What do I need to buy to lower my car for best looks and ride quality.
+1SpectorV said:if you want to maintain ride quality you will want to avoid super stiff springs. Eibach makes a softer rate spring near stock, your stock rate should be 400-450ish.
A progressive spring is a softer ride but when the spring gets pushed down the more its pushed down the harder it pushes back (that means the rate gets stiffer)
usually these ride better overall, but look into eibach and find their rates.
You will want at least 1.5" drop all around to notice a difference. You will need CC plates
for alignment and I recommend doing it right and going with the 4 bolt maximum motorsport plates. You can install all this on your own with a friends help as well, not a bad way to go (there is a how to I wrote in the article section)
agreed this is a great way to get a good lowered stance and still have a great spring for weight transfer.Cut Emm
I'm guessing you've never cut a set of mustang springs? If you know what you are doing when cutting one and doing it correctly your finished product is a lowered car that will hook nicely thanks to great weight transfer. In fact some of the fastest mustangs i know love either a cut spring or some 4 cyl fox springs cut.I think hed rather not bounce around like a honda lol
U are correct good sir i have never cut springs on a mustang. I just dont like the idea of probably compromising the structure of a spring so i usually just change them to something id be satisfied with withing the prospective specs for dampening and spring rate. I guess im just paranoid if u call it that1slosix said:agreed this is a great way to get a good lowered stance and still have a great spring for weight transfer.
I'm guessing you've never cut a set of mustang springs? If you know what you are doing when cutting one and doing it correctly your finished product is a lowered car that will hook nicely thanks to great weight transfer. In fact some of the fastest mustangs i know love either a cut spring or some 4 cyl fox springs cut.
The trick is using a cutting wheel thats made to cut metal..so either an all metal or bi-metal cutting wheel is a must. Never use a torch...heating a spring to cut through it will kill it's temper and make the coils worthless (i.e. dead).
@OP In the end it depends on what you want to do with the car in the end. a drag car is going to be set up way different from a corner carver. There are happy mediums however those mediums never make you awesome in either one. So think it over before you start making purchases.
here's an example...cut 1.25 coils off the front and 1 coil off the back. No ISOs
You should be good unless you're planning to take your car to the track. Then look to upgrade struts. You haven't had them long so you'll be alright. Might wanna look into shocks thoToHellAndBack said:I recently replaced my front struts with stock replacements (in the last 2 months cuz I bent em) but I want to get lowering springs. Do I have to replace them again to work with my springs?
Probably about an inch and you'd be okay without replacing shocks but I'd still consider some new shocks. A lot of it has to do with the age of your shocks. I'd recommend getting new shocks if you're past 100k miles and not even lowered. For c springs are about an inch I believe. At an inch you won't need cc plates. IMO an inch isn't enough tho. So I'd opt for lower springs like eibach sports or H&R sports. If you drop more than 1.75-2" look into getting cc plates or camber bolts atleastWhat springs can I use to get the lowest drop with out replacing my shocks and how low will that get me I want it to sit even too if all possible and will I have to have cc plates