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I don't think all the bolts need to be loosened, but maybe the the valance and stone guard. I'd be more concerned about he rad support, is there any bowing to it? That's really what is holding you front end square. How far off are you? Maybe you got a defective part.
 

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When you are spreading the towers...you don't want to take any weight off the suspension....leave everything bolted together. If you start unbolting stuff and then spread the towers (I am assuming you only have to spread them .6 cm or less?????, and if you have to spread them more than that you may have another issue) when you start to put things back together the sheet metal is going to be misaligned.
One other important part of this since the towers have done some sagging is that you will need an L shaped piece of steel to go under the body seam where the export brace bolts to the firewall....this is very thin sheet metal and after bringing the towers back into alignment it will have a tendency to crack or split....I would highly suggest you have this when you bolt the export brace to the firewall.
Loosening the cross member under the motor will be ok, just don't take it off and leave enough threads to make sure it won't allow the cross member to move more than .6 cm.....assuming you don't have to pull more than that to align the holes.
Does the car have the OE tower braces on it now.........or were they taken off at some point.
Could you send a picture of the export brace and what you call tower tops?
 

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Didn't have time last night to dent it, but I had time to look a bit to pipes available on the market.
@ Olerodder : I found only one exhaust stepped 1-5/8 to 1-3/4... It's a Husler race ultimate for mid to high rpm at 850$ !
I don't think I'll go for that much money.
If not stepped, what diameter would be good?

Should I look to ceramic or would a painted one would be enough?
how long will last a painted exhaust?
Yes, good headers are not cheap....too bad you don't live closer as we could make a set over a weekend.
I would look for 1-3/4" long tube and look for the header manufacturer to talk about merge collector with a collector cone inside where all of the pipes come together.
Ceramic is good as it reduces the under hood heat....with that said most of the ceramic coating you get when you buy off the shelf headers is extremely thin and really the headers should be coated on the inside also....and this is only done when you take a bare set of headers to a good coater...also you need to maintain the ceramic coating...anytime you touch the coating it will leave finger prints and these need to be cleaned before firing the motor.
Get the headers, use VHT header paint in the color of you choice, follow the directions and redo them once every year or so....remember...it's only paint.
If you were to get Stainless Steel headers you would never have to worry about painting.

First picture shows the cone inside the merge collector, second shows the 13 degree merge of the pipes into 3-1/2 collector and the third shows the headers on my Maverick drag car....just by changing the collector I brought the torque down on the motor from peak of 540lbft at 5900rmp to 544lbft at 5700rpm.
Each tube on these headers was individual so I could take them off in just a few minutes.....
 

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Discussion Starter #64 (Edited)
I am assuming you only have to spread them .6 cm or less?????, and if you have to spread them more than that you may have another issue)

you will need an L shaped piece of steel to go under the body seam where the export brace bolts to the firewall....

Could you send a picture of the export brace and what you call tower tops?
1- I've just tried quickly, but I think it's way worse than 6mm.
I have an adjustable monty bar and I had to install it the shortest possible...
:hide:
I'll take good measures this evening.

2- Yes, you sent me the link to this L shaped piece. I'm planing on making it, the guys I work with have all necessary tooling for that.

3- what I call tower tops are just the metal part between the shock's upper bolts and the 3 bolts on the tower.

and yes, the original braces are on the car but I don't think they make any difference.

I know the front of my car is not perfect, there are weldings that are not original and I believe that the radiator / battery / water bag area has all been replaced.
Hard to know what a 50 year old car has been thru!


Your exhaust looks great!
So if no stepped, 1-3/4 will be good?
:popcorn:

I'm so glad I found this forum !!!! :bow:
 

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1- I've just tried quickly, but I think it's way worse than 6mm.
I have an adjustable monty bar and I had to install it the shortest possible...
:hide:
I'll take good measures this evening.

2- Yes, you sent me the link to this L shaped piece. I'm planing on making it, the guys I work with have all necessary tooling for that.

3- what I call tower tops are just the metal part between the shock's upper bolts and the 3 bolts on the tower.

and yes, the original braces are on the car but I don't think they make any difference.

I know the front of my car is not perfect, there are weldings that are not original and I believe that the radiator / battery / water bag has been replaced.
Hard to know what a 50 year old car has been thru!


Your exhaust looks great!
So if no stepped, 1-3/4 will be good?
:popcorn:

I'm so glad I found this forum !!!! :bow:
Could you please take a picture of your engine bay....if you have more than 6 mm off....just seems like a lot if the OE braces are still attached to firewall and tops of the towers....if it's 12mm off then I'd say the frame is bent and you need to put it on a frame straightener to make sure everything is square.
Also, could take pictures of the export brace?
Yes, the 1-3/4" tubes would be as big as I'd go for the 347 motor....headers for your current motor would be 1-5/8" diameter max....

