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I've seen a few times on this site already people paying shops to do this simple install. I know for those who have never turned a wrench the idea can sound daunting. However it is much easier then you may think, plus it'll save you cash in the long run to work on the car yourself (and you get to learn something new)

So today i decided to swap my rear pads with some Hawk Performance Pads. I wanted to take pics beginning to end however my phone died half way through so i'll just type it out the best i can once we get to the reinstall point.

Things you'll need...

-12mm wrench
-jack & stands (blocks as well for the front tires)
-4 way or some other wrench to remove your lug nuts
-hammer or pry bar
-brake pads
-brake lube & antisieze
-Caliper Piston Tool (you can buy one for $10 which i have used many times on a handful of cars without issue)

This was a 30 minute job because i stopped to take pictures.

now before we begin go ahead and break loose each lug nut while the tires on the ground. do it now or you'll have a headache

1. Let's start with lifting the car up. Put the jack under the rear diff and lift the car up. At this point you can now put your stands under the rear axles and keep the car from falling in case the jack fails. Block the front tires to keep from rolling (DO NOT PUT ON YOUR PARKING BRAKE).

2. Now lets finish taking the lug nuts off to remove the wheels (here's a pic of how i set up my stands)

3. Now take a 12mm wrench and take off the two caliper bolts at the top and bottom of the caliper. you may need some pb blaster, but i usually just use a hammer to break them loose if needed

4. use a hammer or pry bar to lift the caliper off of the bracket and old pads.

(at this point go ahead and look over how your pads are sitting in the brackets. you'll want the new pads sitting in the same orientation)

5. Pull the old pads out and remove the hardware from them. They will be the metal ends on each pad. you will use them on the new pads. Put them on the same way on the new pads as the old ones

6. Take the brake lube and grease the slide pins, and anywhere on the pads that makes contact with the calipers

7. Put the new pads into the brackets the same way the old ones came out (no pics of this sorry)

8. Time to press in the calipers. Now you may wonder why you can't just use a c-clamp like you can on the front brakes. That is because the rears piston needs to be turned as it's pressed in. Which is where the tool comes into play. You connect it to a ratchet like in the pic below and turn it as you press. Very simple

9. To use the caliper tool find the end that lines up to the pistons slots. Then ratchet and press. when finished compressing make sure the slots on the piston are at 12 & 6

(fully compressed)

10. Now that the caliper is finished slide it back onto the bracket and brake pads. There are springs on top of the'll see how they press up against the caliper. Start the reverse process of putting the bolts back into place to hold the caliper on (NOTE: WHEN PUTTING THE CALIPER BACK ON THE SLOT ON THE PISTON WILL SLIDE OVER A NOTCH ON THE BACK OF THE PAD WHICH IS WHY YOU LEFT THE PISTON AT 12 & 6)

11. After the caliper bolts are on good an tight. Put antisieze on all the studs and put the wheels back on. Hand tighten the lug nuts. Pull the stands out and drop the car to the ground enough to make contact (tires touching ground)

12. Now if you have a torque wrench tighten the lug nuts to 100 ft lbs (you can buy a cheap one for around $20). If you don't just tighten down till you can't tighten anymore with your 4 way or breaker bar

13. Pull the jack and take the car for a quick spin down the road to break in the pads since all pads have a coating on them when they're made. If everything feels good and no squealing pull back into your shop, and re torque the wheels. If it squeals it may mean you missed some lube spots or used cheap pads. it may go away when the top coat goes away, or it may keep squealing.


hope this helps some of you that have never tried to do this before. This write up also works for the front. The only difference is that you'd either use a spreader tool or a c-clamp to press in the piston since it doesn't need to be twisted in. It only has to be pressed in.

I also reccomend re-checking your lug nuts after 100 miles :good: believe me you don't want to see a wheel come off because your lugs backed off

171 Posts
Hate to bump an old thread but man these things are a bear. The bit I got doesnt fit the slots. I was able to mod the thing and hopefully I finish tomorrow and the font brakes as well.
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