Mustang Evolution Forum banner

41 - 60 of 84 Posts

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,757 Posts
For this old guy a total restoration has come and past...many decades ago. It just makes my blood pressure go up looking at the pictures.
Nothing fits better than OEM sheetmetal although I'm sure repop has gotten better over the decades.
The 66 GT took 2-1/2 years and was my third although the real "Protect-O-Plate" 68 Z28 took me over 5 years.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #44
Loving the camaro , and did you have the front frame rails replaced

Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Mustang Evolution mobile app
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,757 Posts
The Camaro was a low mile Oregon car and had no rust at all...of course this was almost 38 years ago...after restoration back to mostly stock with matching numbers the car was sold and is now in Sweden.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #46
Wow didn't realize people came here to find cars

Sent from my SM-N920V using Mustang Evolution mobile app
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,757 Posts
Thousands of American cars, boats, and trucks are sold overseas and have been for the last few decades.
My Camaro is in Sweden, Model A Highboy Hot Rod is in Finland, my 70 drag only Maverick is in New Zealand and countless engine parts have been shipped to the UK, Germany and beyond. When I took my Model A to Los Angeles to be put into a container I say hundreds of muscle cars, hot rods, exotic and racing cars waiting to be shipped to Europe...very big business!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #49
So the shop that was going to do the rear frame rails and torque boxes cannot get to them until next spring so I'm going to have to attempt it myself any advice on keeping back end straight or just remove every panel and also I cannot find the specs

Sent from my SM-N920V using Mustang Evolution mobile app
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,757 Posts
Make very, very sure as you pull this car apart that there are no signs of damage from a previous accident, frame rails that have buckles, front bumper attachments that look straight, core support that has no buckles or welded repairs...same goes for the frame rails and back frame support between each side rail.
If it were me would have taken the car and had the frame checked at a frame shop before I started...you can check specs although that won't tell you if the body/frame has been twisted...since you are going to replace frame rails you want to make sure everything is within 1/8" or better. How do the quarters look...along with the wheel houses...is there any bondo or patch panels from the back of the door to the trunk...you really need to make sure before you start cutting the frame apart...if you have to replace quarters now would be the time before you start with the frame rails....IMHO
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #53
The problem is the whole floor needs replaced so what do I weld to

Sent from my SM-N920V using Mustang Evolution mobile app
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,757 Posts
I'd like to see more pictures although the pictures you posted the floor seems to rusted in various areas.
You are going to remove the seat risers right? It would be interesting to see what the floor looks like under them.
I assume you bought a spot weld removal drill bit????? If not, you will at least 2 or 3 of these.
If you are going to remove the complete floor you will need to brace both door openings...front to rear...and brace the inside from the firewall in a T configuration with the long part of the tee at the firewall and the two legs to each quarter just behind the door. If you go further you will also need some bracing at the rear. Be careful as the sheet metal is thin and I would put "pads" where you attach the braces to the body structure. This is a little overkill although I've always wanted to be safe than sorry...IMHO
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #55
The whole back end is rusted beyond fixing and also where can I find the measurements for the the width between the frame rails the height from the ground and so forth

Sent from my SM-N920R4 using Mustang Evolution mobile app
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,757 Posts
Ok, I'm glad it's you and not me.
The drawing I posted has all of dimensions you will need. The only width dimension is at the very rear...whenever you are making frame measurements you always measure on a diagonal, never side to side.
As for chassis height, there really isn't one...every Mustang has a different ride height...make sure the floor you are putting it on is level and the frame is level...then start making measurements.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,757 Posts
If you weren't 1700 miles away it would be an interesting project...providing I had a blank checkbook and 12 months.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
70 Posts
Discussion Starter #59
Right, I used to have a shop and I need to find another

Sent from my SM-N920V using Mustang Evolution mobile app
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,757 Posts
Good shops are out there, you just have to find them.
I went in partners with one of the best painters in the Pacific Northwest almost 30 years ago...unfortunately it didn't work out!
After restoring a dozen cars during my lifetime I would say that within 200 hours we could have your car totally restored...not including parts....I'm talking total rotisserie restoration....at $100 per hour that's a cool $20k...parts...maybe $15k.
For $35k I could buy a very nice 65/66 Mustang!?
To totally strip an early Mustang to bare metal and either rework or replace sheet metal...using little to no filler you are talking $10k...no, I don't do body work although I love to paint.
 
41 - 60 of 84 Posts
Top