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Discussion Starter #1
I have a couple of progress threads ongoing in some other forums but sharing here as well...partially to whore out my videos but also to have access to as many Mustang owners as possible who can provide suggestions or tips. I picked up a 1988 Mustang GT in late January. I've wanted a fox body for a long time. The first Mustang I ever rode in was a fox body. The first Mustang I ever drove was a fox body. I’ve been a huge fan of these cars since I was a teenager and always wanted to own one. I also wanted a project car that I could tinker with and build up and mod and learn on. I've been making time for that experience whenever I have had free weekends over the past two months. I've been partially documenting my progress through videos on my YouTube channel and I am always open to suggestions either through these types of threads or through comments on the videos.

Here's the car..
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Obviously it's quite a bit of a different driving experience than my 2014 GT but the times I've driven it, it's been a blast. For now, I'm trying to focus on getting some of the obvious problems fixed and I'd like it to eventually be sort of a resto-mod cruiser/occasional track day car. Anyways, here's a link to my YouTube channel with the small progress I've made so far. Cheers.


 

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Discussion Starter #2
A few recent updates....I made some progress on getting the horn fixed, identified a few other problems that need to be addressed.

Also fixed the intake box seal (and added a K&N filter, serious powah).

I picked up some weatherstripping from a hardware store close by but I didn't feel confident it could be manipulated to make the right shape without cutting it and gluing it together a bunch so I just ended up returning it and ordering the replacement seal from LMR. It took me probably close to half an hour to clean off the old stuff but I got it done eventually and got the new seal on the air box.

Old seal
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New seal, pretty happy with fit and quality
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I made a short video of the air box fix

Also ordered a few random small hardware pieces...the hardware for the fender splash shield, so it’s easier to put back in when I get it all cleaned up, also the battery tray hardware kit, and the hood rubber bumper kit.

I’ve got some other stuff on my list but trying not to be irresponsible with money given the current situation...and also need to make sure I’m not forgetting the importance of fixing the rust and leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Made some progress on some small things on Friday and Saturday...including adding some more sticker-based horsepower :p, updated the airbox hardware, added new inner seat-belt sleeves, and installed hood rubber bumpers. Little things but I still count them as progress.

 

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Discussion Starter #4
Latest on the fox body - battery (brand new) has died on me a couple of times. Now completely dead. Ordered a trickle charger and am now patiently waiting for it to arrive....probably won't be here until middle of next week. I've also ordered a heat gun so I can replace the center molding stripe.
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Got a few things in the mail this week. Got the plastic clips for the fuel filter and some sway bar end links (I've had some noises at low speed/tight turns).
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In the meanwhile, I pulled out the battery and I'm taking the drill/wire brush to the rust on the frame. Also have a POR-15 kit on the way.
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Discussion Starter #5
Finally managed to get rid of the old yellow stickers on the inside of the quarter windows.....took a long time though.

Before:
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After:
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Really looking forward to getting the red body molding strip updated and touching up the paint in some spots, including the taillights:

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New video is up with some of the small progress:

 

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Discussion Starter #6
Interesting update on the Fox. I had a person comment on YouTube that I should check the lights on the vanity mirrors to see if they are draining the battery. Battery was out of the car, attached to trickle charger that just arrived so I couldn't see if the lights were functioning. I had taken a picture a while back though and noticed one of the vanity mirror lights was still on even though there was electrical tape across the little button. So I pulled the sun visors out (they need to be repaired or replace anyways) and disconnected the vanity mirror lights. That update can be partially seen in my newest video (just skip to the 9:00 minute mark):


So after this video...I hooked the battery back up to the trickle charger and let it charge over night. Yesterday, I threw the battery back in and the Fox started right up. I ran voltage test on the battery and it appeared normal. Even took the Fox for a little spin around the block.

This morning I checked the voltage again and it appears the battery is still holding a charge. I have some work to do but will try to start it again around lunch time and confirm that it's still holding enough juice to start the car.

Also, I ordered a PA Performance Premium Battery Cable kit that is supposed to be arriving today, so I'll be getting that installed as soon as possible.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Got the Fox to crank yesterday and the battery seems to be doing find holding a charge since being on the trickle charger over night and with the sun visors/vanity mirror lights removed.


