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Discussion Starter #41
sub connectors... That's a point I'll need to get into.
John, what do you meen by jacking rails? never heard of that but even using soft wood I'm busting my car with the jack!

concerning suspension, my car was in such a poor condition when I've bought it that I didn't have time to do my home work properly and I've just replaced everything for original style parts except for a few things as sway bars, 4.5 leafs instead of 4, 1" cheap lowering coils... So I might go back to that later in the project.
for the brakes, my thought was that there is no weight in the back of this car so I went for booster/double bowl, proportioning valve and ssbc discs only in the front with 4 pistons calipers. I guess it's gonna stay this way for a while!
for the stifness, for the moment just export braces and monty bar and traction bars that I didn't install yet.

To come back to the engine, the 351 would not be a no go but I have no idea what that swap involves... Is it an easy game?
engine mounts the same? bell housing the same?
what I like with the 302 is that a "modern" roller is an invisible swap of the original 289. That makes everything easy for all systems as AC or steering pumps, water pump... everything designed for a 66 mustang fits!

I start liking the idea of a 347 stroker with a super mild cam. bigger ci so more tq and max hp at lower rpm. I've seen really expensive parts for this kind of engine but as I don't want blower or juice I believe that I can stick to cast crank, "I" rods and non forged pistons which are afordable.

for the wheels I'm actualy still using the piece of sxxx that came with it: ugly aluminum rims 80's style with stupid 195/65/14 that give a realy wierd look!
It looks like a low rider with these tiny wheels!
I was in love with the Magnum 500s for a while but now I think I want a set of Torq Thrust Ds in 15x7 with 225/60 in the back and 215/60 in front. What d'you think? will I need to roll some fenders?
That will be my next buy after installing my Borgeson power steering.
 

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For suspension parts Global West is the best suspension company for early Fords that I have dealt with in the past 30 years.

1964, 1965, 1966 Mustang coupe and fastback Rocker Rail Support Kit part# 923

If you have replaced the front end components with stock pieces this piece would really help tighten up the front end...I have used it before and it does much better than the old rubber bushing.

Mustang Front End Individual Components 1964, 1965, 1966

Putting a 351w with stock heads and stock exhaust manifolds can be done fairly simply and it will be tight because of the shock towers. Once you put some good aluminum heads on you will have an even tighter situation and you will have to build a custom set of headers as nothing else will fit. A longtime ago I think Kooks headers made a set of long tube headers for a Boss 302 in an early Mustang and Maverick...don't think they do anymore.
So, in order to fit a 351w in between the shock towers with some good aluminum heads you will need to either notch the towers or take them out completely....Rod and Custom makes one....they also make one to put a Coyote in an early Mustang......now that would be a swap I would really like to do.

Complete Modular/Coyote Conversion Archives - Rod and Custom Motorsports, Inc.

Also included a picture of my old Maverick drag car showing the shock towers notched so the 351w with Roush/Yates TrickFlow R heads would fit along with custom headers.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
:D
that is way beyond my actual project!
It's not a race car, it's my everyday driver! I can rent a car for a week when doing a simple swap but fitting a 351 sounds more time consuming than that.
If I was in France with my tools and my garage, I would love to!
I would even have all necessary tools to build my own headers.
By the way, in France other projects are waiting for me... as a fun swap of a skydoo E-tec engine in an old Trabant car from east Germany.

So ok, I understood : a 351w is not for me.
 

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For suspension parts Global West is the best suspension company for early Fords that I have dealt with in the past 30 years.



1964, 1965, 1966 Mustang coupe and fastback Rocker Rail Support Kit part# 923



If you have replaced the front end components with stock pieces this piece would really help tighten up the front end...I have used it before and it does much better than the old rubber bushing.



Mustang Front End Individual Components 1964, 1965, 1966



Putting a 351w with stock heads and stock exhaust manifolds can be done fairly simply and it will be tight because of the shock towers. Once you put some good aluminum heads on you will have an even tighter situation and you will have to build a custom set of headers as nothing else will fit. A longtime ago I think Kooks headers made a set of long tube headers for a Boss 302 in an early Mustang and Maverick...don't think they do anymore.

So, in order to fit a 351w in between the shock towers with some good aluminum heads you will need to either notch the towers or take them out completely....Rod and Custom makes one....they also make one to put a Coyote in an early Mustang......now that would be a swap I would really like to do.



