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Discussion Starter #101
today a little bit of imagination and I ended with a home made tacho cup!

 

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Discussion Starter #102
Back to the suspension:
I bought Grab-A-Track 620 lowering 1" springs found on E-bay (80$)
That's it, they're on the car and I ended up with the ride height I wanted: 13" (from center to lip)

Now that I like how it sits, next step is to install the Scott Drake traction bars.

I found a pair of Torq Thrust 15x7 thru the forum but damn, they're 4h driving from my place... That sucks!
I'm trying to find friends/friends of friends to pick them up for me but that's not so easy...

Stay tuned, more adventure in next episode!
 

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Discussion Starter #105
I don't know... News soon.
But problem. My friends voted for Magnum 500s, so again I'm stuck between these 2 wheels.

I'll have all time to think. If you like classic scooters Vespa and lambretta, come and be drunk with us all weekend around a lac north Austin !
 

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I don't know... News soon.
But problem. My friends voted for Magnum 500s, so again I'm stuck between these 2 wheels.

I'll have all time to think. If you like classic scooters Vespa and lambretta, come and be drunk with us all weekend around a lac north Austin !

Have you looked at tire tack? They have a decent selection of wheels
 

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Discussion Starter #107
nice site!

Assuming I won't go to 16", there are 3 wheels that I like in 15x7:
- Magnum 500: period correct, perfect BS, classic look for the old lady...
(negative: heavy wheels)
- Aluminum Magnum 500: lighter than the originals, no risk of chrome peeling, perfect BS
(negative: modern look)
- Torq thrust D: race look, period OK, light weight
(negative: small BS = probably roll fenders)

my french racing team votes go to chromed Magnums and white letters on tires, my american coworkers pushes me toward the Torq Thrust and black tires.
My best friend loves the Ansen Sprint but as he is a Honda lover and as I'm not a hudge fan of these wheels...

So I still don't know.

2 new problemS from yesturday:

1- the CLUTCH starts acting wierd again... I already broke the 20$ little braket that goes with the clutch lever in January. I was stuck, deap ****, so I took the car to a Mustang specialized shop in my town (the only one) and as we had to drop the gearbox and that the gearbox was dying, I had it fully overhauled. They've replaced the broken piece, the lever is not original but it's a Dynacorn. I told the to replace the clutch if needed so I would not have to worry again... They told me that my clutch was in great shape and that it was no need to replace it.
Things where good when I left the shop. A month later I've installed the Borgesson steering and so I replaced the Z-bar linkage and found the proper adjustment.
Clutch has always been pretty hard. No idea what clutch/spring is inside.
Yesturday disengaging the clutch I heard (I think I did) a little clic and now it's hard to get the clutch to fully disengage...
Damn, I'm pissed!!!
I've gotta find what's going on.

2- Rolling noise: I believe that's since I've replaced my springs for lowering ones... But not sure if it's related or not.
When driving I feel like something is wrong. Same as if a wheel bearing was dying or if a caliper was touching a rim. Could it be the UCA touching my 14" wheel because of the drop?
It's not the engine: the noise is the same when I let the car go in neutral.
Or it could be comming from the rear, my differential is the last original part on the car... I don't even know if there's oil in it... maybe one bearing is dead? I would be surprised if that occured just when I did some change in front... I assume it's related to my front drop.

So I'm super happy. Everything was doing good, slowly but surely work was going forward. And now I feel like going backwards: driving slow because of this noise and fighting with my clutch.

Yes, driving a 50 year old classic is a hard life style full of surprises...
 

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Discussion Starter #110
No ideas on the clutch, but the rolling noise could be the inner lip of the rim hitting the upper control arm
I hope that's the case... As I'm looking for 15s it would solve the issue right away!
:)
 

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Discussion Starter #111
It's getting worse, clutch is no longer properly disengaging!
looks like the same part broke again.

