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I finally got my ford racing 3.73 gears installed this last week at a reputable shop here in Las Vegas. When I dropped off the car I was talking to a tech and told him that differential needs synthetic 75w140 and a bit of friction modifier. My mom picked up the car a few days later, while I was at work. She reported no problems and I've driven it about 100 miles since with no problems. No whine, vibration, or anything else I was worried about. I looked at my receipt yesterday and I noticed they charged me for 2 quarts of synthetic 75w90 and 'additive Ford' (assuming friction modifier.

I was planning on changing the fluid after 500 or so miles anyway to clean out possible metal, or any other undesirable junk anyway, so my question is: Will it be okay to run for 400 or so more miles with the lighter weight oil? I do virtually no freeway driving, and I keep it around the 45mph speed limit. I generally don't accelerate hard. My thinking is that because the other oil is the same weight at room temperate that it won't cause any premature wear for another few hundred miles. Is the higher weight used because it helps cooling?

Is changing the fluid something I can do myself with virtually no automotive experience or a jack? I'd think it's something similar to some transmissions when you have a drain plug towards the bottom and a fill plug towards the top.

Thanks for the help.
 

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Page 314 of the owners manual

It calls for 5.0 pints (2.4L) 75/140 SAE Synthetic Rear Axle Lubricant.

Ford part number is :::XY-75W140-QL / WSP-M2C192-A

I personaly would just go to my dealer and get it changed. The dealer can advise if it needs the additive or not. If so they can put it in.

Ronnie
 

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I used m1 75 140 full synth and a bottle of ford friction modifier when I went to 430s in my last car. Always add friction modifier. It wont hurt and is cheap. I think it was like 5 bucks.
 

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Drain plug is not something you generally see on sports cars. I have herd of it on off road vehicles that swap gear oil often but not street car generally. You will defiantly need a jack and stands to get under the car with room to work. If your not confident then you should take it to a shop.
 

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Its pretty easy to do. To drain it you take all the bolts that go around the diff cover off, and remove the diff cover. To fill it there is a fill plug on the front side of the diff, the only hard part is if you have only the rear your car on jack stands u you can't fill it all the way up since your car isn't level.
 

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Just take it back to the people that did the job.

Go to your Ford Dealer and buy the lub & additive and a new gasket.
Then take your car back to where they put the wrong lube in and ask them to change it to the correct stuff. I'm sure they will do it at no charge. That way it will be done and finished. Once you put the new correct lube in you really do not need to change it for at least 50,000 to 60,000 miles or more. (Unless you run through a lot of water over your axle):D

OR just let the Ford dealer do it.

Ronnie
 

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It calls for 5.0 pints (2.4L) 75/140 SAE Synthetic Rear Axle Lubricant.

Ford part number is :::XY-75W140-QL / WSP-M2C192-A

I personaly would just go to my dealer and get it changed. The dealer can advise if it needs the additive or not. If so they can put it in.

Ronnie
And my dealer does it as cheap as anyone else around here 119.00
 

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If you are going to do gears and or a fluid change I would just spring for the FRPP or other brand name rear end girdle cover. It holds more fluid to keep things clean and cool, strengthens the rear end and makes fluid changes much easier as it has a drain bolt. Well worth the money if you plan on doing changes at intervals or are going to be beating the snot out of it at the track.

---------- Post added at 10:23 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:19 AM ----------

IMAG1589-1.jpg photo by firebirdv | Photobucket

Here is a pic of my last build. The rear had bracing all over the place so getting to the fluid would have been a huge pain in the ass without the drain bolt as I would have had to remove stuff to just get to the cover itself.

The cover I had was T&A and they build them for FRPP.
 

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I'd make the shop that did the work correct it. You paid for "correct" fluid, and they made the mistake. Make them correct it.

Gotta read the owners manual and have it handy when filling out the work order at a non-Ford service center. It's also critical that the bead of silicone sets up, and that the cover is installed and the fluid is not filled for one hour (according the the 2011 Ford service manual) to allow the seal to cure and prevent oil leaks. Many shops will skip this step, as they are in a hurry to get new work into the shop.

Owners manual calls for 5.25 pints of 75-140 synthetic, plus the additive (approx 4.5 oz).

If you use a private shop, make sure you give them the Ford requirements and part numbers, Even though they should know. Take it back.
 

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oh ya i would tell the shop to do it for sure. they have to remove the cover etc. anyway so my thought was to get the girdle cover and replace it with that so the next time it is easy for you.
 
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