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Discussion Starter #1
I want to know any suggestions on lowering springs. I know some like Eibach are pricey but heard there pretty good too?
 

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depends what you want out of the car....a decent riding DD? an autox/corner carver? a drag car? different springs compliment different routes.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Daily driver. Just to make the car lower cause looks funny how it is.
Looking for about 1.5 inches any lower than 2 and car will start scraping everywhere for sure. Kinda wanted the ones where its like 1.5 inches in front and 1.25 in rear for an aggressive look

---------- Post added at 01:19 AM ---------- Previous post was at 01:16 AM ----------

Would some of those eBay ones work? I heard some are just so cheap your car feels all bouncy.
 

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Just cut your springs then....to achieve the drop you want its easy. 1.25 coils off the front and 1 coil off the back. Leave isolators..or pull them for another 1/4" drop on average. Youll have a decent driving DD and youll still have cash to put in another mod.
 

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03Sixtang said:
off topic but venomouz did you paint your roof by yourself or get that professionally done?
I did it myself which we used dip. And for my brothers we wrapped it in 3m gloss rap
 

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Lol I like the wrap because it was shiny. Mine was matte black and it depends what you want glossy or matte. Plus I spent about 18 bucks and he like 70
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you for the guide. And I got my rims off cruizinconcepts.com There replicas but some are very good price. Mine came out to 420 all 4 including tax. I was looking for the saleen also bit the original were like 700. Outrageous Lol
 

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Quick reference information to assist in decision making.
Ford Mustang (94-04).
BACK FRONT (lbs/in)
FRPP:
B- 425/530 200/300
C- 650 200/300
F- 460/570 170/310
G- 460/570 200/250
BBK:
650 250
Steeda:
650 250
Eibach Pro Kit:
456/570 200/251
Eibach Sportline:
425/550 200/251
H&R Sport:
490/575 250/285
H&R Race:
750/850 260/280
Vogtland:
440 552
 

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I'm sorry but I'm not highly knowledgable with some things. What is the information for?
-Spring Rates, Front & rear.
Spring Rate is the amount of weight needed to compress a spring a certain . Springs are rated in LB/in (in metric system kg/mm), or specifically, how many pounds of weight are required to depress the spring by one inch. To convert LB/in to kg/mm international, you must divide divide figure by 56.

Consider you have 2 springs having different spring rates: One with 345 g/mm and the other with 480 g/mm. So what does it mean?

It means the 1st spring will compress 1 mm if you put a load of 345 grams, while the 2nd one will not. The 2nd one will need a 480 g. load to compress 1 mm. According to this, we can say that the 2nd spring is harder than the 1st one, or we can state that:

Springs that have a low Spring Rate are soft, while springs that have a high Spring Rate are stiffer.



If there are 2 different values listed, it means that the spring starts at one rate, and ends at another rate under full compression.

For example: a 10lb to 25lb progressive spring will need 10lb to compress it the first inch, then 13lb the next inch, and so on, until the end of the travel; it will take 25lb to compress it the last inch. The benefit of this is that the spring can be soft enough at the start of the travel to offer a soft ride yet be stiff enough at the end of the travel to performance well during hard braking and turning.
 

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If cutting the stock ones, how would you measure the amount of coil needed to take off for the drop I want?
Typically it's one full spring off of the fronts and one half off of the rears. Stock shocks do not typically last very long once lowered. Also, you can run out of camber and need caster camber plates. Another thing to remember is that unless it's specified made for a V6, then you have to take into account that the V6 is 100lbs lighter up front than the V8. Meaning you won't get as much of a drop up front. Rear springs (spring rates) are a good barometer as to final ride comfort.-Alot of research, money, and hours of hard labor go into getting a suspension that gives you a safe, superior ride and handling. Once all of the parts are on, expect to take it to a speed shop or a Mustang shop to get it properly aligned. I destroyed a set of front tires within 45 miles before getting it to the shop for alignment. *I also chose to go with "Fox Body" springs/shocks, which is another option.
**My part list FYI: Lowering springs, shocks/struts, caster camber plates (4 bolt), bumpsteer kit, & X-2 Balljoints.
 
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