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Could magma flow comps be the reason my mpg is so low? I know obviously I'm led footing it but when I reset it and really try to drive well it still sucks
 

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That gage on your dash is not the way to look at MPG

You really need to run a couple or more tankfulls and use pencil & paper to check the milage.

If anything you should be getting better MPG with the Comps.

My gage never said I was getting more then 22/24 mpg but when I checked it 2,103.05 miles I used 70.96 gallons of 87 octane giving me a realistic 29.637 Miles per gallon.

I don't even know why they put that stupid """WRONG READING"" gage on the car. A nice digital speed-o-meter would be better.

Ronnie
 

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You really need to run a couple or more tankfulls and use pencil & paper to check the milage.

If anything you should be getting better MPG with the Comps.

My gage never said I was getting more then 22/24 mpg but when I checked it 2,103.05 miles I used 70.96 gallons of 87 octane giving me a realistic 29.637 Miles per gallon.

I don't even know why they put that stupid """WRONG READING"" gage on the car. A nice digital speed-o-meter would be better.

Ronnie
I agree with Ronnie every thing in the books suggests increased fuel economy. The pen & paper method is still the only way to determine actual MPG average.

How is your tire pressure, and air-filter condition? Every 15-20,000 on the air filter is recommended to be replaced. And air pressure should be checked every fill up. ( or as the owners manual states once per week.)
 

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I don't know how cool it's been down there, but engine warm up is killing my mpg. I'm getting about 1-2mpg less than in the summer on average. They also switch to a different fuel mixture for winter at gas stations. So, don't be too surprised if that is affecting you.
 

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What usually happens when folks install a mod is that the right foot goes into "test it" mode.

Like all are recommending, try a few tank fulls to get an overall reading. Engines should perform better with easier air flow in, and air flow out. However, a set of axle backs are not going to provide you with any big gains in the MPG field by themselves.

The engine just sounds better!
 

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I would use pen and paper method. Obviously you said you are keeping your foot in it so that is most likely the reason but climate change, tire pressure and style of driving are most likely the reason.
 

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Sanguin said:
I don't know how cool it's been down there, but engine warm up is killing my mpg. I'm getting about 1-2mpg less than in the summer on average. They also switch to a different fuel mixture for winter at gas stations. So, don't be too surprised if that is affecting you.
You can always do an upper and or lower grille block, to cut down your Cd and quicken engine warm up time.
 

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Since I've been traveling because of job ill mention this. Some are silly though and just my ways.
I run my tire pressure on my michelin defenders at 36. Max is 45.
I run 2.73 gears and try to let it shift at 2k and under.
I only have a duffle bag of clothes and a longboard on the upper part of the trunk in the back. (Weird sentence)

I fill my tank up regardless.
Use cruise control.
Keep the car of clutter. Clutter =weight. Weight=bad.

Don't let the engine idle for a long time. But in traffic just deal with it.

My computer says 30-32 mpg. I know its off but not sure if its up or down from that. I know the magnaflow comps are like a glorified straight pipe add on. When mine were running with no mufflers, I lost Sooo much mpg due to back pressure. Not sure if you have enough with the comp design. Just assuming
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Whitelightning said:
Since I've been traveling because of job ill mention this. Some are silly though and just my ways.
I run my tire pressure on my michelin defenders at 36. Max is 45.
I run 2.73 gears and try to let it shift at 2k and under.
I only have a duffle bag of clothes and a longboard on the upper part of the trunk in the back. (Weird sentence)

I fill my tank up regardless.
Use cruise control.
Keep the car of clutter. Clutter =weight. Weight=bad.

Don't let the engine idle for a long time. But in traffic just deal with it.

My computer says 30-32 mpg. I know its off but not sure if its up or down from that. I know the magnaflow comps are like a glorified straight pipe add on. When mine were running with no mufflers, I lost Sooo much mpg due to back pressure. Not sure if you have enough with the comp design. Just assuming
Less back pressure = less mpg? I would think less back pressure would make the engine run easier and not have to try as hard to get going?
 

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Great tips on improving MPG mentioned by WhiteLightning. I'll add another. I've had my Mustang for just a bit over 11 months, and have 35K miles on it. I drive daily from Orlando to Tampa, about a 200 mile round trip. I use either Mobile or Shell gasoline, as they have more fuel cleaners/additives mixed with their fuel than other brands. However, with ethenol increasing in the fuel we buy, the additives get less and less, and carbon buildup becomes an issue. Ever run your finger on the inside of your tailpipe? That's the aftermath of the fuels we have nowadays. Every 3000 to 5000 miles, I add a full container of BMW fuel conditioner, as it has a high content of fuel cleaner. Don't need to add it more often, just every 3 to 5 thousand miles. It will cost you 12 bucks for the bottle, but it does a great job of cleaning out carbon buildup and deposits on the valves and throttle body. This will improve your MPG as well.
 

