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Discussion Starter #1
Another question, whats the best rear main seal for a 1993 5.0l engine? I dont want any leaks. I put a ford racing one in last time and i pulled the trans recently and i see its seeping oil already! Anyone have an opinion? Thanks in advance.

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The lip of the rear seal can wear a groove on the machined surface of the crankshaft over time, and replacing the seal will help for a short time and then it will begin to leak again.
If your crank does indeed have a slight groove where the lip of the seal makes contact, the best way to repair it, that I am aware of, is to remove the crank from the engine and have a machine shop cut a series of diagonal knurls on the machined seal surface in a direction so that they are constantly trying to pull the oil back inside of the crank case as the crankshaft rotates.
A competent automotive machine shop will know exactly how to do it, and it really works well for a grooved crank.
Of course, the most convenient time to do this would be during an engine rebuild.
Other than that, I am not aware of any repair sleeves, or anything of that nature, for the rear seal, like are available to repair the harmonic balancer.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Ok thank you. About a year or two ago i had the lower end rebuilt. They were supposed to check that and repair if necessary. I had told them i had an issue with it. ??

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The lip of the rear seal can wear a groove on the machined surface of the crankshaft over time, and replacing the seal will help for a short time and then it will begin to leak again.
If your crank does indeed have a slight groove where the lip of the seal makes contact, the best way to repair it, that I am aware of, is to remove the crank from the engine and have a machine shop cut a series of diagonal knurls on the machined seal surface in a direction so that they are constantly trying to pull the oil back inside of the crank case as the crankshaft rotates.
A competent automotive machine shop will know exactly how to do it, and it really works well for a grooved crank.
Of course, the most convenient time to do this would be during an engine rebuild.
Other than that, I am not aware of any repair sleeves, or anything of that nature, for the rear seal, like are available to repair the harmonic balancer.
In most cases, the "press-fit" of the seal O.D. allows room enough to install the seal to a depth appropriate to it's lip riding next to the seal surface groove.
 

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Like the others said if it is worn and has a lip or just not sealing there is a repair sleeve sold that should buy you some time. I have used it with success a couple of time on some other cars. It is also not to expensive like 50 bucks. Also make sure that is where the leak is from.
 

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The windsor engines are notorious for rear main seal leaks. There is a reason Ford did the design they did on the 4.6L...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok. Thank you. One more thing, whats peoples opinion on a ford racing rear main seal or a fel pro teflon one? The felpro is about $30 more - why? Is it that much better?

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Get the Ford one. They'll both leak lol. If its just seeping that's normal. Any 5.0 I used to have would have a tiny wet spot of oil in the driveway if it sat a few days. If its not leaking... its empty. Just check the oil level every weekend and top off if needed.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Lmao. Ok. Thanks but leaks drive me freaking crazy and i just got new concrete in my driveway! Lol

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Put a drip pan down then. What we do for our aircraft engines when we pull a plane in the hangar lol.

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Get the Ford one. They'll both leak lol. If its just seeping that's normal. Any 5.0 I used to have would have a tiny wet spot of oil in the driveway if it sat a few days. If its not leaking... its empty. Just check the oil level every weekend and top off if needed.
Gotta disagree with you, sorry. I worked for many years in the sealing industry, and learned that for every case of inability to seal a rotating shaft assembly, there could be traced a fault causing it. Leakage is not "acceptable".
 

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Gotta disagree with you, sorry. I worked for many years in the sealing industry, and learned that for every case of inability to seal a rotating shaft assembly, there could be traced a fault causing it. Leakage is not "acceptable".
Yes but they ALL get like that after awhile, at least in my experience. Little seepage is fine, just check the level and make sure its good.

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Yes but they ALL get like that after awhile, at least in my experience. Little seepage is fine, just check the level and make sure its good.

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My boss years ago, a formidably competent M.E., (he designed and built Formula cars) headed up the Victor Oil Seal R & D Group. He knew more about oil seal technology than anyone else I recall. His pet phrase about why oil seal design to begin with is fraught with problems often, was "Rubber is Magic, and rubber oil seals are F. Magic........
 
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