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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone,

I am new here and I need help bad! I own a 2000 v6 3.8 mustang and it shakes while its on Idle and driving. I am really stressed out with all the money I've put into it not counting labor and it has not fixed the problem.

So far I've done the following:
Cables
plugs
gas filter
air filter
2 new injectors/ other one's seem to be working fine
weld/sealed headers
new maf sensor
harmonic balancer no more than a year old (bought from ford dealer)
engine motor mounts no more than a year old

Does any one have an idea as to what might me causing this problem. I need help!
 

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I had the same problem with my 94 mustang. It shook while idling not so much noticeable while driving though. My problem was in the wiring from the o2 sensors was shorted out from previous mechanic work. Had new wiring done and she smooth as can be now. Hope this might help. Trust me, went through basically all you did also, don't give up on her!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
The only code that I got was P0102 (Low output from MAF sensor). I changed the MAF sensor thinking that would fix the problem, but it didnt. Do you think the wire is the one giving out the low output?
 

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Vacuum leaks? Some have had bad o2's also that cause this.
 

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Pablo G. said:
The only code that I got was P0102 (Low output from MAF sensor). I changed the MAF sensor thinking that would fix the problem, but it didnt. Do you think the wire is the one giving out the low output?
If you could find a way to test the wire to the MAF it might be the cause, could be not getting enough voltage
 

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Lorraine's driver
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The only code that I got was P0102 (Low output from MAF sensor). I changed the MAF sensor thinking that would fix the problem, but it didnt. Do you think the wire is the one giving out the low output?
Have you recently cleaned your CAI filter (the ones that use oil on them)? This can cause a P0102 code. I know you have a new MAF, but if the filter has too much oil on it, the same will happen to the new MAF.

Disconnect the battery and remove the MAF. Get some MAF cleaner and clean it. Make sure it's completely dry before you put it all back together and reconnect the battery. After all this and you start the engine, your idle will be high and a little erratic unless you perform the idle re-learn.

Here's the idle re-learn (which is really idle and fuel trim re-learn)

Disconnect NEG from battery for 30min (you will have done this already)

Reconnect and start car, let idle as eng gets to operating temp. Let it idle a little over a minute

Turn on A/C to MAX, let idle little over a minute, turn off A/C

Then drive the car for at least 10 miles

Hope that solves your problem.:good:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The Maf sensor should be spotless, it's brand new. Is there a way for my self to check the air control valve?

Another think if I am not mistaken theirs a cable that's shoots a signal to the PCM. I tested it to see the voltage. According to specs when you start your car and its on idle it should shoot .9 to 1v, and gradually go up as you accelerate. The readings i got was .7 while on idle and on 1500 rpm if I am not mistaken it should be at 1.8v and I got 1.6v. I was always 2 digits lower than what it was suppose to be. Is that bad?
 

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Lorraine's driver
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You can remove the IAC and clean it with something like throttle body cleaner. I have done this with mine. Many times they get so black with carbon build up, it doesn't matter how much you clean it, so it's possible you may need to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks,

I'll see how bad it is, even replacing it if I have to. I'll get back with everyone in a few days and report the outcome. Wish me luck.
 

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Lorraine's driver
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Thanks,

I'll see how bad it is, even replacing it if I have to. I'll get back with everyone in a few days and report the outcome. Wish me luck.
Try to not get the end with the wire connection wet with cleaner.

Cool man, good luck!
 
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