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I have 03' automatic V6 mustang is it ok if i put 3.73 gears in it. Do i have to get traction Lok and what does traction lok do?????????????
 

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It's fine to put any gear in there. Most people would recomment 4.10's in an auto. But you can put in whatever you want. And a Traction Lock (T-lock) is simply a "locker" of sorts for the rear end. This way you can do 2 wheel burn outs instead of the one sided.
 

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i have a 3;73 with a posi carrier. the 4.10 gear will be a bit much if you do repeated highway driving. the 3;73 puts me at 2300 rpm at 60 mph with o/d on and the trans locked up. it sucks on gas but your 60 ft and 1/8 mile will be much improved. my stang is an 01.
 

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4.10's won't make that much difference in gas mileage I don't believe
 

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lowflyn said:
4.10's won't make that much difference in gas mileage I don't believe
Its not a huge difference, but its noticeable...

I have an auto too, I would put 4.10s in it if I was going to run it at the track, but not for an everyday driver... Just my opinion...

Anyway, its up to you and what you want to do, you can go with the 3.73s or 4.10s... 4.10s will give you a better launch... but you will lose topend speed and your gas mileage will be lower. 3.73 will give you a good launch too and a bit less of the lost values of the 4.10s.

You will probably want the "locker" aka posi-traction... You will also want a chip to correct your speedometer.
 

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buy an 8.8 from www.speedconcepts.net or what ever for pre 99 v6's spend a little extra get alot more... building the 7.5 can break..... ive done it not even trying... it may not it may... for 100 more bucks you can remove that from being a possibility.

8.8 with 3.73 and tlok BRAND NEW 750 bucks~ use your oem axles

7.5 build with gears/tlok = 600-700....

regardless of what you do ONLY buy new parts or you are asking for trouble.
 

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lowflyn said:
4.10's won't make that much difference in gas mileage I don't believe
My concern is running too high rpms for a long time such as on the Highway. It causes more heat when your rpms are up and heat causes wear and breakage. my approach to selecting my gear. i also spend alot of time on the highway.
 

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SpectorV said:
buy an 8.8 from www.speedconcepts.net or what ever for pre 99 v6's spend a little extra get alot more... building the 7.5 can break..... ive done it not even trying... it may not it may... for 100 more bucks you can remove that from being a possibility.

8.8 with 3.73 and tlok BRAND NEW 750 bucks~ use your oem axles

7.5 build with gears/tlok = 600-700....

regardless of what you do ONLY buy new parts or you are asking for trouble.
my 7.5 has an auburn posi carrier and richmand gears. I run 13.7 and make between 11-14 lbs of boost at red line. so far so good. You said the key thing. New Quality parts. i think if you dont break torque a car the rear end will hold up. I f you want to beat the thing every time you drive it the 8.8 is the only way to go.
 

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I installed used ford tlok and gears and broke a spider gear in half barly getting on it..... they may last perfectly fine.... but used parts in general are a bad idea, a cheap way out that will come back to bit you in the butt almost alwasys.... so do it right and buy an 8.8 or at least get new parts for a 7.5 if you dont abuse the rear end a stock 7.5 will be fine for the street 99% of the time.... if you EVER go to the track its just a risk you take for not upgradeing ot an 8.8....
 

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SpectorV said:
I installed used ford tlok and gears and broke a spider gear in half barly getting on it..... they may last perfectly fine.... but used parts in general are a bad idea, a cheap way out that will come back to bit you in the butt almost alwasys.... so do it right and buy an 8.8 or at least get new parts for a 7.5 if you dont abuse the rear end a stock 7.5 will be fine for the street 99% of the time.... if you EVER go to the track its just a risk you take for not upgradeing ot an 8.8....
I go to the track ALot and my most runs in 1 day were 21 passes at Byron Dragway. this is on a 7.5 at at track known for ripping up axels. My feeling is when you are on a slick and dead hook you can get breakage. run a drag radial or street tire so you have a little slippage to act as safty. 1n 2004 i made about 50 + runs. No doubt a 8.8 is the best. I run a 13.7 so my car isnt exactly stock. The locker is what broke your rearend where as a posi unit transfers the slippage from wheel to wheele (called limited slip diff/ or posi carrier) the 8.8 you get will have 3;55 gears at best off a corbra other wise you get an 8.8 with 3;27 gears and thats what a 99 and up 7.5 comes with so now spend money on a ring and pinoin and you spent 800 for an 8.8, 500-600- for a gear and install and the 8.8 hasent even been installed on your car yet. about 1,400.00 bucks as i see it plus are you getting a bran new rear end or is it used? to set up a rear gear takes a pro. shims and back lash are terms most guys dont understand and know about. your rear will break if set up wrong and a gear whine is possible if shimmed wrong. trust me on this. under 400 hp ring, pinoin and posi carrier should be ok. sorry you broke your rear end. It may have been set up incorrectly. If you are a mechanic I am not trying to offend you or say you cant do the job. some times it happens to the best of us.
 

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I see you say a new rear 8.8 is 800 posi set up with a 3;73. thats cheep where can you get that set up? If so go with the 8.8 like Kaper said. you cant beat that price. Sorry i didnt notice that sooner. Hey Kaper where can i get a set up 8.8 for the price of a gear and posi unit? hook me up!
 

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smokin6 said:
My concern is running too high rpms for a long time such as on the Highway. It causes more heat when your rpms are up and heat causes wear and breakage. my approach to selecting my gear. i also spend alot of time on the highway.
Ive got 4.10s and do a lot of highway driving to and from school. When im goin about 80mph im running my car at around 2900-3000 rpms in o/d. Ive got about 20k miles on with the gears and no problems yet... the extra pep from the 4.10s is SWEEET!!! :D
 

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Still scary to think I'll be cruising along at 3grand on the highways....it doesn't matter though, I'm going to love my 4:10's.....as soon as they are installed!!!
 

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Kiljosh said:
Still scary to think I'll be cruising along at 3grand on the highways....it doesn't matter though, I'm going to love my 4:10's.....as soon as they are installed!!!
Yes you will love them !!!! Everyone does
;)
 

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smokin6 said:
I see you say a new rear 8.8 is 800 posi set up with a 3;73. thats cheep where can you get that set up? If so go with the 8.8 like Kaper said. you cant beat that price. Sorry i didnt notice that sooner. Hey Kaper where can i get a set up 8.8 for the price of a gear and posi unit? hook me up!

Where did "Kaper" say that he can get an 8.8 for 800 bucks? :uhh: :rolleyes: :uhh:

But since you like to ramble on a bit, I was agreeing with buying new parts instead of used... :disgust:

Also, SpectorV posted a link: http://www.speedconcepts.net/ford_racing_drivetrain_and_gears.htm

79-98 8.8 Rear with 3.73's M-4006-B373
$120 delivery to all continental US addresses

8.8 Rear with 3.73 M-4006-B373 $725.00
 

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thanks for the link. as for rambling im sorry!!!!!!!!! I was thinking a bolt on rear end. This still needs axels and brakes. I know you can get them from the 7.5. I would rather have the bigger gt breaks on the 8.8 than the smaller ones from the 7.5. and you still have the same spline axel. the housing is bigger the internalls and brakes are the same. How does this stop axels breaking. A set of 31 spline axels and larger breaks would be the benifit in my eyes. Housings dont usually break. :rolleyes:
 
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