I called Alamo Classic Ponies, the "specialists" as they call themselves.
Their answer is that anyway I can forget any kind of warranty since I've replaced the Z-bar myself since they've worked on the car.
Thanks guys, really professional.

So as their garage is the slowest ever their prices are the highest ever, they don't know how to tell you how long work will take... I guess that whatever has to be done I'll have to do it myself.

what should I do? how do I get to the inside of the bell house?
drop the exhaust line, drop the gearbox?
 

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Yes. It looks like you are going to have to remove the transmission. While it is apart, carefully inspect the clutch fork/pivot ball assembly for wear.
 

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Is this caused by the linkage/Z bar hitting the headers?
Also check to see how much wear there is on the clutch fork where it holds the throwout bearing, or if one the springs has broken off.
Like was said, it's time to tear everything apart to get the fork.
Did you replace the clutch? If no I would buy a new arm and throughout bearing as they are cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #114
Did you replace the clutch? If no I would buy a new arm and throughout bearing as they are cheap.
No, in January I had no tools and not enough guts to play with the gearbox... The guys from the shop told me that it was useless to replace the clutch, that mine was recent and in a very good shape.
I believed them then.

So they've just replaced the broken part and that's all and I went away with a fixed clutch system and overhauled gearbox and shaft.

Now I'm mad cause I payed a lot to forget about clutch and tranny problems, I've left my car to the best "specialists" in town and 3 month later here comes the clutch again!
I have no time to spend twice on the same system, that just pisses me off, I have plenty of other things to restaure on this car!
:banghead:

So now I have a few days off, what should I order to get a good clutch working fine for the next 15 years?
pedal is OK, Z-bar is new... So what clutch, what bearing, what support, what upgraded stuff should I look for?
:confused:
 

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No, in January I had no tools and not enough guts to play with the gearbox... The guys from the shop told me that it was useless to replace the clutch, that mine was recent and in a very good shape.
I believed them then.

So they've just replaced the broken part and that's all and I went away with a fixed clutch system and overhauled gearbox and shaft.

Now I'm mad cause I payed a lot to forget about clutch and tranny problems, I've left my car to the best "specialists" in town and 3 month later here comes the clutch again!
I have no time to spend twice on the same system, that just pisses me off, I have plenty of other things to restaure on this car!
:banghead:

So now I have a few days off, what should I order to get a good clutch working fine for the next 15 years?
pedal is OK, Z-bar is new... So what clutch, what bearing, what support, what upgraded stuff should I look for?
:confused:
Well....lasting 15 years is a tall order....I am assuming the there is a machine shop in your town that will resurface the stock flywheel....find one that will do the job quickly, take the flywheel off and take it to them...shouldn't cost much. Does the car have a stocker motor...I forgot....if so then just buy a stock clutch and pressure plate along with a new throughout bearing. If the clutch kit doesn't have a short plastic shaft to put into the clutch/pressure plate you will need to buy one...this will align both the pressure plate and clutch when you put it back on your resurfaced flywheel. I'd buy a new clutch fork and check the pivot like was mentioned above. Also check the pilot bushing in the end of the crank to make sure it's not worn out....these are really fun to replace!?#
It is important to have the flywheel resurfaced it you want the clutch to survive.
I am assuming you know how to setup the proper gap for clutch engagement and no worries....if not we can discuss it later....One other thing that would be handy and not cost much is a plastic plug for the transmission tail shaft so when you pull the driveline all of the tranny fluid doesn't spill out...kind of messy.
 

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Discussion Starter #116 (Edited)
Actually there's still a worn 302 under the hood but I still plan on building a 347 following the part list that you wrote for me.
I will re-use all clutch parts the day I'll swap.
So if I have to replace parts now they have to be able to handle the future 347.

So what do we have inside?
- a flywheel that has to be machined
- flywheel bolts
- a clutch disc : what would be the good one?
- a pressure plate : same question
- 6 pressure plate bolts
- a pilot bearing ?
- a crank pilot bearing?
- a release bearing?
- a clutch fork
- a fork braket : that's the part that I broke in january.
and I will need an alignment tool.

