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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I know it's always better to upgrade your shocks/struts when lowering your car but wondering what the ride it's like if I were to lower my 14 GT on say Sport lines or Ford racing K springs
Will the drop do any damage on the stock suspension
 

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The Ford Racing K springs ride like crap even with upgraded shocks/struts. On their own they're even worst. You will still need to address the upper control arm and mount as well as the lower control arms and relocation brackets. Do it right the first time.


If you need someone to install parts let me know. I can do it probably less than 15 mimutes from where you live.
 

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I have had the Eibach Sportlines on for the past 6000 miles with my stock suspension and although it does ride a little stiffer....which I like...it has caused no real issues or tire wear. My car is a TrakPak and although the struts/shocks are little stiffer than normal it just depends on the ride feel you are looking for. I also didn't change the strut mounts and they do creak/pop on occassion...... it hasn't really bothered me that much.......I will be changing struts/shocks in the near future as soon as I decide if I want coil overs or struts/shocks....and which ones.
As for using camber bolts or caster/camber plates..........I see no need for them.
I have helped lower 5 late model Mustangs including mine and none have need any camber bolts or caster/camber plates. When I took my Mustang to Ford after putting the springs in the alignment although on the high side of camber and low side of caster was within factory Ford specs............so, the Mustang can be lowered without changing anything although I would get a new set of strut mounts when you put the springs in...........just to start fresh as Ford calls the struts mounts one time use only and they are considered throw away items. I reused mine............."don't do as I do, do as I say"..............that's up to you.
 

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do it once....

I see Meriden...look for my threads RoboStang and I run cruises 3x year. Next on is the last wknd of October (Durham in the house). I met Grabber at the last one.
 

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My wife has a 2013 Roush RS
That's the V6 Roush does dress up on
Roush lowers the car 1 inch with their springs no other suspension parts at all
With the 19 inch Brembo wheels it looks great and rides pretty good as well
If you are looking to lower the car for looks this works
If you want better handling then do a complete suspension upgrade with components designed to work together
 

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Glad to see this thread, didn't want to start another one that the know it all's just reply "lol".

I desperately want to lower my GT. but I'm always on a budget. I have been looking at a Steeda kit but it'll have to wait. So reading this it appears I can simply replace my springs with some Steedas and get the stance I want?? I want the handling as well but another dollar later.


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On my 2012 v6 i used sr springs without replacing the dampers or mounts. It was fine for a while but as time went on, either the dampers or the mounts started wearing out and making a ton off noise over bumps and creaking when turning. It still looked good, but on my new 2014 gt, i just installed sportlines, koni orange dampers, and J&M cc plates. It rides super smooth and firm and no noise. I just installed them last week though... i suggest at least getting the shocks and struts with the springs considering the konis are on sale right now.

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah most likely going to do everything at once but was seeing if anyone experienced any major issues or problems with just springs ...where are the konis on sale ?

I picked up some 19" svt wheels so maybe ill try to do everything at once
 

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Both the oranges and yellows are on sale at American Muscle and i think Late Model Restoration. AM for sure though and then our forum discount doesnt hurt lol.

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Also, until i get my alignment done, my front wheels have some negative camber. Its how they want you to position the cc plates at first since its easier for you to get them even on both sides like that than trying to center them yourself.

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---------- Post added at 11:37 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:36 AM ----------

You can kind of see it in the second picture

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Ya it will. Lowering your car messes with the geometry of the car. Especially with cc plates. Also need an adjustable panhard bar for the backend. Mine was so bad after i dropped my car. The sportlines drop 2" in the back.

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Local guy to me I've been helping lowered his car without fixing the pinion angle with an upper control arm and now his rear is fudged up and leaking all over the place. So there are other pieces to the puzzle that need to be addressed.
 

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Well ive never heard of anything leaking on our cars after lowering it unless when you were messing with the axle, you did something weird

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Discussion Starter #19
Ya it will. Lowering your car messes with the geometry of the car. Especially with cc plates. Also need an adjustable panhard bar for the backend. Mine was so bad after i dropped my car. The sportlines drop 2" in the back.

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Yeah it's tough I like the sport lines but the seem to be a more even drop all around not sure if I want to go with the kind of racked look
 

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Will a spring swap require an alignment?


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If you just swap springs.....depending on what springs you use........no you don't need an alignment........although I would have it checked. I went to my Ford dealer and asked if he would check the alignment.........he did.......and didn't charge me...........also, Les Schwab Tire centers don't charge if the alignment falls within factory specs........if you are worried about paying if the alignment is good and they do no adjusting.
I've helped lower 5 late model Mustangs including mine and none of them were out of alignment after the swap. All five used the stock struts and shocks along with stock strut mounts. I lowered mine 1.5" in front and 2" in the rear and although I'm on the high side of factory spec for camber and the low side for caster I've had no tire wear in 6000 miles and the car handles great.
Is this the correct thing to do it..........if you are not willing to spend over $1k initially you can certainly do what I did with no adverse suspension issues. I would recommend getting an adjustable pan hard bar so you can bring the rear end back to the correct offset.
As for ride.........my TrakPak rides stiffer than OE but I'm fine with that...it does make noises when going over speed bumps and in driveways.......
Now, with that said I am going to change the struts and shocks before the end of this summer..........just not sure in what direction.
 
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