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Good tip Bucko

Chevron "TECHRON" works perfect for keeping your injectors etc. clean. You can get it almost anyplace and it is not as expensive as the BMW fuel conditioner. I had A Mini JCW before my Mustang and my Mini/BMW tech put me on to the "TECHRON" about every 5,000 mile due to the JCW carbon build up and gummy injector problems with that particular engine.

Ronnie
 

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Great tips on improving MPG mentioned by WhiteLightning. I'll add another. I've had my Mustang for just a bit over 11 months, and have 35K miles on it. I drive daily from Orlando to Tampa, about a 200 mile round trip. I use either Mobile or Shell gasoline, as they have more fuel cleaners/additives mixed with their fuel than other brands. However, with ethenol increasing in the fuel we buy, the additives get less and less, and carbon buildup becomes an issue. Ever run your finger on the inside of your tailpipe? That's the aftermath of the fuels we have nowadays. Every 3000 to 5000 miles, I add a full container of BMW fuel conditioner, as it has a high content of fuel cleaner. Don't need to add it more often, just every 3 to 5 thousand miles. It will cost you 12 bucks for the bottle, but it does a great job of cleaning out carbon buildup and deposits on the valves and throttle body. This will improve your MPG as well.
+1 to shell. I used to use non ethanol. Got a solid two weeks a tank on it. Then thy wanted an arm and a leg for it so I went to she'll ethanol 87 grade. Ever heard of sea foam?
 

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Sae Foam is great stuff """BUT""

Sea Foam is good for after the engine gets clogged up. You are better off using A fuel system cleaner like Techron or STP etc. That is not so harsh and prevents buildup sludge in the first place.

I just used some Sea Foam on Shari's 1966 Mustang a month ago.

Ronnie
 

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oh ya. air/oil catch can. that will help as well. it really keeps all the dirty vapored oil from clogging up the intake and everything below it. i have run one almost since day one (100 miles on car) and it really keeps the intake manifold very clean. you might want to pull your air box off at the throttle body and poke a flashlight in there. most likely your intake manifold has got a lot of oil in it if you havent been using a catch can. You can remove the whole intake manifold and use seafoam to clean it all out... They make cleaners that you spray in there while the car is on but that just pushes all of that crap into your motor... no bueno!
 

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You got that right

pwrby4d oh ya. air/oil catch can. that will help as well. it really keeps all the dirty vapored oil from clogging up the intake and everything below it. i have run one almost since day one (100 miles on car) and it really keeps the intake manifold very clean. you might want to pull your air box off at the throttle body and poke a flashlight in there. most likely your intake manifold has got a lot of oil in it if you havent been using a catch can. You can remove the whole intake manifold and use seafoam to clean it all out... They make cleaners that you spray in there while the car is on but that just pushes all of that crap into your motor... no bueno!
Use a catch can and you will never have a problem.

Very good advise from pwrby4d

Ronnie
 

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Sea Foam is good for after the engine gets clogged up. You are better off using A fuel system cleaner like Techron or STP etc. That is not so harsh and prevents buildup sludge in the first place.

I just used some Sea Foam on Shari's 1966 Mustang a month ago.

Ronnie
I used it on my 70 and my last 02 DD and it worked wonders. And cleaning the throttle body

---------- Post added at 11:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:22 AM ----------

Oh and not to mention the air/ heat being off. I don't turn the dial all the way for hot or cold. Just enough to where it touches it so that's way it's like your house, nice and comfy. But for a/c I turn it all the way cold
 

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I bought a cheap $16 one from eBay and retro fitted the tubing. Works just as good as the $119 from AM, I'm Gna be buying a second one for the passenger side too
Do you by chance have a link to the eBay store you bought it at?

I'm curious now. I never heard of that but it makes sense.
 

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Do you by chance have a link to the eBay store you bought it at?

I'm curious now. I never heard of that but it makes sense.
Seriously you could make a catch can made from a Gatorade bottle, all a catch can does is have a inlet tube go into a can with some sort of a filter then a outlet. My friend made one just for ****s and giggles made out of a sprite bottle and it worked lol

This is the one I bought, it's for Hondas but it's simple and not all JDM looking so it works on my car great

http://bit.ly/Sgrzil
 

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I made one for my last car. Lowes or Home depot stuff. Air compressor water /air cup and a few fittings, a steel scrunchy used to clean pans from the supermarket stuffed in the bottle as a baffle and fuel line hose from auto parts store. Fuel line hose is what you should use. Other hoses will rot out from the petroleum. I think it cost me like 20 bucks and I used stuff that would look good under the hood. Could do it cheaper. This time I got a deal on the JLT can so I got it but I had planned on just making one.
 
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