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Discussion Starter #1
2000 FORD MUSTANG 3.8... I have had a bad vibration in my car, which shakes the whole care, Vibration....got worse over the course of time (about a month or so give or take)..

1st repair shop....after process of elimination, (compression test, codes all that, all checked fine) told me it was the harmonic balancer..... changed that.... still have the vibration not as bad....

about a week later.... check engine light came on.....took it to have tested was told cylinder 3/4 misfire. (no loss of power, a couple of times got a quick couple second sluggish that is it.... my son in law was in town, and changed the plugs for me (they were really bad)...still have the vibration.

2 weeks later,...2nd repair shop...changed the motor mounts, (which was also bad) after motor mounts were changed Vibration got worse, when i start the car, and then let it idle, and the rpms go down, no vibration.... sit in park and rev engine i have the vibration......mostly vibrations are bad when driving.... 2nd shop told me it was my flywheel that is bad... (due to my engine being lifted higher now) and not sitting so low) since the mounts were changed, check engine light is now gone.

Had codes re checked, only code i am getting is Code P1000....

When the car is at an idle (normal RPMS, no vibration), only when i press the gas, whether I am stopped or moving...

I have been told several different things,
1. transmission mount
2. U-joints
3. Flywheel
4. Drive Shaft
5. Engine Mis-fire
6. Timing
7. Air intake/flow...

I cant keep spending money on what people "assume" does anyone have any ideas? Or have had these issues???
 

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Automatic or manual trans? And if you are in park with an auto or neutral with a manual, and the vibration begins as you increase the revs, you can cross off anything back of the engine. It is also likely that the vibration is there at idle, but at too low a frequency for you to feel. A bad cylinder would likely feel worse at idle than at higher rpm. And does the vibration get faster as rpm increases?
A competent mechanic should be able to diagnose a problem like this easily, but I do think that my first guess would be either the harmonic balancer (does the V6 have one of those?) or the flywheel.......
 

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Discussion Starter #3
5 spd... harmonic balancer was changed (that is what we thought the problem was)... when i 1st start the car, i have the vibration. While at idle in neutral, don't have the vibration, unless i rev the engine. Once i place the car in gear and give it gas, I have the vibration. The 1st shop checked codes, compression, etc. Nothing was showing wrong.
 

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Is the vibration a constant frequency, or does it increase (and decrease) with your rpm’s? I would also say that if the vibration is something constant, then it is something external to the engine....if the vibration is linked to rpm, then it is more likely an internal-to-the-engine problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The Vibration is constant when i am driving, sometimes it is not as rough, I have noticed when i put the car in 5th gear, the vibration does down a little, it is not as rough as the other gears. But still pretty bad.
 

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Don't go back to that second shop! They sound like a bunch of idiots. :nonono:
And if that first shop removed a worn out set of spark plugs to do a compression test, and then reinstalled them.... Shame on them!

It's very difficult to accurately diagnose problems on the internet. So keep that in mind.
With that being said, what you describe is the common symptom of an engine misfire. This is typically caused by either a malfunctioning ignition system, or a failed fuel injector.
If I had to take a guess, based on the dignostic trouble code that was found, I would focus on the ignition system first, as it is the most common cause of problems.
You've already changed the spark plugs. The only parts left to replace is the spark plug wires and the coil pack. If you do end up replacing the coil pack, I highly recommend purchasing the factory replacement part manufactured by Motorcraft. They are generally more reliable than any of the aftermarket replacement coil packs.
Again, I don't know for sure what the problem is, but that is where I would begin. Make sure that the engine is running correctly and all of the basic tune-up items are checked before removing the transmission and possibly replacing a perfectly serviceable flywheel, clutch, and such.
 

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Does it possibly stop if you take your foot off of the gas in gear? Try accelerating in third to about 4,500 rpm (vibration while you do this?), then take your foot off of the gas (did vibration stop?) If this is the case, then it is more likely engine or transmission mounts.
Where are you feeling the vibration, in the whole car, in the seat of your pants, in the steering wheel. Does your rear view mirror shake too?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
When i start the car, i have the vibration, RPMS go down, vibration goes away...

My son in law changed the plugs, to save me money on taking it to a shop...

That is what i was thinking (2nd shop) lol

But if the car is not in motion, i don't see how it can be the flywheel or clutch, when i also get the vibration when im at an idle, not in gear and rev the engine...

My whole car shakes, the engine mounts were changed on Saturday, once they were changed, the vibration got alot worse... That is where we are stumped on...
 

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I suppose that it is possible that the new engine mounts may be stiffer than the originals and are transferring more of the vibration throughout the entire chassis.
I'm sorry that I can't be of much help, without seeing the car, all that I can offer is "educated" guesses.
It might be worth it to hunt down a nearby shop that has an excellent reputation for diagnosing problems with Ford vehicles. (Even if that happens to be a Ford dealership). Explain to them that you have been to a number of mechanics who have mis-diagnosed the problem and that you are hesitant to replace any more parts unless there is a very high probability that the vibration will be fixed. Offer to pay up to one hour of their normal shop rate for their most experienced technicician to diagnose the problemn and give you his opinion on what is wrong.

