

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Read through your first post and wanted to say congrats on a pretty cool car. I love that color. That is one of my favorite colors they ever put on a SN95. I'm sure the Arizona sun has made its mark on the clear coat as I can see in a few spots but I'm sure you plan on one day getting that all addressed once you figure out the other stuff. Please don't change the color!

Alright I'm no expert, and there are a few on here that are and will help you more than I but here is my opinion.

The heat, def from the LT's. I've had a few sets on a few cars and it is always super warm where they run. You can always do some header wrap or install a heat shield under the car. I've even had luck with dynamat extreme in the cabin in that area.

The gas tank...yeah I can't imagine that's normal. My guess is that something to do with EGR or emissions was disconnected or a vent hose rotted. Either way, if I were you I'd drop the tank and inspect it. Leaking gas is not cool.

I won't really try to speak to the lean issue you have. Sounds like it probably needs some tuning and this also might play a role in the extra heat you have. Idk.

Anyway sweet car man. Post a pic of the engine bay.
 

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When you say lean, what is the actual numbers it's reading) most cars idle around stoic (14.3/1) mine personally bounces between 14.3 and 15.1 at idle and when cruising. When under full boost you want that to dip into the mid 11s and stay there. Either way I would recommend finding a dyno shop and checking to see how safe the tune is.

Is the gas leaking from the passenger side of the tank? It's pola ly the fuel filler neck grommet that's leaking. It's located right where the filler neck meets the gas tank is a pretty common problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Read through your first post and wanted to say congrats on a pretty cool car. I love that color. That is one of my favorite colors they ever put on a SN95. I'm sure the Arizona sun has made its mark on the clear coat as I can see in a few spots but I'm sure you plan on one day getting that all addressed once you figure out the other stuff. Please don't change the color!

Alright I'm no expert, and there are a few on here that are and will help you more than I but here is my opinion.

The heat, def from the LT's. I've had a few sets on a few cars and it is always super warm where they run. You can always do some header wrap or install a heat shield under the car. I've even had luck with dynamat extreme in the cabin in that area.

The gas tank...yeah I can't imagine that's normal. My guess is that something to do with EGR or emissions was disconnected or a vent hose rotted. Either way, if I were you I'd drop the tank and inspect it. Leaking gas is not cool.

I won't really try to speak to the lean issue you have. Sounds like it probably needs some tuning and this also might play a role in the extra heat you have. Idk.

Anyway sweet car man. Post a pic of the engine bay.
Thanks for the reply!! I'm pretty satisfied with it. At first I was planning on doing a matte black paint job on it but once I actually saw it in person I fell in love with it!

As far as the heat goes, now that I know for sure its the headers I'm not necessarily worried about it... The heater core has been by bypassed do the header heat coming through will be my source of heat in the winter;) haha

Again, thanks for the reply! I'll get a pic of the bay up when I get back to my desktop!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When you say lean, what is the actual numbers it's reading) most cars idle around stoic (14.3/1) mine personally bounces between 14.3 and 15.1 at idle and when cruising. When under full boost you want that to dip into the mid 11s and stay there. Either way I would recommend finding a dyno shop and checking to see how safe the tune is.

Is the gas leaking from the passenger side of the tank? It's pola ly the fuel filler neck grommet that's leaking. It's located right where the filler neck meets the gas tank is a pretty common problem.
Thanks for the reply! I have no way of know it's exact A/F ratio numbers. It's an analog so it shows Rich, Stoich, Lean and has a light that sits above whatever it's running. I assumed a dyno would help change that a bit.

But a question I have; the emissions couldn't get a read of the OBD because it had been turned off. Will I still be able to upload a tune?

I'll get under the car and see if the filler neck is the issue. I've also read that it is pretty common.

Thanks again for the reply!
 

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Thanks for the reply! I have no way of know it's exact A/F ratio numbers. It's an analog so it shows Rich, Stoich, Lean and has a light that sits above whatever it's running. I assumed a dyno would help change that a bit.

But a question I have; the emissions couldn't get a read of the OBD because it had been turned off. Will I still be able to upload a tune?

I'll get under the car and see if the filler neck is the issue. I've also read that it is pretty common.

Thanks again for the reply!
Gotcha. Personally I would get a better A/FR gauge in there that will show actual numbers. A dyno tune will definitely make sure it is running at the proper ratio.

That's a question that I don't really have an answer to. Seeing as the car runs I'd say it's safe believe the computer and engine are communicating, just not the access port and computer. The thing that gets me is that the other shop you went to was able to communicate with the pcm, so I feel like you should be are blessed to upload a tune.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Gotcha. Personally I would get a better A/FR gauge in there that will show actual numbers. A dyno tune will definitely make sure it is running at the proper ratio.

That's a question that I don't really have an answer to. Seeing as the car runs I'd say it's safe believe the computer and engine are communicating, just not the access port and computer. The thing that gets me is that the other shop you went to was able to communicate with the pcm, so I feel like you should be are blessed to upload a tune.
Okay. Ya I'm planning on doing all new digital gauges that way there easier to read. The A/F is sitting as lean as it'll run and it's showing a green light in that are. So I just assumed that it running lean was better than rich.

Okay cool. Are you from the Phoenix area? I'm taking the car to http://chucksspeedcenter.com on the 14th of March. Great reviews on Google. Other preformance shops seem to have hit or miss reviews. If you live in the valley do you know of any other shops?

Thanks
 

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Like mile high said. I would change the afr gauge first and foremost. That way you can see exactly what your ratio is.


04 GT
 

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Gotcha. Personally I would get a better A/FR gauge in there that will show actual numbers. A dyno tune will definitely make sure it is running at the proper ratio.

That's a question that I don't really have an answer to. Seeing as the car runs I'd say it's safe believe the computer and engine are communicating, just not the access port and computer. The thing that gets me is that the other shop you went to was able to communicate with the pcm, so I feel like you should be are blessed to upload a tune.
Okay sweet, I was worried i wouldn't be able to upload a solid tune!

---------- Post added at 03:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:58 PM ----------

Like mile high said. I would change the afr gauge first and foremost. That way you can see exactly what your ratio is.


04 GT
Thanks for the reply! Ill order one soon, any suggestions for ones you guys have used?
 

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Okay sweet, I was worried i wouldn't be able to upload a solid tune!

---------- Post added at 03:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:58 PM ----------



Thanks for the reply! Ill order one soon, any suggestions for ones you guys have used?

Honestly. Aem uego widebands are nice. Innovate widebands are amazing.


04 GT
 

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Okay sweet, I was worried i wouldn't be able to upload a solid tune!

---------- Post added at 03:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:58 PM ----------



Thanks for the reply! Ill order one soon, any suggestions for ones you guys have used?

Honestly. Aem uego widebands are nice. Innovate widebands are amazing.


04 GT
 
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