Also, my PA Performance battery cable kit did arrive yesterday. Good stuff. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Last night I replaced the old battery cables, which were in even worse condition than I thought, with the PA Performance kit. I couldn't figure out the alternator cable yet because I couldn't see where it was routed exactly...but I will try to get that installed sometime in the next few days.

Old:
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New:
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Discussion Starter #9
Got a new video up with the fuel filter replacement, arrival of some more parts, and installing/testing out the Steeda Tri-Ax Shifter Handle (just the handle, not the actual replacement shifter):


Plans for this week include tracing the alternator cable to see if I can figure out if there's already a mega fuse or something similar somewhere hidden in there. Also going to remove the air intake silencer since I'm probably going to have to remove the air box anyways while I'm tracing the alternator cable. Also got some additional wire brushes for the drill so I want to pull the battery and tray again and get back to working on the rust.

Also thinking about maybe draining and fully replacing the power steering fluid or just replacing the power steering pump since I have an extra one that came in the box of parts that came with the car. The loud whining noise has become worse than the Flowmaster drone the last few times I've driven the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I thought I had posted a more recent update but I guess it didn't go through...

Heat gun finally arrived so the weekend after last, I made a little bit of progress on removing the body molding stripe.

On the alternator power cable situation, I finally just sucked it up and ordered the SR performance cable which already has the 200 amp in-line fuse. I figured between everything else I'd need to order to do it myself, I'd only be saving 15 bucks and at least with this kit I have everything already put together. I made a video documenting some progress on those issues as well:


Then...from this past weekend:

Following up on the alternator cable issue - I wasn't able to re-use the ring terminal from the green wire and all the ones I have (that came with my cheap, crappy wire stripper) are too small. So I am waiting on some of those to arrive in the mail. I also ordered some more wire loom tubing, wiring harness clips, cloth wiring tape, and electrical tape.

In the meanwhile, I managed to make a little bit of progress using the POR 15 on the area underneath the battery tray (wheel well side). Unfortunately, I didn't think ahead and planned poorly with brush usage, so I have to wait until I get some more brushes before I can get to the engine bay side. I have some cheap brushes ordered for curbside pick up so fingers crossed that those are actually in stock). I managed to get two coats of the POR 15 on with the two brushes I had available.
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Once I get the brushes, I should be able to get some more rust work done and then eventually get the alternator cable situation squared away. Oh, in other exciting news, got a new t-shirt (and HP sticker) via Blipshift that I think some folks will appreciate.
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Anyways, here's my latest video documenting recent progress:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I made some progress on applying the POR-15 kit on the frame underneath the battery tray. I will likely need some more of the POR-15 to get the shock tower done. On the shock tower though, I'm wondering if it would make sense to remove the master cylinder (and how difficult that is) in order to apply the POR-15 better. It's not the easiest space to get into.
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Back to the horn issue...I was finally able to get the screw out of the horn bracket, thanks to the torch idea. I found a couple of random screws that actually fit in the holes on the bracket (looks like they are from IKEA) but they fit in the bracket pretty tightly and they are too narrow for any of the holes on the frame. For now, I used some washers and attached both horns to the same hole but with that placement, I can't get the fender protector back in and I'm also wondering if the second horn is too close to where the tire will turn in. I will carefully test it out once I get the alternator and battery hooked back in. I am thinking I might need to just have someone weld the bracket back in eventually.
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Anyways, here's the latest video documenting these efforts.

I finally got some electrical tape and ring terminals, at least one of which will hopefully work. Planning to try and get the alternator and battery squared away and put back in this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So on another forum, someone pointed out that my brake lines look like they might be copper. My car has a rear disc brake conversion but it looks like whoever did it kept the factory master cylinder and made custom lines coming from that MC.
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A few folks have chimed in that copper lines are not good and that I should try to address this. Initially I was looking at purchasing the 1993 Cobra Master Cylinder, which appears to be somewhat of an upgrade, and can fit on 87-93 GT Mustangs without major modifications. The problem I'm anticipating though, is the Maximum Motorsports master cylinder installation kit doesn't appear to include the front port brake line, which I obviously need to replace too. I'm not seeing any front port lines available on MM or LMR.

