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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,
Not sure where this one goes, so I picked suspension/drivetrain.

This morning I woke up and found that I had a flat tire on the rear driver side. The tires were getting old, so maybe it was a sign to get new tires, which I did. On the way over to the tire shop, riding on the donut, I felt a pulsing/rattle from the brake&clutch pedals as I slowed down (it only got noticeable are 15 mph). I figured it had something to do with the donut. Sadly, even with the new tires, I get the same pulse - it's never at high speeds though. They checked the alignment at the shop when they put on the new tires - everything checked out. I adjusted the clutch, which took care of the rattling sound from that pedal - but the brake still is strange.

Not sure where to go on this one - new front rotors/pads about 4000 miles ago. Rear brakes are still visibly ok (but I'm not a brake specialist).

Any thoughts? Sorry for the long post.
 

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It sounds almost like there may be air in the brake lines??? Do you know if the brakes where bleed after replacing them?
 

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the brakes could need bleeding, but you surly would have noticed this before 4k miles, its worth a shot though.

If your rotors were messed up you would feel it when braking but the steering wheel would probably shake also.
 

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or you got a troll in your car and he/she (but really girl trolls dont get in cars they are more like moped and bird nest type trolls) likes to mess with your brake petal, its a 50/50 chance thing, either what i said or corey just check for both. OH, If you do find a troll dont let him bit you, cuz it will hurt.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Apparently, it was the troll. I was driving to work today and it seems like the car healed itself. Nice! The troll was just waiting for the rain to pass over I guess.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The rattle is back. I took it to the dealer to see if it was either the TOB or the clutch itself - neither was the case (AND they didn't charge me for looking at it:)). Good news that I don't need a new clutch, bad news that they didn't see what was wrong.
I find that after shifting, lifting up lightly on the clutch pedal eliminates the rattle too (along with holding it down lightly). I think that the quadrant may not be right, so I got a new UPR clutch cable/quadrant/adjustment nut. If it turns out not to be the problem, at least I have a new UPR clutch cable/quadrant/adjustment nut.
Is there a nice step-by-step installation out there for replacing the stock stuff with adjustable aftermarket (I'm thinking that the instructions would be the same for UPR/Steeda/whoever else). Help is always appreciated! Thanks!
 

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njstang97 said:
The rattle is back. I took it to the dealer to see if it was either the TOB or the clutch itself - neither was the case (AND they didn't charge me for looking at it:)). Good news that I don't need a new clutch, bad news that they didn't see what was wrong.
I find that after shifting, lifting up lightly on the clutch pedal eliminates the rattle too (along with holding it down lightly). I think that the quadrant may not be right, so I got a new UPR clutch cable/quadrant/adjustment nut. If it turns out not to be the problem, at least I have a new UPR clutch cable/quadrant/adjustment nut.
Is there a nice step-by-step installation out there for replacing the stock stuff with adjustable aftermarket (I'm thinking that the instructions would be the same for UPR/Steeda/whoever else). Help is always appreciated! Thanks!
the installation is very straight forward, if the upr looks just like the steeda then i would say to use the same instructions.
 

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if lifting up on the clutch petal or putting a little pressure on the clutch petal makes the noise go away then it IS the throw out bearing, if you act fast enough and get a quadrent and firewall adjuster you can take the slack out of it and perhaps save you the price of a new throw out bearing..... thats the problem for sure though.
 

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SpectorV said:
if lifting up on the clutch petal or putting a little pressure on the clutch petal makes the noise go away then it IS the throw out bearing, if you act fast enough and get a quadrent and firewall adjuster you can take the slack out of it and perhaps save you the price of a new throw out bearing..... thats the problem for sure though.
agreed.:good:
 

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I am the throw out bearing king, I went though 4 underwarranty.... ford can kiss my white ASS! definatly get a quadrent and adjuster if they are BSing you about the throw out, if you can get it to tick for them they cant deny its not it.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just as closure - the quadrant/cable/firewall adjuster solved the problem - no more pulsing, no more noises.:good:
 
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