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I have a 2001 mustang gt. just the standard 4.6 liter. My issue started about a month ago. I was getting hesitation at wot so I wanded my coils and noticed 7 and 8 were sputtering. I replaced them with motor craft coils. Two days later my check engine light came on for a cylinder 5 misfire. So again I changed the coil with a motor craft. The hesitation and sputtering was still there so I decided to change all the coils with msd coils and changed all the plugs with motor craft plugs. Soon after I got a MIL for cylinder 6 misfire. I replaced the msd coil with one of the new motor craft ones I previously bought. The next day it coded again for cylinder 5. Again I changed the coil with the other motor craft one I bought. The same day it coded again for cylinder 5. I didn't know what was going on so I decided to swap the coil and plug from 5 and 6 with known good ones from cylinders 1 and 2. Again the same day it coded for cylinder 5. My next step was to check the injectors so I swapped the injector for 1 and 5. Again in the same day it coded for a cylinder 5 misfire. So I know it isn't a bad spark plug or coil. It isn't a bad injector. I have also eliminated it being the egr or the wiring harness or ecu. I also did a compression test and was getting 120psi to all cylinders. It seems to be isolated at cylinder 5 andy car hesitates and sputters and smokes and smells like raw fuel. Someone please tell me what is wrong!!!!!
 

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Maybe bad timing

---------- Post added at 09:27 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:27 PM ----------

Tarter sauce you beat me to it lol
 

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Discussion Starter #6
How do I check the timing to see if it's out? I did put the stock tune back on it. And it's getting fuel. Timing makes sense. I've also heard bad cat since all my issues ate on one bank. But it seems to be isolated on 5 now.
 

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How do I check the timing to see if it's out? I did put the stock tune back on it. And it's getting fuel. Timing makes sense. I've also heard bad cat since all my issues ate on one bank. But it seems to be isolated on 5 now.
Base timing is set by timing gears and chains when the engine is built. There is no way to check it really, as it is all controlled by the ECU.
 

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Actually, u know what... id bet there's a vacuum leak. I remember having similar issues with my truck. Certain cyclinders weren't firing on one side and ran like butt. I tore the whole side apart and everything was good, later decided to test for vacuum leaks and found two. Check especially around the intake manifold on that side.
 

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Check and see if the computer firing off number 5 coil and injector..Take one of you coils that you have left over and hook it in the connector,,use a spark tester and see if the coil is firing,,that way you know your getting the signal from the computer,,also you can use a noid light to make sure the injector is getting the signal from the injector driver,,i know you said the circuits good but ive seen a loose connection in the plug cause that..i found it by wiggleing the connector around while it was running and heard the engine pick up
 

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Is there any coolant or wetness on cylinder 5 coil? Just a thought maybe an obsolete thought but worth asking.

---------- Post added at 09:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:53 PM ----------

Did u check the gap on the 5 th cylinder spark plug? Thats a possibility as well as injector stuck open if u smell raw fuel....or a broken injector o ring
 

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1996mustang said:
Is there any coolant or wetness on cylinder 5 coil? Just a thought maybe an obsolete thought but worth asking.

---------- Post added at 09:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:53 PM ----------

Did u check the gap on the 5 th cylinder spark plug? Thats a possibility as well as injector stuck open if u smell raw fuel....or a broken injector o ring
He did switch plugs with a known good one
 

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Azure said:
Base timing is set by timing gears and chains when the engine is built. There is no way to check it really, as it is all controlled by the ECU.
Pull the timing cover. Check sprocket wear, tensioner, tensioner guides. Yes base timing can be rectified. C-heads at TDC, and Crank at TDC. Timing chains are marked, so are timing gears. Requires, removal of all pulleys, coils and coil mounts, valve covers, no need to dump any fluids. AC pump, should be unbolted, but not discharged; just hang it to the side-3bolts. All work can be done without lifting the car. I am doing it tomorrow to verify timing following head swap. you'll need a special pulley tool from autozone-rent it for free with deposit; main damper, and power steering. Get some RTV to reseal timing cover joints. You can do much more to preserve your engine while your at it. Remember, use Ford racing parts to swap critical components.

Overall, I think you need LH tensioner, and/or chain with guide on driver side (LH) if plug wires pass. Note that the only guide you need is the curved one that a actually boss tension. The straight guide is usually fine.

However, before you do any of the above check your plug wires. They are frequent culprits. If your getting zapped...kick in the gut hello from your car...

Didn't catch the mileage on car.

---------- Post added at 09:58 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:55 PM ----------

ECu/PCM, are used to control spark timing. Base timing between heads and crank have to be established first. This is absolute!!!!!!!! severe damage may occur!

---------- Post added at 09:59 PM ---------- Previous post was at 09:58 PM ----------

Mathew r Wright said:
I heard of chain tensioners wearing out and making timing off, and causing misfire...
True
 

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Yo! Did this prob ever get fixed? I'd like to know. Now that I have late model heads, I have inherited late model problems, no doubt.

---------- Post added at 06:57 PM ---------- Previous post was at 06:54 PM ----------

More: found out misfires can be caused by poor functioning injectors too. If it still applies.
 
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