On my 66 GT I had to put it on a frame table and it was off almost 12mm. A normal variance would be 3mm on a frame....I had an OE Ford Export brace and it wouldn't fit, very similar to your issue....after straightening the frame/body it fit perfectly....Where can I find a front tower to firewall brace for my 1970 Maverick - Ask.com YouTube Search
 

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Discussion Starter #66
What would you think of this kind of stuff (Summit):
1966 FORD MUSTANG JBA Headers Competition-Ready Headers 6610S
 

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What would you think of this kind of stuff (Summit):
1966 FORD MUSTANG JBA Headers Competition-Ready Headers 6610S


Yes, they look good....make sure they will fit whatever head you're going to decide to go with..........hate to spend this kind of money only to find out they won't fit an aftermarket head.
 

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Discussion Starter #68
back to my Export braces : I've just measured... As I feared it's more than 6mm, it's just a little less than 1/2 inch !
I didn't borrow that bottle jack for no reason... gotta stretch that bxxxx before going to the alignment shop to set the caster to Borgeson's specs.
No big deal if the car is not perfectly strait, as long as the wheels are in line.
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #70
As long as they can align it that's all that matters!
Well putting a jack under the hood to stretch the car sounds so stupid that I can't wait trying! :D

But when I look to your album and I see what you've been thru, I think my problems are cosmetic. :thumb:
 

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Well putting a jack under the hood to stretch the car sounds so stupid that I can't wait trying! :D

But when I look to your album and I see what you've been thru, I think my problems are cosmetic. :thumb:

Ha! It does seem like a lot of work, but I'd do it again in a heart beat. But a little more planned out. I totally understand on what you mean about using the jack under the hood.
 

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I haven't done it but I've read that jacking at the center of the crossmember does cause the shock towers to "sag" a little and separate the towers sometimes enough to fit the export brace.


Sent from my iPhone using Mustang Evolution
 

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Discussion Starter #73
Here's a picture of under my hood for Olerodder:



I should receive my shock tower tops and bolts today so I will soon try to fit the Export braces using the jack.
 

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Discussion Starter #74
So, here we go !



bucher style! a piece of wood, a jack and a little strap to keep these things aligned... 1/2 inch in a few seconds with no effort. No cracking noise, no problem.



now with export braces and new shock tower tops.
everything worked perfectly as planed.
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #77
Next step is to replace my wheels. I hate my 80's style 14" rims and even more my 195/65/14 that are way too small, old and hard.

I think the ones I like best are the American Racing Torque thrust D (TT10)... Shelby "R" style
in 15x7 they have a 3-3/4 BS which I know is not the best for the early bodies.
Will they fit my car with 225/60 ?
shall I have my fenders rolled? front? rear? both?
What about tires? are BF T/A a good choice?

I was thinking of 225/60 in the back and 215/60 in front. is that a good idea or should I go for 225 all around?
 

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Discussion Starter #78 (Edited)
I have another concern:
I don't like my actual ride heights.
I have:
- 1" lowering coils and Armin/Shelby drop 1"
- 1" lowering leafs (mid eye 4.5 leafs and standard poly shackles)

and my car looks like the rear is lower than the front...
:-/

in the front I measure 14-1/2 on each side which is supposed to be the original height. So now I start wondering if they didn't send me regular height springs...

in the back I measure 14-3/8

I'm lost !
I don't know what to do but it looks wrong.
 

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Next step is to replace my wheels. I hate my 80's style 14" rims and even more my 195/65/14 that are way too small, old and hard.

I think the ones I like best are the American Racing Torque thrust D (TT10)... Shelby "R" style
in 15x7 they have a 3-3/4 BS which I know is not the best for the early bodies.
Will they fit my car with 225/60 ?
shall I have my fenders rolled? front? rear? both?
What about tires? are BF T/A a good choice?

I was thinking of 225/60 in the back and 215/60 in front. is that a good idea or should I go for 225 all around?
Are you talking about these wheels,
http://www.americanracing.com/wheel/4480/vnt70r

I had the Shelby GT350 wheels on mine 30 years ago....and I used 225x60/15's on all four corners. I just don't remember what springs I had in the rear and front....I also had lowered the UCA's as per the Shleby drop. 215x60's are too small for the front....although the picture shown was when the car was totally stripped of the interior and had no motor or transmission when it was put back together it was the perfect ride height, just a little lower than stock or about the same as the OE GT350's.
 

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I have another concern:
I don't like my actual ride heights.
I have:
- 1" lowering coils and Armin/Shelby drop 1"
- 1" lowering leafs (mid eye 4.5 leafs and standard poly shackles)

and my car looks like the rear is lower than the front...
:-/

in the front I measure 14-1/2 on each side which is supposed to be the original height. So now I start wondering if they didn't send me regular height springs...

in the back I measure 14-3/8

I'm lost !
I don't know what to do but it looks wrong.
Who's front coil springs did you buy and were they from the same company you bought the rear springs from. When you measured....where did you measure from, the ground or the center of the wheel?
Could you take a picture of your car from the side.....measure from the center of the wheel to lip of the body, both front sides and both rear sides.
How long have you had the springs installed, and how many miles have you driven. New springs do settle as do new leaf springs....they just don't settle as much. New front coils can settle as much as 1/4" to 1/2" depending....and usually takes about 200/300 miles to completely settle.
Setting up a specific ride height on the old Mustang front ends takes a lot of work...old design....there is a company that's making dropped spindles for the 65/66 Mustang although I'm not sure there are on the market till next month, the company CSRP....
 
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