The problem, nowadays, is that most automotive technicians are paid very little (or nothing) to do the diagnosis on a vehicle. So, in turn, they have very little motivation to do a proper diagnosis, and skip right to swapping parts, which they get paid their normal wage for, until they finally stumble upon the actual cause of the malady. Some of them spend their careers fabricating a successive variety of asinine excuses for their laziness. Like telling people that the flywheel must be bad because of the new engine mounts. :rolleyes: Nonsense!
It may help to pay the shops hourly rate rather than a diagnostic fee so that the mechanic will be paid his normal rate, and hopefully be encouraged to do a thorough diagnosis.
 

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“But if the car is not in motion, i don't see how it can be the flywheel or clutch, when i also get the vibration when im at an idle, not in gear and rev the engine...”

Actually, you have it kind of wrong here.....the flywheel and the front half of the clutch are ALWAYS in motion when the engine is running, as they are attached to the crankshaft.....once you put it in gear, and let out the clutch, then the transmission, driveshaft and everything aft of that begins to rotate.
Now this does NOT mean that the transmission mounts are not contributing to this, as if something in the engine is out of balance, the trans mounts could be rattling around a bit even in neutral with the engine running.
The above suggestion to pay an hour of a REAL mechanic’s time is a good one, as you can see that opinions here are going to all over the board......impossible to accurately diagnose your situation just writing back and forth here......
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Thank you all.. yeah it is all over the board... trying to find a good place that wont see a woman coming and try to rip me off.. is hard..
 

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Plug wires, doing just the spark plugs is only doing it 50% of the way. If that still doesn't fix the problem go to autozone and get a new coil pack. If it is the problem then roll with it till you can get a Motorcraft replacement, if not then you can return it and get your money back (tell them it was bad). A clogged injector would be my next guess.

Only other thing it could be is the something in the clutch/flywheel is out of balance or something internally.

And don't go back to that 2nd shop. If someone thinks driveline alignment would make the flywheel vibrate with the clutch disengaged they should't be allowed to work on a car much less a toaster.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Scott,

The plug wires were replaced last year, so they are not that old. That is why i didn't change them. The clutch is not engaged, and when i rev the engine in neutral, I also get the vibration. That is what is throwing me off.
 

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Thinking it is related to this issue "about a week later.... check engine light came on.....took it to have tested was told cylinder 3/4 misfire. (no loss of power, a couple of times got a quick couple second sluggish that is it.... my son in law was in town, and changed the plugs for me (they were really bad)...still have the vibration" Sounds like it may still be misfiring.
 

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Thanks Scott,

The plug wires were replaced last year, so they are not that old. That is why i didn't change them. The clutch is not engaged, and when i rev the engine in neutral, I also get the vibration. That is what is throwing me off.
The flywheel is bolted to the engine crankshaft. The largest part of the clutch assembly, the pressure plate, is bolted directly to the flywheel. Only the clutch disc itself is allowed to stop spinning when the clutch pedal is being depressed, and the clutch disc is disengaged from the flywheel.
When the clutch pedal is not being depressed, the entire clutch assembly, along with the input shaft to the transmission, are all spinning at the same speed as the engine. So it is not beyond the realm of possibility that the flywheel/clutch assembly could cause a vibration even when parked with the engine idling.
If it was the flywheel/clutch causing the vibration, I would expect that there would be additional symptoms such as a pulsating clutch pedal feeling, difficulty engaging or shifting gears, slipping clutch, etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
No issues with the clutch everything shifts fine... When the car is parked/stopped, whether in neutral or with the clutch engaged/gear. the car still shakes, if i press on the gas. If the rpm's are above the normal idle the car shakes. Whether pressing gas or not.
 

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Had a similar issue with my Navigator and it turned out that I had two stuck fuel injectors, That was what fouled the plugs in the 1st place. Ran that way for a while before the Check engine light came on, thought I had got some bad Gas at first.
 

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Is it the clutch pedal or pedal assembly (or all of that) that is vibrating? Mine did that badly when I got an aftermarket clutch quadrant & cable setup. If it's not running rough due to injectors or inconsistent spark, maybe it's the clutch quadrant & cable setup. I fixed mine by spring-loading the clutch pedal, like it was originally OEM. This setup is often called a 'clutch freeplay mod'. Basically, it's just a light spring added to the cable setup to keep the pedal up. Mine rattled/vibrated accelerating or just sitting there in idle. An easy way to tell is if the vibration goes away when you're putting the clutch pedal to the floor to shift gears etc.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Its not the clutch, it is a vibration in the engine... When i start the car and the rpms are up, i have the vibration.. once the RPMS go down, it goes away. But when I am driving/ foot on gas, is when I does it. Clutch/pedal/ all that has been checked, motor mounts changed, harmonic balancer, plugs. Still have it :(
 
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