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Discussion Starter #1
Okay, so to start my car is past due for an oil change (about 1000 miles) I never let this happen, but I've got to have my car for work and i haven't had a day off for the last 26 days, (I've been taking shifts because of school) anyway, this knock has gotten progressively worse. Originally would sometimes idle out when first started which seemed to only be when the engine was hot or it was hot outside. The "knocking" kept coming and going until today when it's constant and it's loud. Ok top of that the car won't start up nearly at all after the first few tries which is weird because it started fine this morning when it was still cool outside. I'm thinking it could be a valve, and to mention, once it starts, it runs fine and I don't have any real issues. Does anyone have any ideas or any clue what could be wrong? It's not an exhaust leak, it's not spark plugs, and it's not the fuel injectors. Also if it is the valves what kind of cost am I looking at?


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Does the knocking happen once with every revolution of the engine? or is it more of a constant and random clunking/rattling?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Alright, so I left my car to sit and let a friend pick me up, got back, started the car, no knocking, car is inning fine. However there is a small oil leak. This is a good sign for me because now I know that it is define eyelet temperature related. Today was one of the hottest days in my area and of course the car was the worst today. And it's the first time it's leaked oil. But it was dry enough that you can easily tell it stopped when it cooled off outside. Regardless I am taking it to my mechanic bright and early and I asked to get heavier oil out it and check out the leak. Hopefully the oil was just super thin and it was just a valve knocking. I'm also having the oil filters replaced if that's what it was. Fingers crossed guys.


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I don't know much but I think an oil leak is an oil leak, heavier oil or not.


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If its a small seeping leak, a higher weight oil can be a temp fix. And actually a long term "temp" fix depending on the leak. My 5.4L Expy used to eat a quart of oil every 2-3k miles. I went from Motorcraft 5w-20 to Rotella 5w-40 and can get 5-6k out of it now without even having to add a quart.


Original spec oil weight for these motors is 5w-30 anyway, 20 weight is like water. 20 weight was only recommended by Ford for CAFE reasons, the rest of the world uses 5w-30 in the modular and many of use have cars with hood stickers that still say 5w-30.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don't know much but I think an oil leak is an oil leak, heavier oil or not.


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Over time, oil thins out, thus getting oil changes on time. And I am getting 5w-40 but he's going to go ahead and check the valves. Hopefully it's just the oil and if something is wrong in hoping it's just a spring. In which I could have replaced myself but j didn't want to take any chances.


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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Before someone goes off on a tangent about motor oil, yes, oil thins out over the first couple thousand miles. Depending on the oil itself will determine the life and weather or not it thickens or thins in the long run. The same reason you see vehicles who have never had an oil change and the oil is basically sludge. Or ones that die because the oil has leaked out because it was just thin enough to drain. I'm sure that article has a lot of relevance but not all oil is the same. Regardless. I have an oil leak when the temperature outside is very hot. I do not when it is cold. This could also be due to the fact that heat expands. Even the article pointed out that oil is affected by heat. Besides all of this, if I have to replace the valves or covers or springs I'm going to go ahead and do a cam swap. Any tips on a good cam? And springs if necessary for the cam.


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Any tips on a good cam? And springs if necessary for the cam.
I'm biased. But I love my crower cams.


Crower 99-04 4.6L/5.4L 2V Modular Cam Shafts (Stage 1)

SKU: CRO-62800-2

Performance level - Stage 1 - Excellent for stock replacement. No other modifications required.
INT/EXH - Dur @ .050” Lift: 200°/204° RR: 1.8/1.8 Gross Lift: .540”/.549” LSA: 114° RPM: Idle to 5500 Redline: 6000
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I saw the crowed cams and I'm highly interested. But on the bright side, took it up this morning and worked with my mechanic taking the valve covers off and all that good stuff. One of the actually bracketed was rattling because the oil was too thin, or it was too hot, idk. He said took thin but apparently it's not what it's actually is according to the article either way, replaced it with 10w-50 and no sounds, cars running fine, no issues whatsoever. Except a small transmission leak, wasn't oil.


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Lol 10w-50 is a little excessive but it'll be fine provided you let it warm up properly especially when it starts getting cold. HIGHLY recommend the Rotella 5w-40 for winter ops. Its $20 for a gallon of it on Amazon and Autozone is having a sale on it too right now. I just picked up 2 gallons and a filter for $50 tax included.
 

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I've never seen it that low but I would not be surprised. They do have spectacular prices on M1 tho. $27 for 5 qts of Extended Performance M1 is hard to beat.


I'll keep running the Rotella tho especially in the Steeda car once its up and running. Centri blowers beat the **** out of engine oil and the Rotella is designed for that sort of abuse.
 
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