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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This may turn into a general discussion thread but id like to get some suggestions and opinions and what you guys think would be a good direction to go with my stang.

Right now its a 95 3.8, has some body work to be done but that's not a concern right now, this threads about drivetrain.

My initial idea was to go for a splitport 4.2 stroker swap and turbo the engine..

I've got some other ideas floating around, and id like to hear what the guys/gals on here think.

Ideas right now.
Splitport 4.2 swap/ turbo possible
Singleport 4.2 with 3.8 heads/top end and cam./ turbo or supercharger possible.
Carbed 5.0 swap
Carbed 350 chevy swap
Any other possibilities??

Some questions I have are, what is the power difference between a straight 4.2 split port and a 4.2 singleport? From what I've read it should be about 30-40 hp lower than the 4.2 split port, which is still a 30+ hp gain from a stock 3.8 bottom end..sound about right?

Is there anything that makes a stock 4.2 bottom end stronger than a stock 3.8 bottom end to handle low boost better?

My budget is around $500, so turbo ideas are on hold for now. It'll be a junkyard build, and as soon as my taxes come in Ill be starting buying parts.
 

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I would say you should save some more and add to your budget. 500 wont be enough to get a lot done. Even with salvage yard parts there are a lot of little additional things that will add up very quick.
 

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Yea 500 is not enough I am actually in the process of doing a splitport swap.
which is almost the same as a 4.2 swap almost.
Here is my price list for the 2001 engine split port swap....

3.8 engine-$400.00 (with 73,347 miles saw the car and everything side was damaged pretty bad but engine was ok...) with wiring harness and coil
F-150 or E-150 fuel rail- $45.00 needs to be return style
Gasket and seals-$220.00 might as well while you got it
Head bolts-$45.00 need new ones
Misc. 150.00 gasket cleaner, brake cleaner, etc
Crower Cam with springs and retainers- 400.00
Tuner got it cheap but it was 150.00
Tune priced today will be 150.00 for email tune.
The dyno for another 200.00

with the 4.2 swap you will need the bottom oil pan from a 2001 and up mustang cause of the girdle which will need to be modified or deleted.....

a 2000 and up upper intake manifold from a mustang or Windstar (this one is better)
with plenty more changes I would save up at least 700 to 800 to get it started.
But to get it right at least 1200 or more in my case others may have different say so.

---------- Post added at 08:52 PM ---------- Previous post was at 08:48 PM ----------

Another option is a Super Coupe swap with the M-90 charger which will still run around 1100 or 1200 depends on how much you get the motor for. Tuning is required though. And yes the split port does have 20 to 30 more horse power that why im doing the split port swap
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
The place I'm getting all my parts, for the 4.2 short block, 01 mustang oil pan, and clutch to be rebalanced will run me about 175 for all.
And the short block with rotating assembly has less than 100xxx miles.

Gasket sets etc. I get at really good prices because I buy them through a friends shop and he gets really nice discounts.

1slosix on here clued me into the singleport top ends making as good or better numbers than the splitports for turbo.

I considered getting a good m90 supercharger, but I'm really confused... would any m90 work? Or would it have to be from a ford motor? Like the grand prixs, monte carlos etc... would they work? M90s can be had around here for under 100 bucks with low mileage.

I guess the only upshot to living in podunk ohio is I can get parts cheap. And growing up around all the guys that run car shops in a small town definately helps.

---------- Post added at 09:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:24 PM ----------

I wanna do something that's not common.. I don't really care if its a track monster because its my daily driver, and aesthetically it will be redone over the next couple months, id just like to have something respectfully quick that interests people at car shows when they see the underhood.

---------- Post added at 09:29 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:27 PM ----------

And sniper, where are you located? For tune and dyno around me would be close to 5-600 for a day.. and none of the places near are very reputable.
 

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i am from NC near Fort Bragg you got it lucky parts here are high lol. But just priced a dyno tune today at three different shops it was no higher than 400 for three to four pulls. but the one for two hundred is a email tune plus three pulls 150 for email and 200 for pull
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
The one place around me has made a big name for themselves but everyone that I know that's had their car tuned there has said the tuning is unreliable and engines only last a few months after being tuned by them
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I think I've got a good idea of what I'm going to do for now with the budget I have, I'm thinking a 4.2 shortblock, singleport 3.8 heads, intakes, and cam. Mild port and polish on the heads with upgraded valve train. Heard I can use cobra valve springs and retainers and maybe rockers??
Some type of tuner, and a 150-200 shot of nitrous. Probably wet kit.
What ya think?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
And I have to track down a noise that's aggravating me...sometimes at idle, but when I'm driving and I shift around 2000 rpm as soon as I push the clutch in I hear a rattle like sound that sounds as if its going with the rpm of the engine, like it rattles and fades out at the same time.. kinda hard to explain. But I'm thinking its either the throwout bearing/fork, or the flywheel itself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Update after a long minute lol

After talking to some of the local old ford guys, I'm going to leave the sixxer that's in it for now, just going to do some much needed maintenence and freshen the motor up.

Scored a 8.8 rear end with rediculous gearing for 50 bucks today!! Gotta do a 5 lug conversion and swap it in, then a healthy shot of go juice and a sct tuner and I should have a pretty quick little sixxer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Id like to stay around 75-125 until its not enough power anymore. ****** the timing and little extra tuning and it should be ok up to a 200 shot, but that's notebook dyno mechanics, real world may very well be a different story.

Next parts I intend to get is a top end rebuild kit, bigger fuel pump, and figure out what's rattling around my clutch.
 

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Youll want a full rebuild with forged internals if you're wanting that large of a shot....100 is average for the bigger shots on a stock 3.8....75 if it's used a lot. Just something to remember during your rebuild
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
in that case ill stick around the 75-100 mark, I just want to do better head gaskets, and some work to the top end. A guy I met by chance is wanting to help with the "build" and this dudes a local legend apparently so I'm all game for the assistence lol

With a tune, a 75 shot, and the rear end that's going in, it'll still be fun enough til I finish a degree program and can afford another stang. Next one's going to be a cobra, so I'm willing to hold off and find the right one.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
As long as its fast enough off the line to shut my buddy up about his TA, ill be happy lol. I will probably do a bunch of suspension work over the next year or so, I've done a minimal amount of drift, and id really like to get into amateur drift.
 

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then maybe consider putting the nitrous money into that...no need for a lot of power for that
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Eh, I can get a complete zex wet kit for pretty cheap. And the suspension is good, what kinda things would you recomend for a decent starter drifter? My car already has a solid rear sway bar, and I believe aftermarket shocks, but they're just starting to get a little spongey.
 

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you'll want some stiff springs for starters...x2 balljoints, c&c plates, bumpsteer kit, a solid rear with a tall gearing would be great..flsfc, drive shaft loop to be safe, pan hard bar
 
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