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Discussion Starter #21
Yea that would be a smart thing to do.

But definitely get a tune! When you can of course. Made a night and day difference for me and I have the horrible 2.73's....

By the way - I absolutely love your taste when it comes to the modifications that you have done to your sixxer. Very sexy!

Thank you man, lot of work into it. I have the 2.73s also. He said not to worry too much but that if it happens very often that he would check the throttle body again or just reset the idle strategy on the computer


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Discussion Starter #22
Yea that would be a smart thing to do.

But definitely get a tune! When you can of course. Made a night and day difference for me and I have the horrible 2.73's....

By the way - I absolutely love your taste when it comes to the modifications that you have done to your sixxer. Very sexy!

Thank you man, lot of work into it. I have the 2.73s also. He said not to worry too much but that if it happens very often that he would check the throttle body again or just reset the idle strategy on the computer


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Car is an automatic. It's when I shift from drive to reverse or vice versa. Also when I put the car in park at time it'll drop


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i have theories at this point, but nothing more unfortunately. My thought is its the torque converter loading and unloading as you're changing gears, but not moving :shrug:

I have a manual transmission and mine does this all the time. Especially if I am "spirited" driving. I have done the same thing as Mugeismo as far parts being replaced and maintenance, etc. Also how the car acts when in idle from a cold start and etc.

I actually made a thread about my car misfiring all the time because of cylinder one. I replaced the plugs and all seems to be well now. Maybe you need to look at your plugs or the coil packs themselves?

Hey Volt,

I believe it is your wife who has the V6 model right? Do you all have the SCT X4 tuner as well? Is there a way for me to see if all cylinders are running correctly?
Yes, my wife has a '14 tuned by MPT. I know the tuners have the ability to adjust spark and fuel on a per-cylinder basis. As far as i know however, we are only able to log on a "general," or "overall" basis. Maybe something to look into.

Occasionally while sitting at a light idling it'll drop for 2-3 seconds. Primarily when I get home from my commute and put it in to park, I'll give it a minute to cool down and itll drop 2-3 seconds. That's the primary times I see it.

My first shift of the day from R to D usually results in the car bucking and a slight RPM jump.
Idle RPMS changing sounds like the AC compressor kicking on and off? The car will raise idle to compensate from the extra load from the compressor.

Yea I just sent him a message on the subject. It used to happen when I would put gas and he replaced some seal in the gas tank or something and it never happened again


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My wife's car does this as well, as did my dad's '13 explorer. The Explorer actually threw a CEL for an evap solenoid (same one the mustangs use) that's apparently a pretty common failure part. Replaced it on the Explorer for ~$30, but havent gotten around to fixing the mustang yet. I dont want to be the one to tell people to spend money and then be wrong, but check out troubleshooting the purge valve / evap solenoid and see what that looks like. It's super easy to do, literally requires no tools to diagnose.

Hmm really? My does it also after getting a fresh tank of gas.

We've discussed that before on this forum and it always came down to either the tune, the gas used, the air to fuel mixture doing its thing...so it could be a seal after all?
See above. If i remember correctly, you should be able to unplug the line from the solenoid on the intake manifold (looks like a big T with 2 x 10mm bolts holding it on) and not feel it sucking on your finger. If you feel it sucking on your finger it is stuck open and causing issues.

Again, I THINK, it's been a few years so please double check that process on your own.
 

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I'm fairly certain it's not my AC. I NEVER use it. Just windows down. I'll watch the needle dip temporarily and hear the tone change. It's pretty obvious to me thanks to the Roush's.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
i have theories at this point, but nothing more unfortunately. My thought is its the torque converter loading and unloading as you're changing gears, but not moving :shrug:







Yes, my wife has a '14 tuned by MPT. I know the tuners have the ability to adjust spark and fuel on a per-cylinder basis. As far as i know however, we are only able to log on a "general," or "overall" basis. Maybe something to look into.







Idle RPMS changing sounds like the AC compressor kicking on and off? The car will raise idle to compensate from the extra load from the compressor.







My wife's car does this as well, as did my dad's '13 explorer. The Explorer actually threw a CEL for an evap solenoid (same one the mustangs use) that's apparently a pretty common failure part. Replaced it on the Explorer for ~$30, but havent gotten around to fixing the mustang yet. I dont want to be the one to tell people to spend money and then be wrong, but check out troubleshooting the purge valve / evap solenoid and see what that looks like. It's super easy to do, literally requires no tools to diagnose.







See above. If i remember correctly, you should be able to unplug the line from the solenoid on the intake manifold (looks like a big T with 2 x 10mm bolts holding it on) and not feel it sucking on your finger. If you feel it sucking on your finger it is stuck open and causing issues.



Again, I THINK, it's been a few years so please double check that process on your own.

Yea lets see what it could be. It's not common but if it becomes common I'll start taking more precaution and action on the issue


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My 2014 manual started doing to same thing around 50k. I removed the throttle body and mass air meter and benched cleaned the tb using the tb and mass air cleaner. This solved my issue. My tb was extremely carboned up on the inside. Just spraying from the outside while still mounted to the car didn't clean the inside well.

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I had my throttle body replaced a few months ago for free, under the Customer Satisfaction Program 16B23. My 2011 automatic did the rpm drop before and after the throttle body replacement. It only does it when I come to a stop sign or a red light. I kind of like the sound it makes and don't worry about it :)
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I had my throttle body replaced a few months ago for free, under the Customer Satisfaction Program 16B23. My 2011 automatic did the rpm drop before and after the throttle body replacement. It only does it when I come to a stop sign or a red light. I kind of like the sound it makes and don't worry about it :)

What scares me the dropping and the stuttering of it like it wants to shut off but apparently it's normal lol. Ford problems


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If you ever get a chance Kristian try to record it. Because they way you described the "stuttering" reminded me how my sixxer was misfiring. Sometimes it would go below 500 rpms and that is when I decided that this was not normal.