I also looked at the 94-95 Cobra MC on MM and it looks like their installation kit does include a complete line kit. Anyone have thoughts on the 94-95 Cobra MC for a mostly stock 1988 GT?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Happy to report that I finally got the alternator power cable finished. I ended up running the power cable in one loom and the rest of the wires in a separate loom. It took a while but I got it looking how I wanted it, for the most part. I might need to redo the tape around some of the clips but for now, I'm pretty happy. Trying to get both looms to sit well and fit underneath the battery tray took the most time.
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Got a new video up documenting this progress and talking about a few other things:


I went ahead and ordered the 93 Cobra MC and installation kit. I'll try and figure out a solution for the front port line when the time comes.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Foster puppy madness has occupied most of our time at the house the past few weeks. I found some time to make a new video but not a ton of progress on the car. The foster puppy goon squad should be gone this weekend so I'm hoping to start working on the master cylinder/brake line project soon. I believe I have everything I need for that but I do still need to pick up another can of POR-15 to use on the shock tower so I can do both of those at the same time.




I also ordered the lower door hinge tension spring so I can finally fix the driver side door. Also managed to make some progress on getting the residue from the body molding stripe cleaned off (documented in the video a little bit as well).



A few more pics of the foster puppy goon squad.
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Still haven't made a ton of progress recently. In addition to the puppies, I've had a few things come up in the house that we need to work on sooner than later. I am still waiting on the shocks I ordered a few weeks ago. I did install new header panel support brackets...but I should probably take some time to clean up the screws. Still looks better than the rusty ones that I had on there.
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Also, I ordered a lower door hinge tension spring, since my driver side door won't stay open. I noticed today that the bag is marked a little bit differently. It says 82-83 door check tension arms...the parts in the bag look the same as what is advertised on LMR though, so I'm hoping it's still the right piece, just tagged or bagged incorrectly.
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I managed to make some time to clean a bit more of the space on one side of the garage. This area was pretty crowded and a pain to walk through until now. We recently ordered some new shelves to help better organize the garage and maximize space. It's the little things that help sometimes...
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Made a new video documenting some recent things:
 

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Finally got the driver side door able to stay open, by replacing the lower door hinge tension spring.

The installation video from LMR definitely made this seem like an easier install than it actually is...at least for me, lol.

 

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Discussion Starter #17
Multiple failures/delays from the latest fox body efforts....


Hoping the ratcheting wrenches I ordered (should be here tomorrow) will help with the brake MC removal. Also planning to do more trouble shooting on the temp gauge issue based on some guidance from folks on another forum.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So it turned out that everything wasn't a failure from my last weekend of work on the Fox Body. A couple of days ago I started the car again, just for the hell of it, and let it run for five minutes or so, then gave it a little bit of gas. The temp gauge slowly started to move up so it appears that the sending unit might have fixed the problem. I guess I just needed to let it run longer.
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In the meanwhile, I had no luck in trying to remove the nut from the fender side of the brake MC so I've now removed the driver seat and am trying to take the brake booster out. Lovely experience so far, lol.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I gave up on the outer nut/bolt and ended up getting the brake booster out. It was a huge pain. Getting the top two nuts required some seriously creative thinking, lol.

I managed to finally get the POR-15 kit applied to the firewall areas where the hood hinge cups go. I also applied it to the shock tower behind the factory proportioning valve.
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The brake booster has seen better days. Per the advice of someone on another forum, I went ahead and ordered a reman BB from Auto Zone, which should be here sometime next week. Fingers crossed.
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I documented these efforts of course. Latest video is up on my channel.

 

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Part 2 of my brake master cylinder saga is up on my YouTube channel:

After making the video, I managed to replace the front left brake line with the part that came in the MM kit I got a while back:
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I got it pretty secure on the brake/wheel side and it seems there's enough flexibility that I should be able to get it lined up with the new MC when I install it. I went ahead and ordered the proportioning valve eliminator kit from LMR. Probably won't be here until the weekend but I'm hoping I can make everything fit/work between that and the new front left brake line. Fingers crossed.

The molding adhesive eraser tool arrived this weekend. I definitely should have picked this thing up sooner.
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I used it to remove some more of the adhesive from the body molding stripe area. I had largely ignored the rear bumper, which I assume will eventually need to be replaced but since I don't know if that will happen any time soon, I do at least want to clean it up and do the new red stripe soon, all around the car.

Before:
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After (like 2-3 minutes):
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My gaskets also arrived (intake manifold, EGR spacer to intake) and I already have the valve cover gaskets but I think I'd like to get the brakes done and drive the car for at least a few days before tackling the gaskets and then working on the rest of the oil leaks.
 
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