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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

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Corey can till you more about this. Honestly I would go with someone like rpm over supersix. They seem to me to be doing a one size fits all with their cams and their porting hasnt really changed over the years that I have seen. rpm stays on top of their porting and is always looking for improvement. I would be willing to be that the Max Effort will out flow anything super six puts up against it.
 

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i believe that the rpm max effort system is the best bang for your buck. it is a bit cheaper that super six and probabaly a little better. the cams are pretty much the same but rpm will do a custom grind for no cost. the heads at rpm are about the same as supersix but i'm partial to rpm so i would just go with them. rpm intakes are by far the best cause they do the best porting by removing the IRMC in the 01 and up intakes and i think they will even cut and weld the upper intake as well. they will give you a perfect opening for a 70mm tb and give you a 70 mm tb for less money that supersix will. its a quality tb too. all in all go with the rpm, it won't disapoint you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I've asked both of them what they will charge for shipping and RPM, ships faster and cheaper, so I'm leaning that way.

And I got to find a place over here to tune my car.
BTW, will RPM make a chip for me or do I got to cusom one and go from there?
 

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OK here is the REAL DEAL coming from someone who has RPM stuff!!!

RPM and SSM are good companies with well thought out products and plenty of satisitied customers. I have been sometimes put off by Tom Y (Owner of SSM) and his attitude. He is extremely proud of his product but he does so calling other competing products lesser quality. I honestly think RPM, SSM and Morana are just about equal in the V6 community as far as their products go. Mostly different in personality. There are some differences in prices with RPM being, I believe, the best all around value and performance.

Mikael at RPM is a straight forward guy that is a Mustang owner himself, He listens to what you want and will not guide you down a direction you will otherwise wish you had not. Mikael stands 100% behind his product and has been doing this for a few years and is not going anywhere. Also if you have problem he will work with you to resolve them. The machine work on the heads and intake is excellent. His products are extraordinary. I am confident if you buy from Mikael you will be happy. He is also on my BEST OF THE BEST list companies to do business with and I do not give that tribute out lightly.

My suggestion to you is Email Mikael and tell him what you want. Ask him for his phone number and have a real live person to talk to. Just remember Mikael and all these engine mod companies can get very busy so when you contact them be patient

Corey
 

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its a very very nice increase in hp... with H/c/i on a pre 99 you wind up with the same end results or almost as if you had a 99+ and slap h/c/i..... its a major improvment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
SSM say they got a 100hp gain on their best "kit" (I know much of it is bs, but bs sales hehe), just wondering what hp raiting RPM "claim".


But anyways, how hard is it to install yourself? I know the intake and heads are pretty straight forward, but what about the cam?
 

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if you dont have experience with push rod motors dont attempt it... its not really a hard swap actually its all the little things that jump in like where connectiosn went etc etc.... it can cost a pretty penny at a shop.... if you are good as far as mechanic work goes and you read up on it you can do it... but a screw up = new motor needed....

if you do attempt it just take alot of time looking over every inch of the install and mark your removed connections etc

you should see 60-80rwhp/tq gains ~ dependign on how aggressive you go, and now is the time to decide if you are staying n/a or going blown. I would buy another motor if I was you, its far easier to build sitting on an engine stand.... and not really much more expensive adn your down time is limited due to you dont have to find out you forgot something and have to wait a week on mr ups...

and youcould spend a little more on a 4.2 bottom end and pick up a good bit more power :) if you are gonna drop 1500-2k in it just spend a little more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
So I should just build a new one from scratch? Hmm, why not, guess I will be the only 4.2L Mustang in Norway :cool:

Then my dads and cousins engine will only be .1L bigger engine than me, but mine will be way more powerfull theirs. :D


Guess I need to find out how much the block and 4.2L crak, plus pistions and rods will cost me and all the other small stuff I will need.
 

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talk to 97stallion he sells 4.2 parts which is where i am getting my 4.2 parts from
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
timpryor said:
talk to 97stallion he sells 4.2 parts which is where i am getting my 4.2 parts from
That is where I'm thinking of getting it, but I want to buy the block with the internals installed if I can.

Guess I better drop him a line or two, when I get money for it.
 

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Another thing, compare RPM's best NA 3.8 to SSM's and
best NA 4.2's to each other.

Make sure you compare apples to apples, except in their best 4.2's cuz
Mik's best effort 4.2 is a stock rebuilt truck bottom end versus SSM's
high dollar 4.3 and the figures were like this:

1. 265 RWHP/280 RWTQ
2. 259 RWHP/260 RWTQ

#1 is the low-dollar rebuild :D

#1 has a much smaller cam, my second gen SPI grind with altered LCA.
(actually a 3.8 grind)

#2 has a cam that is 19* larger in intake duration but makes less HP and TQ.
But I suspect with that much duration it was setup up for a future SSX intake.
Or rather it should be, knowing what I do about runner lengths and cam tuning.

But in most cases, the stock intakes are the best suited for the street.

Get your porting from RPM and a cam from RDM, I spec those for RDM.
 
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