But like I said check the plugs and the coil packs when you can on the driver side since its easier to do so. If those three plugs look extremely black or have bad tips then more than likely the passenger side is the same thing.

Check the coil packs for any cracks or any sign of abuse.

They are just plastic and rubber after all so if moisture is getting to them (which I can imagine they are with you living in Florida, Humidity is hell on our cars - i live in Houston....)
 

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Discussion Starter #30
If you ever get a chance Kristian try to record it. Because they way you described the "stuttering" reminded me how my sixxer was misfiring. Sometimes it would go below 500 rpms and that is when I decided that this was not normal.

But like I said check the plugs and the coil packs when you can on the driver side since its easier to do so. If those three plugs look extremely black or have bad tips then more than likely the passenger side is the same thing.

Check the coil packs for any cracks or any sign of abuse.

They are just plastic and rubber after all so if moisture is getting to them (which I can imagine they are with you living in Florida, Humidity is hell on our cars - i live in Houston....)

Yea I'll try but taking videos all the time might be a pain to get it when it does it. Yea the humidity down here is horrible. We'll see what happens


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Discussion Starter #31
If you ever get a chance Kristian try to record it. Because they way you described the "stuttering" reminded me how my sixxer was misfiring. Sometimes it would go below 500 rpms and that is when I decided that this was not normal.

But like I said check the plugs and the coil packs when you can on the driver side since its easier to do so. If those three plugs look extremely black or have bad tips then more than likely the passenger side is the same thing.

Check the coil packs for any cracks or any sign of abuse.

They are just plastic and rubber after all so if moisture is getting to them (which I can imagine they are with you living in Florida, Humidity is hell on our cars - i live in Houston....)

I was able to get a video of it. Doesn't let me upload a video here. I could text it to you if you want send me your number


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Discussion Starter #33
Put on youtube and link here.

Don't have a YouTube account. You can sort of hear the stuttering that the car does. Doesn't drop below 500 RPMs though, just noticed. Happened after a long drive also. Yesterday made the small commute from work to home and nothing.


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how do you not have youtube? if you have a Gmail, you have a YouTube. lol
 

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Reanimating this zombie thread to mention I've started noticing the same thing at 87k miles. I cleaned the throttle body (and MAF sensor) a few days ago and did the idle relearn (plus ~40 miles of easy driving) and the idle head gotten rougher. I'm guessing a new TB is in my future?

I recently replaced the evap solenoid (it was throwing a code) and which inspection of hoses and seals looks OK.
 

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Update. I replaced the throttle body today with a new one ($45 plus shipping from Tasca). Idle is improved; it no longer drops to 400 rpm and almost stalls.

Comparing the old and new TBs off the car, I notice the old one's gearbox was distinctly noisier when operating the throttle plate by hand. No doubt it was starting to wear out.

While I was at it, I also replaced a few $6 PCV system hoses and valves--cheap insurance.

It literally took 30 minutes to replace the TB, so an easy fix for anyone handy with a wrench.
 

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Update. I replaced the throttle body today with a new one ($45 plus shipping from Tasca). Idle is improved; it no longer drops to 400 rpm and almost stalls.

Comparing the old and new TBs off the car, I notice the old one's gearbox was distinctly noisier when operating the throttle plate by hand. No doubt it was starting to wear out.

While I was at it, I also replaced a few $6 PCV system hoses and valves--cheap insurance.

It literally took 30 minutes to replace the TB, so an easy fix for anyone handy with a wrench.
So replacing the TB is the only way to fix it? I’m having the dropping rpm after filling up and also my TB is hanging. When going through a parking lot it self drives at 10+mph. Or is that Normal? I wouldn’t mind 5 mph but 10+ is a little fast.
 

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Update. I replaced the throttle body today with a new one ($45 plus shipping from Tasca). Idle is improved; it no longer drops to 400 rpm and almost stalls.

Comparing the old and new TBs off the car, I notice the old one's gearbox was distinctly noisier when operating the throttle plate by hand. No doubt it was starting to wear out.

While I was at it, I also replaced a few $6 PCV system hoses and valves--cheap insurance.

It literally took 30 minutes to replace the TB, so an easy fix for anyone handy with a wrench.
So replacing the TB is the only way to fix it? I’m having the dropping rpm after filling up and also my TB is hanging. When going through a parking lot it self drives at 10+mph. Or is that Normal? I wouldn’t mind 5 mph but 10+ is a little fast.
Doesn't sound normal. Have you tried cleaning your TB (with battery disconnected) and then doing the idle relearn to see if that helps.
 

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Update. I replaced the throttle body today with a new one ($45 plus shipping from Tasca). Idle is improved; it no longer drops to 400 rpm and almost stalls.

Comparing the old and new TBs off the car, I notice the old one's gearbox was distinctly noisier when operating the throttle plate by hand. No doubt it was starting to wear out.

While I was at it, I also replaced a few $6 PCV system hoses and valves--cheap insurance.

It literally took 30 minutes to replace the TB, so an easy fix for anyone handy with a wrench.
So replacing the TB is the only way to fix it? I’m having the dropping rpm after filling up and also my TB is hanging. When going through a parking lot it self drives at 10+mph. Or is that Normal? I wouldn’t mind 5 mph but 10+ is a little fast.
Doesn't sound normal. Have you tried cleaning your TB (with battery disconnected) and then doing the idle relearn to see if that helps.
I’m going to do that tomorrow along with the MAF.
 

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Start with the easy ones, add a fuel additive: techron is good. And change your gas station. See how it does.
 
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