Complete Modular/Coyote Conversion Archives - Rod and Custom Motorsports, Inc.



Also included a picture of my old Maverick drag car showing the shock towers notched so the 351w with Roush/Yates TrickFlow R heads would fit along with custom headers.

+1 on Rod and Custom

ImageUploadedByMustang Evolution1459567332.043561.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Mustang Evolution
 

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:D
that is way beyond my actual project!
It's not a race car, it's my everyday driver! I can rent a car for a week when doing a simple swap but fitting a 351 sounds more time consuming than that.
If I was in France with my tools and my garage, I would love to!
I would even have all necessary tools to build my own headers.
By the way, in France other projects are waiting for me... as a fun swap of a skydoo E-tec engine in an old Trabant car from east Germany.

So ok, I understood : a 351w is not for me.
Again, if I was building a 66 this is what I'd do.....since I've done it more than once I just assumed you wanted a chassis (I assume you are taking this back to France after you've finished your job here) that would perform well on European roads, an occasional outing at a drag strip or maybe even a road course...so with that said I guess I won't worry about the chassis and just concentrate on the motor.
1. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-150110/all - block
2. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wrl-053040-2 - heads
3. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-16003030/overview/ - internals
4. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k35-522-8/overview/ - cam kit
5. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2921/overview/make/ford/model/victor - intake manifold
6. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/wsn-004150/overview/ - 2" carb spacer
7. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/dem-1282010ve - carb
8. I'd use full lenght stepped headers, 1-5/8 stepped to 1-3/4 with 30" primary tubes

Ok this motor on a conservative tune do 440+ HP at about 5800 rpm and approximately 420lbft or TQ at about 5200 rpm.

This motor would be a great little reliable motor that you won't have to go to 6000+rpm to make good HP and TQ...........and would last a long time with the proper blue printing.

IMHO
 

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Discussion Starter #47
Another weekend working : I've installed the Borgeson power steering conversion!
It's just not the same car, I love it!
:)
 

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Enjoying this post. Great questions with excellent feedback. Really like my 66 and always looking forward to the different ideas and opinions. Keep up the good work
 

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Discussion Starter #50 (Edited)
Pictures of my coupe:







Damn, last night I tried to install my export braces... Not easy!
all the bolts that hold the shock tower top are rusty and busted and the threads on the shock tower tops are dead.
so I just stopped and bolt the shocks back as well as I could to be able to drive and I've ordered new shock tower tops and all nessessary hardware.
:-/
And also, as I was suspecting, I don't have enough distance between the towers for the export braces... I've got to find out where I can put a jack to work that out.
As I've just installed the Borgeson conversion, I need to get my car aligned to get more caster but I want to install the braces first.
Not always easy to work on a daily driver!
 

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I know how you feel about having to daily drive your car. Iv had a new distributor that I'm to scared to put in since my car is running so good right now.
 

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Discussion Starter #53
New subject on my project:

I face a problem with my clutch.
Problem was already existing but got even worse with the Borgeson Z-bar:
The lower part of the clutch linkage is permanently in contact with the header (except when I disengage the clutch).
it works, I'm using the car, but I don't like the fact of this contact and I dont like where it puts the slipping point at the pedal (too far, almost all the way down).

So I now see 3 options:
- cut and weld my Z-bar to change the angle and make it clear the exhaust
- go for a cable conversion
- buy other headers.

The exhaust that is actualy on my car is a classical 3Y (4-2-1) all rusted. I don't know what make it is but it looks really similar to the cheap Scott Drake one which has 1 1/2 primarys, 1 3/4 secondarys and 2 1/2 final.
I believe that this exhaust will be too small for the stoker I would like to build, so maybe my clutch problem can be the right oportunity to find a better one.

What d'you guys think?
 

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New subject on my project:

I face a problem with my clutch.
Problem was already existing but got even worse with the Borgeson Z-bar:
The lower part of the clutch linkage is permanently in contact with the header (except when I disengage the clutch).
it works, I'm using the car, but I don't like the fact of this contact and I dont like where it puts the slipping point at the pedal (too far, almost all the way down).