What would be good buys?
How do I get there?

a friend of mine owns a garage and as actually he doesn't have enough mechanics, I can use one of his lifts !

So what's the sequence?
drop exhaust line, drop shaft, put a plug on the gearbox for the fluid, drop the gearbox... And I'm good?

And what about throwing all these parts away and go to hydraulic?
 

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Discussion Starter #117
earlier I was talking about a new "rolling noise" that appeared whith my last drop.
I found it.
It's not the UCA, it's the front sway bar that runs in contact with the chassis!!!
So in fact my front axle is not far from being "rigid"... This is not good at all.
what shall I do?
 

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Actually there's still a worn 302 under the hood but I still plan on building a 347 following the part list that you wrote for me.
I will re-use all clutch parts the day I'll swap.
So if I have to replace parts now they have to be able to handle the future 347.

So what do we have inside?
- a flywheel that has to be machined
- flywheel bolts
- a clutch disc : what would be the good one?
- a pressure plate : same question
- 6 pressure plate bolts
- a pilot bearing ?
- a crank pilot bearing? (these two are the same thing)
- a release bearing?
- a clutch fork
- a fork braket : that's the part that I broke in january. (Is this the pivot that bolts/screws into the bellhousing?)
and I will need an alignment tool.

What would be good buys?
How do I get there?

a friend of mine owns a garage and as actually he doesn't have enough mechanics, I can use one of his lifts !

So what's the sequence?
drop exhaust line, drop shaft, put a plug on the gearbox for the fluid, drop the gearbox... And I'm good?

And what about throwing all these parts away and go to hydraulic?
Ok, just buy stock clutch parts and yes, have the stock flywheel surfaced. When you build the 347 you will be using a different flywheel and it will most likely be a different weight.....unless you are going to install the 347 soon just buy stock parts and they will be left with the motor you have in the car now.
The McCloud hydraulic unit looks really nice and I installed a hydraulic clutch system in my hot rod (1948 Chevy) in the early 70's....that way you don't have to worry about linkage....it just takes firewall space.

Before the car goes on the hoist take the shifter handle out....not sure what shifter you have but the shifter stick needs to come out before the trans will come out.
So the car is on the hoist...I don't know what you exhaust system looks like and if you can't drop the trans straight down with the exhaust intact then unbolt it from the headers and mufflers. Take the drive line out and plug the rear of the trans. As long as you have help unbolt the linkage from the clutch fork, unbolt the 4 trans bolts to the bellhousing, don't take them completely out until you have another person help hold the trans....then take the bolts out, with both people holding on to the trans wiggle it out and put it on the floor. Take the bellhousing out, then put your spline tool in the clutch, unbolt the pressure plate bolts...take it out. You will probably need an air impact to take the flywheel bolts out unless you have a tool to hold the flywheel from turning.
Putting it back together is the opposite.
 

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The reason you will not be able to use your flywheel or balancer is;

Small-block Fords were externally balanced two ways from the factory: 28-ounce offset and 50-ounce offset. Get this one wrong and we won't need to talk about dashboard chatter-you'll live it. Small-block (260, 289, 302) Fords manufactured prior to 1982 were 28-ounce offset-balanced. When reciprocating weights (rods and pistons) became heavier in 1982 with the 5.0L H.O. engines, offset balance increased to 50 ounces. This means you can't use a 5.0L H.O. flywheel/harmonic balancer on your pre-'82 260, 289, or 302. It also means you can't use a pre-'82 260, 289, 302 flywheel/harmonic balancer on a 5.0L H.O. Small-block Fords are externally balanced, which means the flywheel and the harmonic balancer must be balanced with the crank, the rods, and the pistons.
 

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Discussion Starter #120
interesting!
Thanks Olerodder, your answers are always a great help.
 
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