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Discussion Starter #1
So my 2011 5.0 track pack has been in perfect health up until a few days ago. I currently have a steeda CAI, a Bama 93R tune, and i just put a throttle body spacer on. I was running fine with the throttle body spacer for almost a week without A single issue. The other day i woke up early to run some errands and noticed when i tried to give it full gas it seemed off. It felt like i wasnt really... going even though the pedal was to the floor and the car sounded like it was going pretty fast. I retuned and drove around, and it didnt happen much but then it started happening again. That night it finally threw the code P0349 "camshaft position A ckt intermittent (b2)". The next day I cleared the code and retuned, and its been about 4 days since i saw the code. I paid more attention to the car to try and focus it down, and it looks like when the car is cold I can run through the gears like nothing is wrong. I'll maybe get 1-2 run throughs of 1-4 gears without issues, and when it starts occurring I might be able to go through the gear to about 4k rpms when it revs like its going fast but its just not. The car has gone through the gears to 4th and hit 4k rpms and revved to about 4500 and then catches back up and starts moving fast again... but now it seems that it's mostly just doing it through all the gears if I get on the gas. If I go through the gears like normal, you couldn't tell anything was wrong... but as soon as I open the throttle or give it too much gas it does it through the whole rpm range...... I can't for the life of me understand why its doing this or how to fix it. Could it be the spacer? (even though the spacer has been on for longer than the problem by far). I know it isn't the tune. The night before the problem started the car was fine... Can someone please help?
Also, the code is for the driver side camshaft intake position sensor, not the exhaust.
 

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The spacer was the last thing you added / changed before the issue occurred correct? So step 1 is going back to the last working combination and go from there. Not every monitor / sensor cycles constantly, so it may have taken a bit for an issue to be registered. Removed the spacer and report back.

BTW those spacers, for the most part, are junk anyways.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The spacer was the last thing you added / changed before the issue occurred correct? So step 1 is going back to the last working combination and go from there. Not every monitor / sensor cycles constantly, so it may have taken a bit for an issue to be registered. Removed the spacer and report back.

BTW those spacers, for the most part, are junk anyways.
Yes that's the last thing I did before it acted up. I just didn't think it was the problem because of the days it was fine with it installed.. Okay, that's the next thing I was going to try, but decided to be lazy. I'll take it off when I get off work and drive it for a while.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So I took off the tbs, and I noticed that the tbs may have been amplifying the problem. The problem was still there though. I drove for a while and instead of the consistent power loss, it was definitely focused around 4000 up through 4500 rpms until I could feel the power in the engine come back. I also noticed that full throttle from 1st gear up through the gears the power never dropped (probably because when I shifted the next gear started at or after the "bad range"..) I tried 1st and 2nd all the way through and no power loss. I tried 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear starting below the bad zone and the problem occurred. Later on in the drive I tried again and it felt like the range of the power loss got bigger the more I drove. Wide opening the throttle seemed to make it sound like it's pushing a ton of power, but the rpms and the speed don't feel that way. I don't think the tbs is causing it, but I do think it caused the problem to magnify. Also, after all those hard runs STILL not getting any codes on the dash like I got the first night.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Should I have it checked out at the mechanics? I didn't think it would be the clutch though considering it was perfectly fine one day, and i drove at night as well... and the next morning i had issues. I figured that'd be an over time it gets worse kind of issue.
 

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Should I have it checked out at the mechanics? I didn't think it would be the clutch though considering it was perfectly fine one day, and i drove at night as well... and the next morning i had issues. I figured that'd be an over time it gets worse kind of issue.

Anything is possible, but the clutch is unlikely in my opinion. An easy test though, have the car at 2500-3000 rpms in 4th gear and stomp the throttle. If the car revs and doesn't move, the clutch slipped, if the engine bogs and tries to accelerate, it held.
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
So I drove it for a good while. I did as you said 4th gear 3000 rpms... WOT at about 4250 rpms it happened but it was quick but i was still accelerating because right after the power was lost it was back. I did a few runs from a roll in first and had no problems. Later on in the drive it quickly progressed into every gear, if i WOT the engine would sound higher pitched than what i'm used to hearing and it would accelerate but sluggishly and the engine would sound "ugly". When I accelerated normally through the gears it was almost perfectly normal. Not long after, the code "p0349" ( camshaft position A ckt intermittent (b2) ) came back. I cleared it on monday morning, and it has been the only code.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Anything is possible, but the clutch is unlikely in my opinion. An easy test though, have the car at 2500-3000 rpms in 4th gear and stomp the throttle. If the car revs and doesn't move, the clutch slipped, if the engine bogs and tries to accelerate, it held.
Just got done doing some things.. the battery was bad so I got a brand new battery and because the store gave me what appears to be the wrong sensors.... I returned them and just switched the drivers side sensor with the passenger side sensor. Now i'm thinking if the passenger side sensor fault pops up then the sensor is a problem. I was driving it after the battery replacement and it was still doing its usual power issue through the rpm's. What's weird is that I stopped at mcdonalds to take a leak and let it cool for a few minutes, then i drove through the drivethru to get food. When I headed home the problem was focused in the 4000 range for the first gear I WOT. THEN, when I turned to the last street I WOT from the same exact gear I had an issue with a second ago, and went all the way through to 120mph with NO loss of power... this is making me lose my mind.
 

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Ever get this figured out?
 
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