So I now see 3 options:
- cut and weld my Z-bar to change the angle and make it clear the exhaust
- go for a cable conversion
- buy other headers.

The exhaust that is actualy on my car is a classical 3Y (4-2-1) all rusted. I don't know what make it is but it looks really similar to the cheap Scott Drake one which has 1 1/2 primarys, 1 3/4 secondarys and 2 1/2 final.
I believe that this exhaust will be too small for the stoker I would like to build, so maybe my clutch problem can be the right oportunity to find a better one.

What d'you guys think?
Your current Tri-Y headers are limited to about 4500 rpm....Tri-Y's are not a real performance header.
Long tube headers are what would work best on the 347 stroker and my recommendation would be a stepped header with 1-5/8" primary tube with 1-/34" secondary tubes.
My recommendation is none of the above, I would be to take a ball peen hammer to the tube that is in the way........even if you dent it in 1/4" or so it's not going to really degrade the performance that much.
A good set of headers will not be cheap and probably not hook up the the rest of the exhaust system and will require you make a trip to your local exhaust shop.
Just go the cheapest was since it's your daily driver....that's what I would do.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I've seen a Youtube video with David Frieburger (from RoadKill) where they do tests on a dyno destroying headers and looking how it influences power drop on the Dyno... And they are amazed to see how hudge dents don't affect at all the curve!
:p

Olleroder, what exhaust do you have in mind?
I've seen one from JBA that is 1 3/4 and goes to one 3"... apparently specialy designed for Borgeson conversion, but pricy.

I know that it won't bolt on and will need mods on the rest of the line.
time to switch my 2" to 2,5" ?
:-D
 

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Yes, usually dents won't make a huge difference on a street motor....on a race motor with very high lift and a lot of overlap a huge dent will usually make a cylinder go lean.........not a good condition to be in when pumping 14 or 15:1 compression on 114 race gas.
Usually I make my own headers or have them make at SPD in Sacramento, CA.
From experience with SBF's I would say a stepped header that starts at 1-5/8" and goes to 1-3/4" then into a merge collector that is between 12 to 14" long with a 3" diameter would be best...primary lengths of the pipes really depends on the cam you use. Yes, 2.5 pipes with an X or H and some good mufflers like Magnaflow would be the best...........I also dislike the pipes turning down before the axle.....I like pipes than come out the back and turn down much like the early Mustang non-GT's.
Yes, a good set of headers like Hooker, Headman or Dougs will cost upwards of $500.....you only get what you pay for.............
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Didn't have time last night to dent it, but I had time to look a bit to pipes available on the market.
@ Olerodder : I found only one exhaust stepped 1-5/8 to 1-3/4... It's a Husler race ultimate for mid to high rpm at 850$ !
I don't think I'll go for that much money.
If not stepped, what diameter would be good?

Should I look to ceramic or would a painted one would be enough?
how long will last a painted exhaust?
 

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Discussion Starter #59
Clutch problem solved (not perfect but satisfying) denting the exhaust and playing with the settings.
:)

Concerning my export braces install, I'll have new shock tower tops and needed hardware probably on wednesday.
I've borrowed a little bottle jack and I've cut a piece of wood the right size:
taking off the air filter, the monty bar, the starter relay and the distributor cap (maybe the distributor itself) I hope I'll find good anchor points to do what I want.

According to you, shall I loosen all the fender's bolts when I do that?
Will a jack under the engine crossmember help?
shall I loosen the engine crossmember?
What should I be carefull about?
 

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Clutch problem solved (not perfect but satisfying) denting the exhaust and playing with the settings.
:)

Concerning my export braces install, I'll have new shock tower tops and needed hardware probably on wednesday.
I've borrowed a little bottle jack and I've cut a piece of wood the right size:
taking off the air filter, the monty bar, the starter relay and the distributor cap (maybe the distributor itself) I hope I'll find good anchor points to do what I want.

According to you, shall I loosen all the fender's bolts when I do that?
Will a jack under the engine crossmember help?
shall I loosen the engine crossmember?
What should I be carefull about?

How far off from the holes are you? I would think gently(!) Lifting some of the engine weight would help. Maybe with a floor Jack on the oil pan with a piece of wood. Not lifting the whole engine or stressing the mounts, just taking some of the weight. Personally, I'd try that before unbolting too much.
 
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