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Discussion Starter #81
I bought my springs at CJ. no specific brand, just random "one inch lowering coils"... when I bought those I didn't know much about Mustangs, I had to replace urgently upper and lower control arms and I bought these prings a bit too fast.

Of course I take my measure from wheel center to fender lip!
:-D

settle? all my suspension parts are 3500 miles (mid november)
since then I dont like how it sits but I had other things to take care of first as the brakes, the cooling, the steering... Now I get to the point where I want to weld my traction bars front anchor point and I want to find my correct ride height before that.

But coils are pretty cheap, I could just buy other ones if you guys have a good advise to give me.
I'd like to drop the front to around 13 inches
 

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All good information as I have no idea how long ago you have done the mods.
If I were you and as you don't know who's springs they are or the spring rate and I assume they are not progressive....I'd take the front springs out and cut 1/2 coil. This should drop the car about 3/4" to 1" which should get you a lot closer to front ride height. If that is correct then I would call a real spring company like Eibach and give them the lenght of the spring and see if they have something close to what you have. Also I'd get progressive springs if you can as it will give you a better ride. Is the back where you want it or do you want it to be the same as the front. In the rear did you get 4 leaf mid eye springs or 5 leaf?
I'd take the front coils out and cut 1/2 coil out, then see where the ride height falls and if the front is correct and the back is too high I'd use a like a 1/2" spacer with the proper wedge to get the pinion angle correct....in fact where is the pinion angle now with the car sitting the way it is....whenever you lower a car or change the suspension geometry you should check the pinion angle in relation to the transmission angle.....

One last thing is that the back spacing on the wheels is going to need to be around 4-1/4"....the 3-3/4" is really not going to be enough.
 

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Discussion Starter #83
I guess the rear is ok: there's a page on Steeve Mustang's site that shows cars and their ride heights...
My reading is that a front/rear difference of 1" gives a nice horizontal ride. 1-1/2" gives a little more agressive ride.

they talk about "Mustang plus" springs with a 620 rate but I don't know that brand. Looking around I find "Grap a Trak", "Global West"...
 

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All companies buy their springs from a major supplier like Eibach or H&R. If you want good answers give Global West a call, I've been to their facility and bought their products and they are first class.
Since you have no idea where you are currently with your springs and since it is easy to do I'd just cut 1/2" coil out and see where it sits....then call Global West.
Mustangs Plus is good also, and they buy their springs from one of the above. I've also been to Mustangs Plus many times as I used to live in Stockton, CA....that is where Mustangs has their shop.
 

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I know you are not going to spend this kind of money on front suspension...if I was going to build another 65/66 Mustang this is probably what I'd put on the front end.....Total Control Products

Actually made by Chris Alston's Chassisworks.
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Of course when I visit TCP web site I have a half boner, but this is too far from my actual project. Maybe in 5 or 10 years when I'll want to re-do my ride and get it better.

Actually I want to find rims, tires, a 9" rear end, an auto lock, headers, 2-1/2 exhaust line, rebuild an AC and built a strocker 347... my wallet's gonna cry hard enough.
 

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Of course when I visit TCP web site I have a half boner, but this is too far from my actual project. Maybe in 5 or 10 years when I'll want to re-do my ride and get it better.

Actually I want to find rims, tires, a 9" rear end, an auto lock, headers, 2-1/2 exhaust line, rebuild an AC and built a strocker 347... my wallet's gonna cry hard enough.
Your wallet is going to do more than cry.....it will scream!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #90 (Edited)
Question about heat... in summer.

Actually I have a tiny water leak on radiator lower hose. Nothing bad, no over heating and only 1/2gallon of distilled water per week.

As I'm gonna flush to replace that hose, I'd like to add a tap on my heater core system : even when heater is off, it still brings some heat inside the car.
I guess I don't need that during summer in Texas.

1- could someone confirm the heater core hose diameter? is it 5/8" ?
2- where would you guys install that tap?
3- what do you think about this thing found on E-bay:



Any other upgarde idea?

I've also seen electric powered valve taps... wired on the heater box blower (using a relay) could be a fun idea don't you think?
 

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Maybe it's just because it's late in the day, but in my mind you may affect the flow through the engine? Rather than shutting it off, would you be better off bypassing it instead? Did the V8 have a bypass hose at the pump back then?


Sent from my iPhone using Mustang Evolution
 

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Maybe it's just because it's late in the day, but in my mind you may affect the flow through the engine? Rather than shutting it off, would you be better off bypassing it instead? Did the V8 have a bypass hose at the pump back then?


Sent from my iPhone using Mustang Evolution
Correct.
Installing a valve on the heater hose is a bad idea. The heater core is the bypass for the water pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #93 (Edited)
So water pressure is gonna get too high when thermostat's not yet open?

So I should do a kind of bypass with a 3 way valve and a "T"?


don't you guys feel heat even when the levers are in "no heat" position?
 

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So water pressure is gonna get too high when thermostat's not yet open?

So I should do a kind of bypass with a 3 way valve and a "T"?


don't you guys feel heat even when the levers are in "no heat" position?
That valve would solve the bypass problem, but you will still be getting some hot coolant into the heater core through the natural thermosyphon action of heated liquids. It just won't be circulating through the heater core as it is now.
I would just do something simple, like disconnecting the hoses from the heater core, and installing a 5/8 90 degree elbow onto the ends of the heater hose where they attatch to the heater core. This will complete the bypass "loop", and keep all of the coolant from entering the heater core.
If there is excessive heat entering the passenger compartment, when the temperature control is turned all of the way to cold, you may want to inspect the blend door located inside the HVAC box. If it is not closing properly it will allow the heat to enter the cabin, almost as if you have the heater on.
 

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Discussion Starter #95 (Edited)
Haha! there's everything on Amazon!


I think I found what I was looking for!
:)

by the way, I have a question about the heater control panel on Mustangs...
there are 3 cables:
- one controls if hot air flows towards legs or windshield defrost
- one opens the door to the outside air flow coming from the passenger side

what does the third one?
I was wondering... to see if I could use that third cable to pilot my bypass project.
 

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One of the cables operates that blend door that I was referring to. It determines how much air is allowed to pass through the heater core and heat up the interior of the vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #97
One of the cables operates that blend door that I was referring to. It determines how much air is allowed to pass through the heater core and heat up the interior of the vehicle.
Yes, I think that's the one I was refering to as air flow...
so there's still one that I don't identify
 

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I believe that there are two blend doors. One controls the air to the footwell/dashboard, and one controls the amount of heat desired. The third cable controls the outside air vent function.

Perhaps someone like Tyoung can verify this.
 

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There's a heat, defrost and temp. Heat is the blend door, defrost is which vent the air comes out of and temp is controlling the outside air coming in. At least that's how it is on 68's.
 

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Same on '65-'66. Left knob down is heater. Center knob is temp control. Right knob down is defrost. Heat and defrost both have to be down to get defrost. They are cables so you can control the volume of airflow. I would buy a length of heater hose and bypass the core as recommended by previous poster.


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