[Faststallion98]

Unfortunately I was an idiot and forgot what my readings were before and left my trunk open with the light on and killed the battery

 

[cliffyk]

Unfortunately I was an idiot and forgot what my readings were before and left my trunk open with the light on and killed the battery

I am not asking that, what is the battery voltage now while you try to crank the engine--does it change at all when you do so? If not then you have a wiring, perhaps an ignition switch or relay, problem. If it drops below 10.5V then the battery has a weak/dying cell. Weak cells can provide their 2.1V when the battery is not or lightly loaded; but under higher loads (like the starter relay and solenoid) they cannot.

In a situation like yours measuring the battery voltage while attempting to crank the engine is pretty close to test #1...

 

[Faststallion98]

When I get the battery charged ill do it again to see what it is

 

[Faststallion98]

Installed a new battery cause the old one was no good and now all I get is clicking

 

[Ubnbit]

I know this might be lame and no help at all but did they check that starter before you put it in? I bought a new one for another car and it was bad new. I bought another one and made them check it while I was there.

 

[Faststallion98]

I jumped the terminals last night to make sure it had power to it and it worked it was just very weak due to the bad battery

 

[Tyoung68]

Only thing i can think of is get a test light have some one try to start the car and keep probing till you get power. And then start from there and see what isn't letting the power through

 

[Ubnbit]

Ok. Good deal. So how about unbolting it and pulling it away from the car, leaving it wired and gettin somebody to bump the key. See if it works from the key.

---------- Post added at 02:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:07 PM ----------

Yeah, I agree. Nothing looks mangled on the flywheel or anything? Sorry brother, I'm grabbin for straws. Electrical stinks!

---------- Post added at 02:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:10 PM ----------

Kinda surprises me it's not throwing any codes.

 

[Faststallion98]

Ok. Good deal. So how about unbolting it and pulling it away from the car, leaving it wired and gettin somebody to bump the key. See if it works from the key.

---------- Post added at 02:10 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:07 PM ----------

Yeah, I agree. Nothing looks mangled on the flywheel or anything? Sorry brother, I'm grabbin for straws. Electrical stinks!

---------- Post added at 02:14 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:10 PM ----------

Kinda surprises me it's not throwing any codes.

I wouldn't no if it is throwin any codes I don't have a scanner and as far as buyin anything all my funds are officially exhausted so now I have to work with wat I have this will definitely be the last newer car I own 1972 and older from here on out

 

[Ubnbit]

I got your back. Surly somebody here or on the web has had the same trouble.

 

[Faststallion98]

I hope someone has had the same problem and can point me in the right direction cause I need this car to run tonite

 

[cliffyk]

I hope someone has had the same problem and can point me in the right direction cause I need this car to run tonite

At the risk of sounding like a broken record, have you checked the battery voltage while cranking the engine? I realize it is a new battery, but that does not mean it is a fully charged good battery.

Checking the voltage at the battery terminals while cranking will tell a story...

 

[Faststallion98]

I did check it while cranking it was t 12.62

 

[OneSlow96]

Look under the dash for a black box that would be your aftermarket alarm just unplug the white wire going to the black box

---------- Post added at 03:50 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:48 PM ----------

Omg i had this problem with my 96 sorry to say after reading thru but its the computer buddy.

 

[Faststallion98]

I'm not going to jump to conclusions just yet I have my electrical guru buddy headin over later to take a look

 

[cliffyk]

I did check it while cranking it was t 12.62

Then the starter solenoid is not getting power, it alone draws enough current that the battery voltage should drop below the full charge no load level. The ignition switch, the starter relay (in the battery junction box), or wiring is bad...

Another possibility is as suggested earlier, a bad ground. The main ground to the block connects just aft of the oil filter adapter, and has been known to corrode and/or come loose--check it...

 

[Faststallion98]

I will definitely look into the main ground and the 12 that I stated was the crank volts is below the full charge no load of the battery

 

[cliffyk]

I will definitely look into the main ground and the 12 that I stated was the crank volts is below the full charge no load of the battery

You said 12.62, which is precisely the stabilized voltage of a fully charged lead-acid battery; 2.1 V * 6 cells = 12.6 V...

 

[Faststallion98]

Well when I bought it I checked it before any load and I read 13.1

 

[cliffyk]

Well when I bought it I checked it before any load and I read 13.1

It must have been on a charger and not yet stabilized--normal voltage for a charged and stable lead-acid battery is 12.6 V...